About to begin Front end rebuild

SvntyStang · 02-07-2000, 01:15 PM

Does anyone have any pointers to make this easier. Things to look out for and such.
I own a 1970 convertible w/ 302 3 speed.

Clark Rodgers · 02-07-2000, 02:23 PM

When you say easier that usually means more expensive. You can purchase complete upper control arms instead of rebuilding them. But whichever you choose buy quality parts such as (Moog, TRW) and make sure you use a good spring compressor for safety.
One thing you might try is to relocate the upper control arms 1 inch lower than they are now. This is what they did on shelby's so it's got to be good!
How much are you changing in the front end?

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

mslcr · 02-09-2000, 12:34 AM

Last year I rebuilt the front end in my wifes '69 Mach 1.
Rule number 1) Use a quality coil spring compressor!!! You may be removing the springs more than once, and you dont want to be loosing body parts (yours) or dinging that Mustang!
Dont be afraid of it. Once its apart, you will be amazed how simple it is.
2) Measure the ride height BEFORE you begin. this can be from anywhere, just for reference. I used the fender lip in the wheel well.
3) Take your time. clean and detail all the parts once removed. This keeps it fun. I took about 2 weeks (or longer) to do ours.
Have it apart where you can leave it for several days. We were shipped some wrong parts in the kit, and had to exchange some.
4) Use good jackstands for safety.
I installed new coils, shocks, all bushings, (poly-graphite), Idler arm, Tie rod ends, Coil isolators, spring perches, Tires...
I rebuilt the original "A" arms, also lowered them as per templates. We dont regret any of it.
No more squeeks and handles great. my wife loves too corner so hard, all 4 tires squeel.
Good luck!

Rev · 02-09-2000, 01:26 AM

SvntyStang, I did this 4 yrs. ago on my '66 Mustang and spent way too much restoring my drumm brakes. When i finally figured out what I wanted to do, I did a "road racing' suspension that I got from Mustangs Plus in Ca., a long way from me and further from you. I got my front disk brakes from Jim's Mustang in El Cajon Ca. They are Granada parts, all new except Raybestos rebuilt calipers. My main tip is to do it the way you want it the first time. Don't do what I did and spend money for an original rebuild only to find out that you really want resto-mod. Hope this helps.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, windage
tray, TRW flat tops, 351W
heads,pocket ported, 268
CC hydraulic cam, R tip
R's, Edelbrock Performer,
600 CFM Holley vac. secs.,
Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel
pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 "
custom pipes, 3 chamber
Flows, stock C-4, 3.25
Currie built 8" rear
and whatever else I
forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph
1/4 mi.

SvntyStang · 02-10-2000, 09:29 AM

Great advice everyone!
For what I am planning, I am looking into getting a front end rebuild kit ( Upper and lower control arms, springs (the 620s to lower the car 1")spring perches, insulators and bushings. I am also getting a new sway bar. Should I get a rear sway bar?
I rebuilt my brakes 2 months ago (drum all around) with a kit from Canadian Mustang. I hope to convert it to disc one of these days.
I haven't driven the car except from the garage to the driveway for a wash but at least I could stop the car and there were no loud thumping noises!
I hope to have the car ready to drive by July.

Clark Rodgers · 02-10-2000, 09:50 AM

Why not get the rear sway bar, it will only help the handling and it's not too expensive.
How was it dealing with canadian mustang, I am considering purchasing their leaf springs.

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

Rev · 02-10-2000, 11:27 PM

I used a 1 1/8" front bar and a 3/4" rear bar from Mustangs Plus. 620 front springs (1/4 coil removed) and 5 leaf mid eye rear springs. Also used Gabriel Strider adjusable shocks all around. Makes for a fairly stiff ride, but handles great in the twisties. Probably not the best for 1/4 mile runs. My $.02.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, windage
tray, TRW flat tops, 351W
heads,pocket ported, 268
CC hydraulic cam, R tip
R's, Edelbrock Performer,
600 CFM Holley vac. secs.,
Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel
pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 "
custom pipes, 3 chamber
Flows, stock C-4, 3.25
Currie built 8" rear
and whatever else I
forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph
1/4 mi.

macx · 02-11-2000, 03:36 PM

Hey, did a 70 convert V8 a few months ago.
Replaced entire front suspension, used 1" lowered springs front and back, the HD ones
(think they were 620's or so). Saw you mentioned Canadian Mustang - I used all their pieces, including their Midolyne bushings.
VERY pleased, HIGHLY recommend the Midolyne.
Rides firm but not like poly - doesn't transmit road shock like poly (just like they claimed, even!).

