Starting the tear down

KrivoK · 04-21-2003, 10:35 AM

Happy to report that the pulling of the 289 out of my 66stang was very easy. Now I believe the hard part is coming up. Just wanted to know if anyone has any pointers that might help me out. I currently have the engine mounted to an engine stand. Is there anything certain order I should go in to make sure I don't mess anything up? ANY SUGGESTIONS would greatly be appreciated.

I'm not looking to make this car into the racer that I read about on this board. Just wanting to have that nice looking/running 66stang that turns heads everywhere I go.

I will have to say that this is by far the biggest "project" I have ever taken on without really knowing what I am doing. I also know the reward is grand.

matt1190 · 04-21-2003, 11:12 AM

well, when you're not working on it, cover all the parts to avoid dust, rust, etc. Use zip loc bags and permanent markers to categorize your bolts and such. Remember that its recommended that you keep all of the valavetrain parts in order upon removal. Good luck! wish it was my project!

fordkid68 · 04-21-2003, 03:42 PM

yes as said before zip lock bags help greatly. I am in the midle of tearing down my engine and painting my stang and those bags have helped alot. I would be lost with out them.

other then that just take it slow and have fun.

ford kid

KrivoK · 04-22-2003, 07:20 AM

I guess Ziplock bags are the way to go. I have already started to use them. Thank you. I do have a Haynes book. I guess I will just follow that until someone else say's differently.

Has anyone used the engine paint that you can buy at AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts and stores like that? Just curious if that paint (in cans) will hold up to the heat it say's it will. Would hate to take the time to clean everything up and paint it just to look good on the engine stand and not look good a year from now after the heat gets to it.

fordkid68 · 04-23-2003, 07:29 PM

well I am preaty sure the engine paint at auto zone is the same at kragens. what I do is go to orcherd and buy the 1200 degree primer.(in A can) then get the 500 degree paint from kragens. it works great. I put it on my 200 inline about 6 months ago and it still looks good. and I am going to put it on the 260 I am building.

I have heard good things about the Haynes book. however I haven't used one. I just have A chiltens book. it works good on some things and other things not so good.

ford kid

rbohm · 04-24-2003, 04:07 AM

first as stated use zip lock bags to put all the small parts in and lable each with what is in the bag. second take pictures of each step so you can look back and see what went where. i would highly recomend that you ultimately pitch all the bolts that you remove and replace them with new ones from arp. they have complete bolt sets for the sb ford in black oxide or stainless steel. i have the black oxide set with 12 point heads myself. if you dont wantt o replace all the bolts, at least replace the head and main cap bolts. i recomend main cap studs instead of bolt as i feel they work better. i am going to use main cap studs, again from arp. take close up pictures, use high quality film or a very high quality digital camera, the film is better, of high wear parts like the pistons and the cylinder bores. take these pics and the bearing to an engine builder and get his opinion on what needs to be done. realize that he wont be able to tell everything from the pics alone, but it will give him an idea of what is going on in your engine.

hobgoblin351 · 04-24-2003, 12:00 PM

You got good advice already but here's my 2cents. I dont know how wild you want to go, or how stock you want to keep it. Or how much money your spending. If you're just freshing up the block kepp those bags handy(freezer bags easier to write on) If you're boreing the block, have it honed and decked while it's there. Those old blocks are usually off by quite a bit. The ARP bolts are the way to go. Things start to get pricey, so depending on how big a cam you're going to run you can save some $$$ Ir it's something mild like a Crane fireball, Comp Cam 270* advertised. for example you wont need the strongest pushrods money can buy, or Titanium vavles. Go with ARP rod(not the Nascar wave locs), head bolts and Main studs. You probably wont need the ARP stuff for the accessories. The difference between high performance and rall out race stuff might only be $25 or $50 but it starts to add up. Spend the money now on the Machine work, block/heads, and in the short block. You can always add high rise manifolds and big carbs later when you get more $$$. Good luck

KrivoK · 04-24-2003, 01:03 PM

This is my first "project car". I want to keep it as stock as possible. I think this is a good engine to learn on. It ran when I took it out. I want to "freshen it up". Rings, bearings and what not. Maybe the next one I will go for all out!!! I think if I was going for a racer, I think I would want to start with something a little bigger than the 289. Anyway, thanks for the advice everyone. Anyone else that would have any more I would greatly appreciate it. I learn something new everytime I read these threads.

04-21-2003, 10:35 AM	#1
KrivoK Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 41	Starting the tear down Happy to report that the pulling of the 289 out of my 66stang was very easy. Now I believe the hard part is coming up. Just wanted to know if anyone has any pointers that might help me out. I currently have the engine mounted to an engine stand. Is there anything certain order I should go in to make sure I don't mess anything up? ANY SUGGESTIONS would greatly be appreciated. I'm not looking to make this car into the racer that I read about on this board. Just wanting to have that nice looking/running 66stang that turns heads everywhere I go. I will have to say that this is by far the biggest "project" I have ever taken on without really knowing what I am doing. I also know the reward is grand.

