Carb and distributor questions...help

Frankenstang65 · 03-03-2002, 12:16 AM

Ok...so here's the deal. I've been having a lot of trouble with my holley for quite some time, and even more so in the last few days. Yesterday my car doesn't start in the morning and end up being late for school. So last night I decide, "this is it...I'm gonna rebuild this P.O.S. once and for all". I take it all apart, clean it up, and put in all the new stuff from the kit. I put it on the car this morning and expect it to fire up without too many troubles. It just turns over and over and over, and no cumbustion takes place at all. I look under the open hood as i'm pumping it and see gas belch out of the vent tubes. I adjusted the float level several times but it still seemed to flood as soon as the fuel pump started giving it any pressure.
So, while I'm waiting for some of the gas to evaporate off the intake manifold, I pull the distubuter cap and check the points. I want to check if they are opening and closing ok, so I have a friend turn it over a couple of times (also looking for leakage of the carb ) and I notice that as the engine turns over, the rotor stays stuck in place. I turned it over many times..every once in awhile it would jiggle, but not much.

So here are my questions relating to this story:
Carb: Which way do I turn the float adjusting valve to lower the level of the float? Is it possible that I put the power valve in backwards? Any other ideas why it would be flooding?

Distributor: Do I need a new one? What would break to cause this to happen? Is there a possibilty of damage to the gear on the cam as a relsult? Any other ideas?

Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks a lot!!

73 Mustang Boy · 03-03-2002, 10:33 AM

I realy hate to be the bearer of bad news but the same thing happened to me about a year ago. car just stopped and wouldn't crank because the rotor was not turnning. I pulled the dist. out and found out that the shear pin that holds the gear on had broken. I thought simple and went to the patrs store and picked up a new gear and pin. When I put them on and tried to crank the car, it did the same thing again. Thats when I thought about the oil pump beeing locked up, it was. to change the oil pump you have to pick the engine up out of the car about 4 in. Once I got all that back together I cranked the car and it was making an awfull ticking noise from the dist. Thats when I figuured out that the gear on the cam had about 3 teeth broken off of it. So I had to order a new cam, wait for it to get there, then change it. I realy hope your case isn't as serious as mine but if it is at least you know to go ahead and change everything at once. Also rember that you can just buy the new gear and pin for the dist. dont waste $60 on a new dist if you can just spend 15 on the new gear. I hope I could help a little.

Gearhead999 · 03-03-2002, 12:18 PM

You shouldn't have fuel coming out of the vents.

Sounds like the float is set too high or the needle and seat is stuck.

Open the sight holes and adjust the float level.

The nut on the needle and seat is the adjuster. The screw is the lock. If I remember correctly you turn the the nut clockwise to raise the fuel level.

What is the fuel pump pressure?? If it is too high it will pump right through the carb.

More important tough is. Why isn't it starting?? Does it have spark?? First you have to check that too. Pull plug wire, either hold close to metal on block or install a spark plug and touch it to the block. Turn the engine over and see if you have spark. If not...start there. Check what Frankenstang65 says about the dist. turning first. If it turns, then check the points, cond, rotor, cap and coil. Once you have spark. Then go after the fuel problem.

You ask if you installed the powervalve backward???? It only screws in the metering block one way and the part you turn with a wrench goes toward the throttle body. That is what that large cavity is there for. I don't think the metering block can be installed backwards though. I could be wrong.

Let us know how you make out.

Frankenstang65 · 03-04-2002, 02:45 AM

Thanks for the fast replies.
I pulled the distributor out and noticed, as 73 mustang boy indicated, that the pin that hold the gear on had broken loose. The distributor is in sad shape anyways so I'm just going to replace it with a Mallory unit. Is there any way that I can check to see if the oil pump is seized up? Oh man, that would not be good!! The gear on the cam is fine, and I don't want to put a brand new distributor in there and end up shaving off some teeth in the event that it is indeed stuck.
Gearhead...I didn't take a close look at the power valve/ metering block when I put it in, so I wasn't sure if it could have gone both ways. The metering block only goes one way and everything else is ok, so I'll assume that it is a problem with the floats. They are definatley too high, but I just wasn't sure which way to turn the needle valve, I'll see if counterclockwise (per your advice) will do the trick. The needle valves are brand new, so I don't think they're sticking. Thanks.

