CERAMIC HEADERS LONG or SHORT ? ? ?

[SCHOONER]

Hi Guys

I'm rebuilding my '66 ~ 289cid engine. At the present time my engine is hanging on the engine hoist waiting to go to the machine shop.

However, I'd like some info about: Are Ceramic Headers. Are they the best part for my car's engine.

Lastly, what is the difference between; Long & Short Headers.

I'm still learning at: 65yr. Don't laugh guys I'm a great believer in:
It ain't over till you hear the fat lady sing ~ I don't even hear her humming yet . . .

It's never to late to learn.

Thanks guys
GOD bless you all in this New Year.

Schooner

[Rev]

I like the tri-y's for the classic Mustangs. If they were good enough for Carrol Shelby, they're good enough for me. I just put on new Patriot ceramic tri-y's from Mustang plus with a Dr.Gas x-pipe. They fit easily in my '66 and function well to 6000-6500 rpm.

Rev

[Gearhead999]

Long headers are the ones that go to the bottom of the engine and turn toward the rear of the vehicle. They then go to collectors and if street legal go to an exhaust system.

Shorty headers are what GT Mustangs have been coming with for many years. They exit the engine and terminat where they turn rearward to direct the exhaust gasses rearward. Shorties are like the headers/manifold that a stock GT came with.

[SCHOONER]

Originally Posted by Rev

I like the tri-y's for the classic Mustangs. If they were good enough for Carrol Shelby, they're good enough for me. I just put on new Patriot ceramic tri-y's from Mustang plus with a Dr.Gas x-pipe. They fit easily in my '66 and function well to 6000-6500 rpm.

Rev

Hey Rev

Thanks for you imput
I went to MustangPlus and looked-up those Ceramic Headers, real nice and thanks to you that's the ones I'm going to buy.

Just a few questions before I do that.

Question(s)

Rev did you buy the Dr.Gas Kits or just the Crossover piece
From what I've been reading the Crossover is much better the "H"
crossover its less restrictive ~ Right

Next question:
Are the ports on the Ceramic Headers bigger than the standard exhaust manifolds I have on mine They should be right

In ending this short novel The main idea is to let the engine breath and keep the heat out of the engine compartment. Less heat more ease on the engine and more performance YES/NO

Thanks again Rev.

GOD bless

Schooner
P.S. See Rev I'm not YELLING anymore thanks to you
Take care.

[SCHOONER]

Originally Posted by Gearhead999

Long headers are the ones that go to the bottom of the engine and turn toward the rear of the vehicle. They then go to collectors and if street legal go to an exhaust system.

Shorty headers are what GT Mustangs have been coming with for many years. They exit the engine and terminat where they turn rearward to direct the exhaust gasses rearward. Shorties are like the headers/manifold that a stock GT came with.

Hi Gearhead999

Thanks for you imput.
I should have asked Rev this question but forgot. Not that you're second best ~ all you guys are first place with me

Now Gear'999 when I'm ready I'm going to buy those Ceramic Headers that Rev suggested along with the 'X Crossover'

What I want to know is: Do the Ceramic Crossovers come in both Short and Long
And if they come in both sizes which one is BEST for my application

I'm concerned mainly with the fit, getting those pieces to fit.

Questions,Questions,Questions and all you guys got my answers ~
Thank GOD

O.K. Gear' 999 I hold-on till I hear from you guys.

Thanks again
GOD Bless

Schooner

[Gearhead999]

Sorry, don't know if the crossovers come both ways. Since I have a repair garage, when I install the headers we make the crossover from scratch.

I prefer Hooker headers. I like the quality and fit. There is a lot of Junk out there too. Just be careful what you buy. Some headers have terrible welds and the flange that goes against the head is substandard and warps easily. When that happens the gaskets blow out and need to be replaced.

Also, invest in a set of "Stage 8" header bolts. They are the best when it comes to keeping the header bolts from coming loose. They are a little PIA installing, but are well worth the effort. They have a mechanical lock that fits on the bolt head with a "C" clip that prevents the bolt from turning. I install the bolts, tighten them up good, but don't install the locks till I drive the car some to allow the heat to do it thing with the headers, etc. Then after a week or so. Yes, I do retighten the bolts several times during this time. Then I install the positive locks on the header bolts.