I did the front in a weekend, but stuck with it
and didn't do lots of detailing. Canadian Mustang good to deal with, parts fit and worked great. Car handles really well, firm but not harsh ride, corners great even with stock small front-only sway bar. Looks really good lowered, too. Would strongly consider their 1" rear lowered springs now or later if necessary. Would probably be good to lower those front arm pivot points 1" as mentioned above. Somewhere there's a template for that job (on net) - anyone know where? Definitely get good spring compressor, and use jack stands. Kind of tough to get the upper arm pivot stuff together (I rebuilt mine instead of buying new arms), otherwise pretty straight forward job.

Go for it and enjoy the ride!!

macx · 02-11-2000, 03:42 PM

Forgot to mention, measure the strut rods from their mounts to the A arms before you loosen them. Helps get alignment close when reinstalling. You can use an inexpensive angle meter (available at tool/hardware places) to get camber close to straight up, too. With the lowered springs, camber was right on the edge of being "alignable" - maybe lowering those pivots would help that.

Clark Rodgers · 02-14-2000, 10:18 AM

The good thing about the lowering of the 69-70 upper control arms is it is exactly 1 inch lower, straight down unlike the older ones where they needed to be angled.
Thanks Macx for the input on Canadian I wanted to go with there parts but have not heard much about them. After all that adjustment what does the ride height look like? I am wondering if the front is lower than the back because the 69-70 models always seem to be lower in the back.

[This message has been edited by Clark Rodgers (edited 02-14-2000).]

02-07-2000, 01:15 PM	#1
SvntyStang Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Greensboro NC Posts: 9	About to begin Front end rebuild Does anyone have any pointers to make this easier. Things to look out for and such. I own a 1970 convertible w/ 302 3 speed.

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02-07-2000, 02:23 PM	#2
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	When you say easier that usually means more expensive. You can purchase complete upper control arms instead of rebuilding them. But whichever you choose buy quality parts such as (Moog, TRW) and make sure you use a good spring compressor for safety. One thing you might try is to relocate the upper control arms 1 inch lower than they are now. This is what they did on shelby's so it's got to be good! How much are you changing in the front end? ------------------ 69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

02-09-2000, 12:34 AM	#3
mslcr Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: WY Posts: 41	Last year I rebuilt the front end in my wifes '69 Mach 1. Rule number 1) Use a quality coil spring compressor!!! You may be removing the springs more than once, and you dont want to be loosing body parts (yours) or dinging that Mustang! Dont be afraid of it. Once its apart, you will be amazed how simple it is. 2) Measure the ride height BEFORE you begin. this can be from anywhere, just for reference. I used the fender lip in the wheel well. 3) Take your time. clean and detail all the parts once removed. This keeps it fun. I took about 2 weeks (or longer) to do ours. Have it apart where you can leave it for several days. We were shipped some wrong parts in the kit, and had to exchange some. 4) Use good jackstands for safety. I installed new coils, shocks, all bushings, (poly-graphite), Idler arm, Tie rod ends, Coil isolators, spring perches, Tires... I rebuilt the original "A" arms, also lowered them as per templates. We dont regret any of it. No more squeeks and handles great. my wife loves too corner so hard, all 4 tires squeel. Good luck!

