Just bought a 68

[gbeals]

Well I finally made the purchase I've been waiting for.

Just got a 1968 Mustang Coupe with a 351W. 2 weeks on the rebuilt engine - No rust anywhere on car. Pretty pumped about it too.. I pick it up tomorrow afternoon.

I know next to nothing on these 351W engines... Any help would be great. Im sure it is a stock engine with a 2 carb on it. I will be going to the 4.

Well this is my 3rd stand and hopefully my last. for now anyways.. I started on a 86 coupe GT back in the day - I just sold a 2001 Vert - and now i have my classic.

Looking forward to learning alot from this board.

Greg

[Gearhead999]

First thing is a 68 didn't come with a 351 W. Wasn't offered till 69.

Neat car with zero rust.

Pic's????

[gbeals]

The engine was recently put in.. It is not original. I pick it up tomorrow and then I'll be shooting the car left and right. Start my documentations.....

[Paul 69 Mach I]

Congrats on the purchase. As mentioned the 351W was not offered in 68. I have one in my 69. Mine is old and running good but could use a rebuild. Since the coupe is smaller & lighter it will be a good engine for the car. If you want more out of it you'll need to go to a 4bbl. Like any engine balance the air coming in by exhaust going out. Ton's of mod's you can do. Just make sure your rear end & trans can handle it. Nothing worse that spending money on the engine to only start blowing out the drive tran behind it. I've started at the back end and worked forward. Next winter the car goes into storage but the engine does not..... MUHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!

[canadianstang1]

cool is u'rs an auto? i got mine a coupel months ago and workin like mad to get it on the road this summer. not rust free tho lol. it has a '73 cleveland 2bbl auto in it. i guess windsors have alot more performance stuff to choose from. i wonder what the cars would do against each other bein that theyre stock motors lol. is urs drums all around? they are pretty sweet lookin cars. congratulations!

[gbeals]

Yeah, so far so good. I've only had a few hours to spend with my new purchase. But Body is in great condition. The entire floor is new - New carpet - New exhaust and mufflers all the way back. Rebuilt 351W (Stock) 2 weeks on the rebuild. I do need a new radiator and hoses and seat belts. I'll have to replace some fuses, and should be road worthy.

Yeah I do have drums all around. It's taking some getting used to (when I was driving it) But car over heats rather quickly due to radiator. Car does look nice, just needs some rims and some minor body work.

I was wondering.. Is there a way to tell the year of the engine? That is the only thing the previoius owner did not know - since he got this engine out of a 86 mustang. Also, Im going for the "Muscle" look on this car - fat tires out back and smaller up front. I think the 16x8 torque thrusts will be in my near future, but what is the reccommended tire combination to get the look in the attached photo. Also I believe this is a 1" drop up front as well. Any insite to this would be great.

[gbeals]

Also, what kind of carb should I be looking at?

[Paul 69 Mach I]

I have a 69 Mach I Frt disc rear drum. 4 Spd. I wouldn't race mine with the engine in the shape it is in. Runs great, just tired & could use a rebuild. But I want to get the rest of the drivetran in shape befor I rebuild it. Next year though I'll take it to the track & run a couple 1/4 miles after the engine is broken in.

[Paul 69 Mach I]

gbeals
If your having overheating problems I'm make the radiator my priority. You don't want to keep overheating a newly rebuilt engine.

As far as the seat belts, your obviously not going stock so I would look in NPD or California Mustang. You can get a 3 point seat belt conversion kit for about $250. Very easy to install.

As far as your carb, you should look @ Edlebrock you can get a matched carb & intake manifold at a reasonable price.

As far as the tires & wheels your probably best taking the car in to where you will buy them to match everything up. I'd hate to recommend stuff & see it won't fit.

A word of caution, before you start throwing all this HP under the hood make sure you stiffen up your frame. I'd suggest subframe connectors & an export brace. Total for both are less than $200 & both can be bolted on. (I'd recommend welding the sub frame connectors though.) Both will reduce body flex & twist. I know neither are pretty & neither make it go any faster but it's a small price to pay compared to fixing a body that's had the s*** torqued out of it.

As far as the MFG date of the engine It never really mattered to me so I've never checked it out.