73 Mustang Boy · 03-04-2002, 08:50 AM

If you have one of those oil priming tools that connects to a dril and sticks where the dist does you could check to see if the oil pump is locked up. If you dont I would call the local parts store tho see if you could rent one from them. Be sure to have someone turn the motor by hand while you look down the dist. hole and amke sure the cam teeth are OK.

Frankenstang65 · 03-05-2002, 01:13 AM

Since I'm going to replace the distributor anyways, I just took it apart and put a drill on the top end of the shaft to spin the pump. It seemed to go around ok...and just to make sure I turned the ignition on and checked to make sure I had oil pressure at the gauge. I did, so it seems that this will not be a problem. I was able to adjust the floats so the carb stopped flooding, so everything seems to be in order there as well. I've got some questions about the ignition system I'm planning on putting in, but I'll post those in a seperate thread.

Thanks for the help!

Dark Knight · 03-05-2002, 01:09 PM

as a side note.. sometimes a piece of dirt will get stuck in the needle valve and hold it open...and casue it to flood too...

David Fulford · 03-07-2002, 07:36 PM

One more note.....clockwise to lower the float level and counterclockwise to raise the float level.

03-03-2002, 12:16 AM	#1
Frankenstang65 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 79	Carb and distributor questions...help Ok...so here's the deal. I've been having a lot of trouble with my holley for quite some time, and even more so in the last few days. Yesterday my car doesn't start in the morning and end up being late for school. So last night I decide, "this is it...I'm gonna rebuild this P.O.S. once and for all". I take it all apart, clean it up, and put in all the new stuff from the kit. I put it on the car this morning and expect it to fire up without too many troubles. It just turns over and over and over, and no cumbustion takes place at all. I look under the open hood as i'm pumping it and see gas belch out of the vent tubes. I adjusted the float level several times but it still seemed to flood as soon as the fuel pump started giving it any pressure. So, while I'm waiting for some of the gas to evaporate off the intake manifold, I pull the distubuter cap and check the points. I want to check if they are opening and closing ok, so I have a friend turn it over a couple of times (also looking for leakage of the carb ) and I notice that as the engine turns over, the rotor stays stuck in place. I turned it over many times..every once in awhile it would jiggle, but not much. So here are my questions relating to this story: Carb: Which way do I turn the float adjusting valve to lower the level of the float? Is it possible that I put the power valve in backwards? Any other ideas why it would be flooding? Distributor: Do I need a new one? What would break to cause this to happen? Is there a possibilty of damage to the gear on the cam as a relsult? Any other ideas? Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks a lot!! __________________ 1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back

03-03-2002, 10:33 AM	#2
73 Mustang Boy Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Georgia Posts: 84	I realy hate to be the bearer of bad news but the same thing happened to me about a year ago. car just stopped and wouldn't crank because the rotor was not turnning. I pulled the dist. out and found out that the shear pin that holds the gear on had broken. I thought simple and went to the patrs store and picked up a new gear and pin. When I put them on and tried to crank the car, it did the same thing again. Thats when I thought about the oil pump beeing locked up, it was. to change the oil pump you have to pick the engine up out of the car about 4 in. Once I got all that back together I cranked the car and it was making an awfull ticking noise from the dist. Thats when I figuured out that the gear on the cam had about 3 teeth broken off of it. So I had to order a new cam, wait for it to get there, then change it. I realy hope your case isn't as serious as mine but if it is at least you know to go ahead and change everything at once. Also rember that you can just buy the new gear and pin for the dist. dont waste $60 on a new dist if you can just spend 15 on the new gear. I hope I could help a little. __________________ 73 coupe, 351W, GT-40 heads, edlebrock 750, offenhauser intake, .488 lift cam, 2.5 exhaust, 2 chamber flowmasters, blah, blah, blah...

