Shouldn't it run faster?
 

Is any one here running there 65 stang at the strip? I have a 65 stang with a 306 making about 350 horses. It traps at 107 mph at 3000ft altitude. However the only E.T. I can muster is 13.50. I think it should be in the 12's. My 60' is 2.01 with 26x9" MT slicks. I'm running a 9 inch converter that flashes about 3300RPMS. 90/10 and 50/50 shocks. Stock front and rear springs. I have no roll bar and no subframes. Sometimes it seems like it hooks and sometimes it fishtails. I have 4;10 gears w/spool. What do you guys think and where should the money go next? The car is full weight and I would prefer not to gut it. Engine specs- 306, 12.3:1 CR, 351W ported heads 190-160, solid cam 560 lift 248@.050, Victor jr, 600cfm mechanical, heddman hedders, two chamber flows, C-4 9inch converter, Mallory ignt, holley blue 7psi

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92 GT, 4:10 gears, centerforce clutch, 6# powerdyne blower, bbk h-pipe, flowmasters

107mph should get you easy 12's if you can get that 60ft under 2 seconds

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67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Carter 750 CFM, Comp. Cam 477/510 219/233@.050, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

I would definitely install the subframe connectors. My 65 Coupe ran better once the chassis was stiffened up. I also ran a 750 Edelbrock (mainly a street driver). Might think about a bit larger carb. On a 150 HP shot the 65 went a best of 12.04 on 9 inch slicks with a T5...really squirly once in a while. Almost planted it into the wall several times. Lesson learned? Don't get back in it, once you start to go squirly.

I would stiffen up your chassis. If you still have leaf springs and no GOOD traction device thats part of tour problem. I have an 88 gt and I gained a full second just by puting in subframe conectors and a cage. Before I used to pull one wheel off the ground and now I pull both. You are losing alot of power in chassis flex. I'm building a 66 coupe at this time and its getting sub frame conectors, cage, and ladder bar rear suspension. I hope this helps.
JAY

Thanks for your info guys. I really did want subframes and roll bar but didn't know if it helped the E.T. that much. Hey Ron, what size engine are you running because I felt my combo was undercarbureted? Also, what do you guys think of steel motor mounts?

Once I installed the X-cage subframe connectors, custom adjustable traction bars mounted in Shelby locations, and 4pt roll bar I can jack up one wheel and that whole side of the car comes off the ground. I also run a 700cfm DP and low rise single plane in my street engine and it is a little sluggish at low rpm with .500 lift 225* cam. Steel mounts will make you hate driving on street ever again, torque strap may be the best thing for you, it is adjustable to how you are driving.



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65 Mustang fastback
347 DFI injected, TFS, too much to say
Just about everything custom

I never drive it on the street. I'd like to turn it into a full strip car with nice interior. Do you think the motor mounts are still better or the torque strap? Thanks for the reply?

smokedchevy...the Coupe had a .030 over 302 (306). TFS heads installed out of the box, dual plane intake, MSD 6AL, 1.72 roller rockers, and a fairly mild but a bit lumpy street cam. Drove it to the track, mounted the slicks, raced it all day and drove it home. The 750 always felt right and never gave me one bit of trouble. Nice combination carb.

Ron

Have the combination and cam specs on my site at www.rfedd.bigstep.com Just click on the 65 Coupe.



[This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 06-30-2001).]

Thanks Ron, every one around here told me a 750 would bog my engine so I listened to them. I'm going to try a 750, I bet there's a lot of power in it with a bigger carb!