[Orange97GTVert]

Congratulations on your new purchase! Take lots of pictures before you start. It makes you appreciate everything you do to it down the road. Share some with us too!
If you want original type seat belts, check out http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/. They remanufacture vintage seat belts, make them look brand new. The company is owned by a good friend of mine.

[gbeals]

Wow - you guys are GREAT!

I'll be tinkering today since the weather is so nice, so I'll take some vids, and some pics... I'm documenting today - then a slight clean - just to get rid of the crap - then starting the plan.

I do plan on doing the suspension and that was going to be a question on stiffening the chassis - so thanks for that 1.

I think before I start putting some serious HP to this puppy, just getting her to run and drive smooth and sweet stock is my first step- but the info is great. It will help a lot in my planining. Im a research freak - so I'll research everyhthign to death before I buy. Took me years to actually buy a car.

[Paul 69 Mach I]

[QUOTE=gbeals]Wow - you guys are GREAT!

I think before I start putting some serious HP to this puppy, just getting her to run and drive smooth and sweet stock is my first step- but the info is great.

Well, why didn't you say so. I'm in the process of putting a handling kit on my Mach I now. I went with the Street Bandit handling kit in NPD's 2005 edition Classic Mustang catalog (P.56). It doesn't come with bushings & shackles but has almost everything else. I decided to stay away from the polyurethane bushings because I hear they squeak after a while. I figured rubber ones have been good in it all these years, I'll stick with new rubber.
But if your planning on getting one of these classic Mustangs to handle like a sports car forget it. They just can't do it. One other thing, That play in your steering wheel.... It's the steering gear, you can adjust it, you can buy a new one but you'll still have some.

[gbeals]

Excellent... How would I go about adjusting this sterring gear? For anyone's viewing pleasure, here is a quick clip and some pics of the new stang. I love the fact that it has a new exhaust but flowmasters are going to be a must - I did notice that there is no H or X pipe. This firing order doesnt need a crossover?

Heres the clip: www.wedesigngood.com/68.zip (9megs zipped)


Also - In the vid you'll see a spark plug - pluggin a hose...? What's that all about?

How does one go about cleaning an engine? What should I not get wet or should I use a spray and towel? Have new covers, new air cleaner (all chrome) - getting new sparkplug wires, spark plugs - anything else why Im at it? Oil change too.

[KiltedBanshees93GT]

Originally Posted by gbeals

Excellent... How would I go about adjusting this sterring gear? For anyone's viewing pleasure, here is a quick clip and some pics of the new stang. I love the fact that it has a new exhaust but flowmasters are going to be a must - I did notice that there is no H or X pipe. This firing order doesnt need a crossover?

How does one go about cleaning an engine? What should I not get wet or should I use a spray and towel? Have new covers, new air cleaner (all chrome) - getting new sparkplug wires, spark plugs - anything else why Im at it? Oil change too.

IIRC there is a small screw on top of the box that is used for adjusting, unfortunatly I dont remember the specifics of the adjustment.
OK, I found it for manual cars in my Haynes, I'll try to get it scanned here in a few...

I would recommend going with an h or x anyway, I thought they all had one from the factory

Cleaning the engine: Engine cold or slightly warn, but not hot, bag the dist, coil, basically all the electronics to be safe, carb, then spraw everything down with simple green, or other degreaser, you may have to scrub a bit, then garden hose or pressure washer (not on full power near anything bagged/delecate)
Once your done, either let the engine idle or use something like a leaf blower to dry.
Theres lots more you can do, but thats the basics

As to your earlier question about a 1" drop, were you refering to the "Shelby drop"? details here at the bottom. Note, apparently it only drops the actual car about 1/4"

Hope it helps,
J

[Paul 69 Mach I]

Yep your a new Mustang owner all right. Your keeping me busy with questions.
I see you already have an answer for the steering gear. Don't be surprised when it is already adjuster all the way it can be. New steering gear time...... Ain't owning classic's fun?

Get a Chilton's & Hanyes manuel both will give you fun reading and idea's to empty your wallet.

X pipe period end of sentence! It equalizes the exhaust gases better than an H pipe.