03-03-2002, 12:18 PM	#3
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	You shouldn't have fuel coming out of the vents. Sounds like the float is set too high or the needle and seat is stuck. Open the sight holes and adjust the float level. The nut on the needle and seat is the adjuster. The screw is the lock. If I remember correctly you turn the the nut clockwise to raise the fuel level. What is the fuel pump pressure?? If it is too high it will pump right through the carb. More important tough is. Why isn't it starting?? Does it have spark?? First you have to check that too. Pull plug wire, either hold close to metal on block or install a spark plug and touch it to the block. Turn the engine over and see if you have spark. If not...start there. Check what Frankenstang65 says about the dist. turning first. If it turns, then check the points, cond, rotor, cap and coil. Once you have spark. Then go after the fuel problem. You ask if you installed the powervalve backward???? It only screws in the metering block one way and the part you turn with a wrench goes toward the throttle body. That is what that large cavity is there for. I don't think the metering block can be installed backwards though. I could be wrong. Let us know how you make out. __________________ "Support our Troops" Dave 1968 Cougar 2004 Thunderbird 2007 F150 Harley-Davidson, SuperCrew 1986 LTD 1997 Ranger 1992 Honda Civic

03-04-2002, 02:45 AM	#4
Frankenstang65 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 79	Thanks for the fast replies. I pulled the distributor out and noticed, as 73 mustang boy indicated, that the pin that hold the gear on had broken loose. The distributor is in sad shape anyways so I'm just going to replace it with a Mallory unit. Is there any way that I can check to see if the oil pump is seized up? Oh man, that would not be good!! The gear on the cam is fine, and I don't want to put a brand new distributor in there and end up shaving off some teeth in the event that it is indeed stuck. Gearhead...I didn't take a close look at the power valve/ metering block when I put it in, so I wasn't sure if it could have gone both ways. The metering block only goes one way and everything else is ok, so I'll assume that it is a problem with the floats. They are definatley too high, but I just wasn't sure which way to turn the needle valve, I'll see if counterclockwise (per your advice) will do the trick. The needle valves are brand new, so I don't think they're sticking. Thanks. __________________ 1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back

03-04-2002, 08:50 AM	#5
73 Mustang Boy Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Georgia Posts: 84	If you have one of those oil priming tools that connects to a dril and sticks where the dist does you could check to see if the oil pump is locked up. If you dont I would call the local parts store tho see if you could rent one from them. Be sure to have someone turn the motor by hand while you look down the dist. hole and amke sure the cam teeth are OK. __________________ 73 coupe, 351W, GT-40 heads, edlebrock 750, offenhauser intake, .488 lift cam, 2.5 exhaust, 2 chamber flowmasters, blah, blah, blah...

03-05-2002, 01:13 AM	#6
Frankenstang65 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 79	Since I'm going to replace the distributor anyways, I just took it apart and put a drill on the top end of the shaft to spin the pump. It seemed to go around ok...and just to make sure I turned the ignition on and checked to make sure I had oil pressure at the gauge. I did, so it seems that this will not be a problem. I was able to adjust the floats so the carb stopped flooding, so everything seems to be in order there as well. I've got some questions about the ignition system I'm planning on putting in, but I'll post those in a seperate thread. Thanks for the help! __________________ 1965 Coupe: 351W, comp cam, Aluminum Systemax II heads (2.02/1.60), 1.7 Cobra full roller rockers, Edelbrock intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Mallory Unilite, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD heli-core plug wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" exhaust (GT style) w/ 40 series delta flows, 69 C4 w/ shift kit, shelby traction bars, 3.55:1 rear Daily Driver: 1989 GT- 5spd, K&N (no silencer), Shorty Headers, King Cobra Clutch, Flowmaster Force II Cat-back

03-05-2002, 01:09 PM	#7
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	as a side note.. sometimes a piece of dirt will get stuck in the needle valve and hold it open...and casue it to flood too... __________________ 84 convt,roller 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives BBK shorties stock cam, 1.7's 13.58@102.84 and a '68 stang .. project 8 sec street car... 557 big block + N20 :-) http://members.cox.net/darkknight302/68nwrear.jpg

03-07-2002, 07:36 PM	#8
David Fulford Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Charlotte NC Posts: 193	One more note.....clockwise to lower the float level and counterclockwise to raise the float level. __________________ 1969 fast back; yellow; weld wheels; 302 roller with GT-40 heads; 3:55 gears; 5spd T-5; MSD 6AL; E-303; flows; Hedman headers; Holley 600;Weiand Accelerator;1.6 rockers

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