Converted system to R134 (not that cold)
 

Is there any simple additive or something I can do to help the cooling. Or is there one single thing I might replace that would help cooling.(Compressor, evaporator, condensor etc.) Being that you can buy the freon at the store I don't care if I have to disconnect lines or anything. Thanks for any help guys.

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1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;

How was it doing before you convertd to R134A? What did you replace to make the conversion?

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

I guess I didn't replace anything except for the fittings to fill it with. At the advice of the mechanic at a local shop. It blew nice and cold before and it is still cold now but not as cold. Especially when it's 100 out. It's not a daily driver so I'm not too concerned but if there was a simple replacement to do I would do it. I'm I going to mess anything up by running the R134 in it now.

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1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;

I've heard that you have to drain every last drop of the old oil out of the compressor. Like over night with the compressor upside down and dripping. Then a complete new R134A charge with a new oil charge. I heard this from an AC guy, but he was a house AC guy. I've never done this and so this is second hand info.

Rev

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'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

Dang, that was a fast reply. Well I did have it vacuumed out. But who knows how good that works. I should also add that is is an aftermarket underdash kit with sanden compressor. Anyway, thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll have it all sucked out again and just fill it myself. There is a rather long cruise next weekend for the local chapter mustang club and I wanted to a little cool on the trip. Have a good one REV.

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1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;

By just changing your refrigerant to r134a you will not likely get as cold as r12. The r134a requires a larger evaporator and condenser to opperate as efficently as r12. Check out this web site, lots and lots of good info. Good luck. www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/

Dump that 134 and install AutoFrost. Goes right in, works great, change nothing. Cheaper too.

COnverting a r-12 system to 134-a is hell on the seals and equipment. 134-A runs at a much higher pressure than R-12. This in turn will edventually eat your R-12 componets up. R-12 oil will not mix with 134-a oil. You needed to flush out the old oil out of the system before you vaccumed it. The vaccum is only designed to take out the air only. What i would do it recover the system and open it back up and flush out the compresser, evaporater, condenser, and lines. Their is no great way to do it but brake cleaner and compressed air work fairly well. Then get some PAG oil and find out how much your system takes empty and fill the compressor (unless you have a sealed compressor--has an oil slump) partly and then shoot the rest in with the 134-A. If you have too much oil that will make it stop cooling as well. The oil will coat the evaporater and will not allow the heat exchange. try that and see where that gets you. BUT if i were you...i woudl have just left it R-12. AND dont use that Freeze 12 crap....caused hell at our shop....contaminate's our freon.....

Dan

Woops....i ment that 134-A freon will not mix with the r-12 oil in liquid form....there we go...

David,
besides the condenser needing to be more efficient than the stock unit, one thing most people overlook is that you can cause the air to be hotter when over serviced. R134 needs to be added until the duct temp starts going up, too much is not better.

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69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

Thanks for the advice guys. I've been doing alot of reading and think I will do the autofrost thing and see what happens.

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1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;

I saw on a car show they other day that you can convert to FR12 a whole lot cheaper than the 134 thing. But, you need to find a shop that's equipped properly to do it. Just putting in 134 into an R12 system can ruin expensive parts besides not working well.