Took the car out for a spin with new mods
 

I started working on my car thursday. Ended saturday but barely got it out today after spending yesterday tuning and aligning it. The things I did were pocket port the heads with gastket matching and removing the smog bump from the heads, Installed a better set of head gaskets for the nitrous, Another oil pump, hardened push rods, sub frame connectors, rebuilt my steering system (box, tie rods, control arms, idler/pitman arm, centerlink, and some chrome (just for show. I should have the new pics anytime now. I love the new feel much more responsive on turns. I have fallen in love with the fastback once more. The car gets up and go's.

Now on to the questions I adjusted the rocker arms the way it said in the book. screw it till it gets hard to turn then 3/4 of a turn. I do have variable duration lifters but they seem to be making more noise than they use to. When it's cold they don't sound only when warm. Is this the way they are going to be? Or do variable duration lifters adjust different. I know they are noise lifters but i do remember they made less noise.

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67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

I personally have never heard of adjusting lifters that way. Then again I don't how variable duration lifters differ than a normal hydraulic lifter. Usually you want to bump the motor to TDC. Rotate it by bumping the starter or with a wrench on the crank bolt until both valves are closed on each cylinder. Tighten the rocker arm until you can't manually spin the pushrod with your fingertips anymore, then turn another 1/2 turn. Or some people say another 1/4 turn.

I've heard anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 turn. I give mine 3/4 and it seems to work well for stock lifters.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

I guess I'm going to leave that way for a while. Someone did mention I could adjust the lifters by turning on the engine with the valve covers off and torque emm till they seem to make less noise. I'm not too sure about this.

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67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

That does work also but it's very messy. I did it that way once on a chevy 350. I think I backed the nut off until it started making noise and then tuned it back in until it stopped and gave it another 1/4 turn or so. It's actually easier that way but very messy. These are hydraulic lifters right?

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1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;

yes, they are hydraulic lifters. Maybe I'll give it a try once I feel like getting dirty.

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67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

It's gonna squirt oil all over the engine bay. I tried that once and that was enough for me.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

You can get those cloths pin looking thingys that fit on the rocker and plug the oil hole so they don't squirt you. Or cut down a set of old stock valve covers with enough room to adjust rockers only. Use to have a set of these years ago, threw them away though, pain in the a--.

I just put in a new 347 and had to adjust the rockers also. My pop told me he always did it with a valve cover cut in half. I took his suggestion a little further. Found a used cover at the salvage yard and used a dremel to cut a rectangular hole down the length of the cover just over where the nuts are located. You can test fit it and open it up wider if needed. This way the oil will just hit the cover and fall back down. Just use some silicone for sealant. Put in on the cover and let it cure so it doesnt leave a mess. Run the car to normal temp. Crank the car and back off the nut till it starts to make noise then tighten up, when it stops turn another 1/4 to 1/2 turn then move on to the next. Might have to do this again after the motor starts to settle in. Mine needed it after retorqing head and etc. I did this with the supercharger in place. Hope it helps.