Major problem, please read!!

RPM427 · 10-01-2002, 11:36 AM

I have a big problem right now. The set of headers I have on my car came with the car when I bought it. That was the only mod on the car at the time. I am not sure who makes them but they are cuasing big problems.

Right where the clutch cable enters the bell housing, the header comes in contact to the cable. There is a little step welded onto the header to heat disapate heat transfer but it doesn't work. The problem is that the header heats up the clutch cable and melts the inside liner and outside coating. The original clutch cable lasted for at least 3 months but I have gone through three in a week since I replaced it. I first tried using some heat shielding (kevlar with tin or aluminum coating) but since it is touching the header, it starts to smoke. I have now wrapped 3 layers of it around the cable and tied it back away from the header as good as I can. It does touch the header when I depress the pedal and now it is starting to go again. I can barely drive it now. At least this one lasted 3 weeks.

Has anyone ever had this problem before? What can I use to block ALL heat transfer? OR Better yet, does anyone make a cable that is all metal? with no plastic/teflon liner? Can I do surgery to a new cable? I really need help here.

joe4speed · 10-01-2002, 02:37 PM

My best friend had that problem with his Stang with Longtubes. He wound up wrapping header wrap around that portion of the clutch cable. He used to replace the cable like once every three months, now he hasn't had to touch it in a year. Works great, but doesnt look that great.

RPM427 · 10-01-2002, 11:38 PM

Will the header wrap stop the heat transfer? Is the cable accually touching the header? or just close to it? Can you find out for me?

joe4speed · 10-01-2002, 11:41 PM

The cable has not melted since he put it on, and it wasn't touching it was just close.
I'll e-mail this thread to him.

RPM427 · 10-02-2002, 10:34 PM

OK, I gave what you suggested a try. I hope it will last the weekend. I drove it all around today and so far it still feels great. I wrapped it in 3 layers of heat shielding, then a layer of fiberglass matt, and then a layer of header wrap. I think that will do the trick. I got it on the lift this morning and could not see anywhere to weld a bracket to. I hope the wrap will protect it.

gofastmercury · 10-02-2002, 11:37 PM

This only happened to me once so far, and I had the car for about 3 years. If you insulate the cable, you tend to keep the heat in the cable, you have to defect it before it gets there. The spacer on the header tube is the right idea, just not big enough. A air gap between the pipe and the heat shield is whats needed. Look at the heat shield for a cat. and you'll see what I mean.

Thad · 01-10-2003, 11:16 PM

Hey RPM427, this is joes friend that he said he would e-mail about your problem. I had exactly the same problem and i think i went through about 6 or 7 cables before figuring out what to do. i marked the area where the header was touching the cable and put a real thick layer of high temp rtv sealer. with the sealer still wet started wrapping it with that header wrap(2" wide). I wrapped it tight and worked the sealer into it by squeezing and adding more sealer between layers. i did about a 10" section right at the contact area and built it up to at least a 1/4 in. or more all around. It's pretty messy to do but i haven't replaced the cable for over 2 yrs.
I actually had the wrap around the header itself but that rotted off inabout a year, so it should be fine without it.
I couldn't tell you what kind of headers they are either but they're definately getting replaced.
Good luck!
thad

crazypete · 01-11-2003, 12:37 PM

Wouldnt it be much easier to just break off the supports that hold the clutch cable to the enginebay wall and change the geometry of the cable manually then ziptie it to something that will hold it away from the tubes?

This is what I did when it was touching the equal length mac's

JaxTheDJ · 01-11-2003, 01:52 PM

Here's a permanent solution: Take the car to a muffler shop and ask them to disconnect the pipe from the header,then use a large pry bar a do a small bend to the side,we did this with mine when I had long tubes and it worked great,you just have to take your time.You wouldnt beleive how many muffler techs actually bend headers collectively to make connections in different types of cars,my bud I race with does this all the time,he owns a muffler shop and I FREAKED when he did mine till he explained that this is normal proceedure.LOL give it a try.

sn95gt19 · 01-11-2003, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by crazypete
Wouldnt it be much easier to just break off the supports that hold the clutch cable to the enginebay wall and change the geometry of the cable manually then ziptie it to something that will hold it away from the tubes?

This is what I did when it was touching the equal length mac's

this sounds like the most logical solution

Thad · 01-12-2003, 09:04 AM

Can they move the pipes 2", because thats how far mine would have to move to get from in front of the cable flange. it almost seems like the headers are the wrong ones for the motor.

10-01-2002, 11:36 AM	#1
RPM427 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Huntington NY Posts: 573	Major problem, please read!! I have a big problem right now. The set of headers I have on my car came with the car when I bought it. That was the only mod on the car at the time. I am not sure who makes them but they are cuasing big problems. Right where the clutch cable enters the bell housing, the header comes in contact to the cable. There is a little step welded onto the header to heat disapate heat transfer but it doesn't work. The problem is that the header heats up the clutch cable and melts the inside liner and outside coating. The original clutch cable lasted for at least 3 months but I have gone through three in a week since I replaced it. I first tried using some heat shielding (kevlar with tin or aluminum coating) but since it is touching the header, it starts to smoke. I have now wrapped 3 layers of it around the cable and tied it back away from the header as good as I can. It does touch the header when I depress the pedal and now it is starting to go again. I can barely drive it now. At least this one lasted 3 weeks. Has anyone ever had this problem before? What can I use to block ALL heat transfer? OR Better yet, does anyone make a cable that is all metal? with no plastic/teflon liner? Can I do surgery to a new cable? I really need help here. __________________ -1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out!