02-09-2000, 01:26 AM	#4
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	SvntyStang, I did this 4 yrs. ago on my '66 Mustang and spent way too much restoring my drumm brakes. When i finally figured out what I wanted to do, I did a "road racing' suspension that I got from Mustangs Plus in Ca., a long way from me and further from you. I got my front disk brakes from Jim's Mustang in El Cajon Ca. They are Granada parts, all new except Raybestos rebuilt calipers. My main tip is to do it the way you want it the first time. Don't do what I did and spend money for an original rebuild only to find out that you really want resto-mod. Hope this helps. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, windage tray, TRW flat tops, 351W heads,pocket ported, 268 CC hydraulic cam, R tip R's, Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM Holley vac. secs., Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 " custom pipes, 3 chamber Flows, stock C-4, 3.25 Currie built 8" rear and whatever else I forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph 1/4 mi.

02-10-2000, 09:29 AM	#5
SvntyStang Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Greensboro NC Posts: 9	Great advice everyone! For what I am planning, I am looking into getting a front end rebuild kit ( Upper and lower control arms, springs (the 620s to lower the car 1")spring perches, insulators and bushings. I am also getting a new sway bar. Should I get a rear sway bar? I rebuilt my brakes 2 months ago (drum all around) with a kit from Canadian Mustang. I hope to convert it to disc one of these days. I haven't driven the car except from the garage to the driveway for a wash but at least I could stop the car and there were no loud thumping noises! I hope to have the car ready to drive by July.

02-10-2000, 09:50 AM	#6
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	Why not get the rear sway bar, it will only help the handling and it's not too expensive. How was it dealing with canadian mustang, I am considering purchasing their leaf springs. ------------------ 69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

02-10-2000, 11:27 PM	#7
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	I used a 1 1/8" front bar and a 3/4" rear bar from Mustangs Plus. 620 front springs (1/4 coil removed) and 5 leaf mid eye rear springs. Also used Gabriel Strider adjusable shocks all around. Makes for a fairly stiff ride, but handles great in the twisties. Probably not the best for 1/4 mile runs. My $.02. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, windage tray, TRW flat tops, 351W heads,pocket ported, 268 CC hydraulic cam, R tip R's, Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM Holley vac. secs., Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 " custom pipes, 3 chamber Flows, stock C-4, 3.25 Currie built 8" rear and whatever else I forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph 1/4 mi.

02-11-2000, 03:36 PM	#8
macx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Gordonville MO USA Posts: 448	Hey, did a 70 convert V8 a few months ago. Replaced entire front suspension, used 1" lowered springs front and back, the HD ones (think they were 620's or so). Saw you mentioned Canadian Mustang - I used all their pieces, including their Midolyne bushings. VERY pleased, HIGHLY recommend the Midolyne. Rides firm but not like poly - doesn't transmit road shock like poly (just like they claimed, even!). I did the front in a weekend, but stuck with it and didn't do lots of detailing. Canadian Mustang good to deal with, parts fit and worked great. Car handles really well, firm but not harsh ride, corners great even with stock small front-only sway bar. Looks really good lowered, too. Would strongly consider their 1" rear lowered springs now or later if necessary. Would probably be good to lower those front arm pivot points 1" as mentioned above. Somewhere there's a template for that job (on net) - anyone know where? Definitely get good spring compressor, and use jack stands. Kind of tough to get the upper arm pivot stuff together (I rebuilt mine instead of buying new arms), otherwise pretty straight forward job. Go for it and enjoy the ride!!

02-11-2000, 03:42 PM	#9
macx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Gordonville MO USA Posts: 448	Forgot to mention, measure the strut rods from their mounts to the A arms before you loosen them. Helps get alignment close when reinstalling. You can use an inexpensive angle meter (available at tool/hardware places) to get camber close to straight up, too. With the lowered springs, camber was right on the edge of being "alignable" - maybe lowering those pivots would help that.

02-14-2000, 10:18 AM	#10
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	The good thing about the lowering of the 69-70 upper control arms is it is exactly 1 inch lower, straight down unlike the older ones where they needed to be angled. Thanks Macx for the input on Canadian I wanted to go with there parts but have not heard much about them. After all that adjustment what does the ride height look like? I am wondering if the front is lower than the back because the 69-70 models always seem to be lower in the back. [This message has been edited by Clark Rodgers (edited 02-14-2000).]