04-21-2003, 11:12 AM	#2
matt1190 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 66	well, when you're not working on it, cover all the parts to avoid dust, rust, etc. Use zip loc bags and permanent markers to categorize your bolts and such. Remember that its recommended that you keep all of the valavetrain parts in order upon removal. Good luck! wish it was my project! __________________ 66 coupe: 351W 30 over. Fiberglass shelby parts + flares

04-22-2003, 07:20 AM	#4
KrivoK Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 41	I guess Ziplock bags are the way to go. I have already started to use them. Thank you. I do have a Haynes book. I guess I will just follow that until someone else say's differently. Has anyone used the engine paint that you can buy at AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts and stores like that? Just curious if that paint (in cans) will hold up to the heat it say's it will. Would hate to take the time to clean everything up and paint it just to look good on the engine stand and not look good a year from now after the heat gets to it. __________________ 66 Coupe Project, 289-C4

04-24-2003, 04:07 AM	#6
rbohm Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: tucson,az/luray,va Posts: 243	first as stated use zip lock bags to put all the small parts in and lable each with what is in the bag. second take pictures of each step so you can look back and see what went where. i would highly recomend that you ultimately pitch all the bolts that you remove and replace them with new ones from arp. they have complete bolt sets for the sb ford in black oxide or stainless steel. i have the black oxide set with 12 point heads myself. if you dont wantt o replace all the bolts, at least replace the head and main cap bolts. i recomend main cap studs instead of bolt as i feel they work better. i am going to use main cap studs, again from arp. take close up pictures, use high quality film or a very high quality digital camera, the film is better, of high wear parts like the pistons and the cylinder bores. take these pics and the bearing to an engine builder and get his opinion on what needs to be done. realize that he wont be able to tell everything from the pics alone, but it will give him an idea of what is going on in your engine. __________________ define irony: a bunch of idiots on a plane, dancing to a song made famous, by a band who died in a plane crash. fordsix.com admin

04-24-2003, 12:00 PM	#7
hobgoblin351 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 245	You got good advice already but here's my 2cents. I dont know how wild you want to go, or how stock you want to keep it. Or how much money your spending. If you're just freshing up the block kepp those bags handy(freezer bags easier to write on) If you're boreing the block, have it honed and decked while it's there. Those old blocks are usually off by quite a bit. The ARP bolts are the way to go. Things start to get pricey, so depending on how big a cam you're going to run you can save some $$$ Ir it's something mild like a Crane fireball, Comp Cam 270* advertised. for example you wont need the strongest pushrods money can buy, or Titanium vavles. Go with ARP rod(not the Nascar wave locs), head bolts and Main studs. You probably wont need the ARP stuff for the accessories. The difference between high performance and rall out race stuff might only be $25 or $50 but it starts to add up. Spend the money now on the Machine work, block/heads, and in the short block. You can always add high rise manifolds and big carbs later when you get more $$$. Good luck __________________ 1970 Stang Conv: en:Boss351 (balanced/blueprinted) mech cam(240*@.050/.540 lift) Scrw in studs/comp cams rllr rkr Mldn valves 2.19in 1.71ex ported polished cc'd hrdnd ex Keith Black FT pistons(10.25/1) Weiand Excellorator manifold Holley700 DP mech 2nds MSD 6 box and Dis Headers/2 1/2 inch duels tr: modified FMX re:9-inch/3.89 limited slip

04-21-2003, 03:42 PM	#3
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	yes as said before zip lock bags help greatly. I am in the midle of tearing down my engine and painting my stang and those bags have helped alot. I would be lost with out them. other then that just take it slow and have fun. ford kid

04-23-2003, 07:29 PM	#5
fordkid68 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: fremont Posts: 306	well I am preaty sure the engine paint at auto zone is the same at kragens. what I do is go to orcherd and buy the 1200 degree primer.(in A can) then get the 500 degree paint from kragens. it works great. I put it on my 200 inline about 6 months ago and it still looks good. and I am going to put it on the 260 I am building. I have heard good things about the Haynes book. however I haven't used one. I just have A chiltens book. it works good on some things and other things not so good. ford kid

04-24-2003, 01:03 PM	#8
KrivoK Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 41	This is my first "project car". I want to keep it as stock as possible. I think this is a good engine to learn on. It ran when I took it out. I want to "freshen it up". Rings, bearings and what not. Maybe the next one I will go for all out!!! I think if I was going for a racer, I think I would want to start with something a little bigger than the 289. Anyway, thanks for the advice everyone. Anyone else that would have any more I would greatly appreciate it. I learn something new everytime I read these threads. __________________ 66 Coupe Project, 289-C4

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
hard starting	JMG	Small Ponies	2	01-22-2006 12:09 PM
grr...starting problems..any ideas?	Frankenstang65	Classic Mustangs	16	07-07-2003 09:50 AM
Please Help !! Engine Starting Problem	Jayskee	Windsor Power	1	07-23-2002 06:08 PM
starting problems	92Convertible	Windsor Power	1	03-10-2002 06:22 PM
Good night at the track, but idiots wet down starting line	Rev	Stang Stories	7	02-11-2001 06:39 PM