Rear Main Seal
 

I have a '68 Mustang with a 289. My problem is that the rear main leaks. All of the repair manuals that I've read say this is a pull the motor fix. Any other options on this?

I've heard from another Mustang owner that you can buy a shim that goes in behind the rear main cap. The idea is that you drop the pan, loosen the main caps then slide the shim into the rear main seal.

Anyone else heard of this?

Diablo,
I have changed a dozen of these seals installed in the car, it's a pain but defintely can be done. If you use the newer rubber style seals it is alot easier to do, I have never heard of this shim, but the technique you mentioned will work for changing the seal.

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69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

Thanks Clark, I guess I just need to get motivated and do it. On the others you've done, do you need to move the bellhousing back to get to the rear main?

You shouldn't have to move bell housing. But, use the lip seal. Knock the pin in on the bearing cap and index the seam of the seal so it doesn't match the seam of the bearing cap to block. Make sure you put the seal it the right way. I have removed way to many installed backward. Also, it is good insurance to replace the rear main bearing, upper and lower, at the same time. This keeps the crank from moving around from wear that can cause the new seal to fail premature.

Not a hard job on a Mustang. Just very messy. Also, good time to check the oil pump and screen, maybe upgrade. Keep everything very clean and scrap the gaskets good. Glue the new gaskets and end pieces to the block and put alittle, and I say again LITTLE, RTV at the joint where the end rubbers meet the cork gasket. If you put to much it can squeeze into the oil pan and clog the oil pump screen. Not a good thing to have happen.

Thanks Gearhead, Diablo these are words of experience between the two of us.

Thanks Guys. This helps alot! I think I have a good idea of what I'm getting into now. And, I like this much better that pulling the motor.