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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() Hey there its me again witha my 66' Stang.
Question? What should I set my timing at? It runs and sounds good at 10 degrees retard but if I move it all the way up to 30 degrees retard it idles even smoother. engine parts listed in signature. ------------------ 66 Mustang Black W/ Black 289 Hi-Po 65'heads, MSD Lunati High lift Cam 750CFM Carb Heddman Headers, Hurst Shifter |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Oviedo, FL
Posts: 992
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![]() zacho,
What do you mean when you say "retard"? Your timing should be around 10-12 deg. advanced with the vacumn line to the dist. disconnected. Are you taking it off the right bank?? Right bank, passenger side, front cylinder. If you have to retard it to run, I would check the balancer and make sure it hasn't slipped. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() Retard meaning Below Top Dead Center. No Vacuum adavance with with the MSD system
------------------ 66 Mustang Black W/ Black 289 Hi-Po 65'heads, MSD Lunati High lift Cam 750CFM Carb Heddman Headers, Hurst Shifter |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() The book said something about setting stock timing at 6 degrees btdc and hi-po settings at 0 degrees.
------------------ 66 Mustang Black W/ Black 289 Hi-Po 65'heads, MSD Lunati High lift Cam 750CFM Carb Heddman Headers, Hurst Shifter |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() Another Question??
Should I just adjust until I get it to the smoothest point possible, because when I turn it out 25 degrees it smooths out and revs higher?? |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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![]() zacko, it sounds like yo may be 1 tooth off on your distributor, or that you're confusing advance and retard. Check those things out and get back to us.
Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi. [This message has been edited by Rev (edited 06-30-2001).] |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() are you talking about the amount of teeth on the distributor and if you are how many should there be.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Oviedo, FL
Posts: 992
|
![]() The term is BTDC=Before Top Dead Center. That is advanced. The problem you can run in to when you push the timing way up, like 25 deg, is detonation. Remember the dist. will advance the timing with the cent. weights approximatly 25 degrees or so. Then with 25 intial at the crank you'll end up with a total of around 50 degrees. Which is WAY TO MUCH. It will detonate and start eating parts [pistons, valves, etc].
I still think your balancer or pointer is off. If you set the timing at 25 degrees, or where you say it runs better and revs better. What happens when you shut it off and try and start it?? I shouldn't start or even turn over with that much intial. It will hold back, from the timing. Pull #1 plug. Put you thumb over it, bump engine around with starter or wrench on crank, when you hear/feel the compression, stop. Now take a coat hanger, or other small stiff wire and probe the plug hole for the top of the piston. Hold the wire and turn the motor over by hand till you can feel where TDC is. Now look at timing marks. Where are you?? Should be TDC. You can also pull valve cover and watch intake valve. When it closes you are on compression stroke and near TDC. But, that's alot of work. I don't think one tooth off on dist. is causing this. It will only limit travel of the dist. while you're adjusting it. Vacumn adv. hits the water outlet or something the other way. Let us know whats going on. |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() Thanks I'll try it.
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Hampton, Virginia
Posts: 227
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![]() Turned out to be something wrong with the timing light.
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