Replacing Motor Mounts
 

I just bought a set of Tri-Y headers for my '68 convertible. I have P/S, so I also got the P/S adapter to lower the power ram.
The headers installed OK, but the power ram hits the headers even with the adapter.

I called Sacramento Mustang where I bought the headers and they said it was probably my motor mounts. Does this sound right?

Also, my Chilton's doesn't really cover changing the motor mounts. It describes engine removal with pulling the engine with a lift. Is there a good spot to jack the engine up from the bottom? I didn't see any great spots.

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'68 convert, 289, C-4, Edelbrock Performer package, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

I think I jacked mine up slightly at the bell housing with the trans mount still attatched to get the old motor mounts out and the new ones in. Watch your fingers when you do that so if anything should shift.


Rev


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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

You might try a 2x4 under the front of the pan and jack gently, maybe even replacing one at a time and putting the jack towards that side of the motor, that would stabilize things and wouldn't put so much imbalance stress on the trans as lifting the motor by the bellhousing.

hey,

I just installed some tri-y headers and had different problems, even though my car is a 66 w/manual steering. Mine is against the bellhousing, and my clutch linkage was slightly touching it, I think that lead to premature wear on my clutch, it eventually wore it down to the rivets the shop said. I was going to look into it, but not in time i guess. I also had new motor mounts, so i dont know if that could be your problem, or that you'll only get new ones from changing them.

When I did the motor mounts, i had a friend help me out, we did one side at a time, we had one side still bolted to the motor mount and the end getting changed un bolted, from there we jacked the car up from the crank pully, although this didnt sound great i went with it since he works at a shop that specializes in mustang work, we just put a 2x4 in between the crank and jack. The operation went along smoothly and the car runs great so I dont think it damaged anything either.

About the clutch linkage hitting the headers, the shop i took it to but a little dimple into the headers when changing the clutch to fix it.

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Under Construction 66 Coupe
-289 V8 4 barrel Holley 600cfm carb - Headers - Flowmaster 2 1/2 dual exaust

Man, this motor mount change is a pain! One of my old mounts was pretty wiped and the engine was in a bit crooked. I can't seem to get the new mounts to line up. Any great suggestions on this?



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'68 convert, 289, C-4, Edelbrock Performer package, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

After you get the mount bolted to the engine loosen the through bolt on the other side and the trans. mount bolts too. This will give you much more movement of the engine for line up. Lots of patients several large pry bars in the right location and some luck is all it takes.

Gearhead999, thanks for the advice. That did the trick.

The new mounts did not solve my problem with the power ram and I should have thought this through before I started taking my car apart. I think my problem is that I put 1" shorter front coil springs on my car when I did the suspension a few years ago.

I customized the power ram adapter a bit and now it clears the headers, but I'm not happy with where it is now. I hangs down quite a bit. I think the next step is manual steering or R&P.

Anyone done the Total Control R&P swap? I'm wondering if it is bolt-on or a lot of welding.

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'68 convert, 289, C-4, Edelbrock Performer package, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

Come to think of it, I did have to use a pry bar and a little muscle to line up those motor mounts. Glad you got them in.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.