10-01-2002, 02:37 PM	#2
joe4speed He said Member...heh, heh Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A. Posts: 3,718	My best friend had that problem with his Stang with Longtubes. He wound up wrapping header wrap around that portion of the clutch cable. He used to replace the cable like once every three months, now he hasn't had to touch it in a year. Works great, but doesnt look that great. __________________ *Joe!* 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com

10-01-2002, 11:38 PM	#3
RPM427 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Huntington NY Posts: 573	Will the header wrap stop the heat transfer? Is the cable accually touching the header? or just close to it? Can you find out for me? __________________ -1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out!

10-01-2002, 11:41 PM	#4
joe4speed He said Member...heh, heh Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A. Posts: 3,718	The cable has not melted since he put it on, and it wasn't touching it was just close. I'll e-mail this thread to him. __________________ *Joe!* 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com

10-02-2002, 10:34 PM	#5
RPM427 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Huntington NY Posts: 573	OK, I gave what you suggested a try. I hope it will last the weekend. I drove it all around today and so far it still feels great. I wrapped it in 3 layers of heat shielding, then a layer of fiberglass matt, and then a layer of header wrap. I think that will do the trick. I got it on the lift this morning and could not see anywhere to weld a bracket to. I hope the wrap will protect it. __________________ -1993 Mustang, 900rwhp 03-04 cobra based 4v swap, full Griggs setup, project underway -1994 Ranger w/ 427cid windsor (daily beater) check it out!

10-02-2002, 11:37 PM	#6
gofastmercury Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: calgary alberta canada Posts: 366	This only happened to me once so far, and I had the car for about 3 years. If you insulate the cable, you tend to keep the heat in the cable, you have to defect it before it gets there. The spacer on the header tube is the right idea, just not big enough. A air gap between the pipe and the heat shield is whats needed. Look at the heat shield for a cat. and you'll see what I mean. __________________ 93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires. my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250 NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft corrects to:13.86@100 66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver 12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft corrects to:11.69@115

01-10-2003, 11:16 PM	#7
Thad Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Stuart, FL US Posts: 192	Hey RPM427, this is joes friend that he said he would e-mail about your problem. I had exactly the same problem and i think i went through about 6 or 7 cables before figuring out what to do. i marked the area where the header was touching the cable and put a real thick layer of high temp rtv sealer. with the sealer still wet started wrapping it with that header wrap(2" wide). I wrapped it tight and worked the sealer into it by squeezing and adding more sealer between layers. i did about a 10" section right at the contact area and built it up to at least a 1/4 in. or more all around. It's pretty messy to do but i haven't replaced the cable for over 2 yrs. I actually had the wrap around the header itself but that rotted off inabout a year, so it should be fine without it. I couldn't tell you what kind of headers they are either but they're definately getting replaced. Good luck! thad __________________ 90 LX 5.0 ,bored 302, MSD 6AL, Twisted Wedge TrickFlo HDs, World class T5, BBK fender cold air induct., 70mm TB,Edelbrock performer Intake, aluminum Drve shaft, 3.55 Gears, Long Tube Headers to Flowmasters.

01-11-2003, 12:37 PM	#8
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	Wouldnt it be much easier to just break off the supports that hold the clutch cable to the enginebay wall and change the geometry of the cable manually then ziptie it to something that will hold it away from the tubes? This is what I did when it was touching the equal length mac's __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

01-11-2003, 01:52 PM	#9
JaxTheDJ Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Jacksonville,Fla. Posts: 134	Here's a permanent solution: Take the car to a muffler shop and ask them to disconnect the pipe from the header,then use a large pry bar a do a small bend to the side,we did this with mine when I had long tubes and it worked great,you just have to take your time.You wouldnt beleive how many muffler techs actually bend headers collectively to make connections in different types of cars,my bud I race with does this all the time,he owns a muffler shop and I FREAKED when he did mine till he explained that this is normal proceedure.LOL give it a try. __________________ Jack 1989 Mustang LX: Converted to Carb.650 AED Holley DP,Weiand Stealth Intake,Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum Heads,Hooker Super Comps, Ground Pounder Uppers and Lowers,Moroso Drag Springs,NEW COMP Xtreme Energy Cam and 1.6 RR. ,a few other goodies.*** New 1/4 times-12.50 1987 SC GT ( fast as hell) 2001 Powerstroke Tow Vehicle 1989 Coupe. Sometimes when you cry,no one sees your tears.......... Sometimes when you are happy,no one sees your smile......... But,FART just ONE time..........

01-12-2003, 09:04 AM	#11
Thad Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Stuart, FL US Posts: 192	Can they move the pipes 2", because thats how far mine would have to move to get from in front of the cable flange. it almost seems like the headers are the wrong ones for the motor. __________________ 90 LX 5.0 ,bored 302, MSD 6AL, Twisted Wedge TrickFlo HDs, World class T5, BBK fender cold air induct., 70mm TB,Edelbrock performer Intake, aluminum Drve shaft, 3.55 Gears, Long Tube Headers to Flowmasters.

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