[69fastback]

I paid the money for the hooker super comps and just installation time paid for them. My old headers took 10 hours to put in the hooker super comps took 2hrs. Plus they just look a whole lot better with the ceramic coating.

Long tubes make better power but have less ground clearance than the short tubes. Short tubes are easier to install and don't hand as low. Some adbantages and disadvantages to both it is all what is more important to you. I pefer the long tubes for better performance.

[Rev]

It's the headers that are ceramic coated, not the x-pipe. If you're building a fairly mild street engine, you'll not see much difference in the tri-y's versus the 4 into 1 long tube headers. The tri-y's probably will give you a little more low end torque while the 4 into 1 type headers will give you more high rpm power with the right cam, heads, and induction. It all depends on what you're trying to get out of the engine.

I did order the Dr. Gas x-pipe kit and installed it myself. I did have to wrestle with the pipes a little to get them to hook up to my existing system. It did involve some welding on the x-pipe kit which was a PITA with my puny little welder. You may want to get that done by a muffler shop to avoid the wrestling aspect of it.

I installed the headers in about 2 hours. The rest of it took the rest of the week end. That's with the car on jack stands in the driveway and me lying on my back. With a lift and a mig welder, it could be done a lot easier and in a lot less time.

I'm sure that the Hooker headers would do well for you instead of the Patriot tri-y's. The Patriot ceramic coated tri-y's cost me $329. That price is OK IMHO and the quality was acceptable to me.

Rev

[diablopony]

I also went the Patriot ceramic coated tri-y's. Install was a bit of a pain, but no problems after 4 yrs. You might want to check Sacramento Mustang as they are less than $300. If you have an automatic, don't forget the drop bracket for the power steering ram.

[SCHOONER]

Hi Rev

Thank you for you imput.

Here's what I want to do with my engine. I just want to have an above average performance. No be a 5 second 1/4 mile man

Just a little above average. Like a little more kick in my pick-up and some power on the highway to get out of the way most times.

I bought a T5 manual tranny and an Edelbrock 600cpm manifold. I don't know if I got that (cpm stuff right) A friend of mine suggested a little above average cam with hydrillic lifters.

I know it sound like I'm ready for the track but that's not my attitude.
To contine; So I figure from what I've been reading that ceramic headers are best. Seem from what I'm getting from you Great Guys is that I should go with the Shorties on the headers and make 'em Ceramic.

So that's about it.
Would ready like you and the others guys to give me some imput if I heading in the right directions.

Remember please; Just above average on perfromance but some get-
up and go too.

Thank so much
I await all of you imput please.
GOD bless you guys.

Schooner

P.S. More to come on. " How do I remove Rust in my engine well "
Thanks again

[SCHOONER]

Hi Guys
Guess who . . . lol

O.K. here's the deal: I found some rusty ol' metal the size of a half dollar near the wind shield washer bag. Covering it I should say.

Here's what I intent to do ~ of course after I ran it thru your guys FIRST

I'll cut the rust out with my DeWalt (with a grinder on my end of it)
Making sure its all out.
Then I'll go around back under the wheel well and burnish that side with a wire wheel,grinder,etc.etc. Making sure its nice an clean.

I'll cut a piece of sheet metal to cover the clean hole.I don't have a mig machine so I'll soder it with: 60/40 solder. More Tin then Lead.
Its stronger that way. I'll flux it and solder it from inside the engine well.
P.S. my buddy and partner for life will hold the sheet metal with a small block of wood till I tack it with the solder. ( GOD bless that women)

To continue; When the sheet metal piece is solder I'll fill the area with BONDO. I'll wait over night for it to dry and then sand it getting ready for primer.

That's it guys.Whew what a novel

O.K. guys as uselly I'm in your experience hands
Tell me if I'm on the right track please

Never did this stuff before so I'm ready to listen and take your suggestions. You guys did this before and I haven't.

Thanks again
GOD bless you all

Schooner