FLOWMASTERS.... Sheez that's where you lose me. Why would you want your Mustang to sound like every ******* Ram 1500 on the road? I have not moved to exhaust yet so I have not picked mine. Mine will be as quiet as possible & still allow flow because I'd rather you hear the roar of my engine than my exhaust. My son has flow masters on his 70 Cutlass....... Wouldn't do it dude... A quiet exhaust reduced the headaches & lets you hear the radio. Consider a mild cam if you want better sound.

Your engine cleaning question concerns me for a couple reasons. But first I'll answer the question. The prior post answered it nicely with the exception that I'd rent a steam cleaner from the local rental place. If your replacing spark wires that makes it easy because after marking the distributor & drawing a diagram of the #'s Vs. where they go (that firing order is a pesky thing) I'd pull the coil & then clean the engine.

Now here is my reason for concern and I do not mean to scare you, but why would any of this need to be done? Your car is a 2 week old rebuild. You should be able to serve Christmas dinner on it. I don't know of anyone who will rebuild an engine & not clean it spotless before cracking it open. How do you grind the head & replace them if it's dirty? Why would you want to rebuild a dirty engine? If the engine is rebuilt why would you need to replace anything under the hood? Heck it should be all new. I'd ask myself just what was rebuilt if I was looking at a dirty motor with old wires.

Best advise is set a 5 year plan & cover the car in total. Don't forget the electrical (ask Trish about my advise to her light problem. I nailed her problem on the first post.)

OK I think I covered all the questions and I better get going. It's my wives birthday & I better not be talking car stuff when she gets home.... WOMEN!!! They just don't understand!

[gbeals]

Paul - great info and questions... This car has been sitting for 3.5 years - the rebuild was done then. So quite a bit of crap has gathered. The cables are still new, but I'd feel better knowing what exactly went into this car. The air cleaner is old - was just thrown on there - and the radiator blew, so there's fluid all over the place. Just looking to pretty it up a little..

Flowmasters is the obvious choice, and yes I would sound like all the others... And living in NC every truck around sounds like that. I am not locked in there, but I do like the louder muscle sound.. Spintech is another, only havent heard them in person yet. I got time though... X pipe huh... I'll look into that as well.

Electrical is on my list. I currently got one headlight super bright and the other super dim. Wiring problem there (most likey) Also when I turn on the blinkers, I get some smoke feums... So wireing there as well.

I think small term goals are:
-Radiator
-Fluids (make sure all full and new)
-Fix any leaks (have 2 i think)
-brakes
-electrical will be an ongoing deal

I feel at this point I'll be just about road worthy. Not looking good, but road worthy.

Then on to looking good, and driving better parts..

Again thanks for all the help. do you guys reccommend any other sites for information on classics?

Oh - did anyone see the sparkplug pluggin the wire on the passagers side of the engine in my video? What the hell is that all about?

[red]

Looks like it is plugging a vacuum port. Not sure what it went to originally. You got a shop manual yet? You can go to the auto parts store and they can give you a little flexible plastic cap for like 10 cents, you could use it to replace that hose and spark plug. Some one here will know what that vacuum port went to originally (automatic trans maybe?).

[gbeals]

Manual is on my "next to buy" list. This is for an auto.

I did find some leaks this evening, as I started taking closer looks - I have 2 leaks, not too bad,... 1 is just behind the oil pan, and the other is along the pan in the tranny. Looks like i have some issues to deal with first...

[canadianstang1]

in the mustang restoration handbook by don taylor and tom wilson it says to adjust the steering gear by diconnecting the pitman arm taking the steering wheel off and a bunch of other stuff. it says that if u jsut tighten the locknut and adjusting screw on the steering box it will cause premature wear on the steering gear. his explanation is pretty long but its a good book and explains most of the tear down and rebuild of a full restoration. if ya want me to type their explanation out email me at canadianstang1@hotmail.com dunno if theirs is the right way or not??? but the rest of the book is pretty cool and was one of the 1st books i bought on mustangs.

[6T9PONY]

Originally Posted by gbeals

Electrical is on my list. I currently got one headlight super bright and the other super dim. Wiring problem there (most likey) Also when I turn on the blinkers, I get some smoke feums... So wireing there as well.

Check the ground for the bright bulb. It's probably a weak connection. PKRWUD is responsible for making me aware of this little problem.