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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ada, OK
Posts: 4
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![]() Brand new here to post, but I've been reading some of the chatter. I have a stock 1969 Mustang Fastback J code 302/C4. I'm planning to make it a Resto Mod staying mostly stock, but with more Horses, lowered, 18" wheels and tires, and custom paint. I have the opportunity purchase a 347 Stroker/C6 with all the good stuff, but am getting conflicting views from the two restorers I'm considering. One says with the Stroker, and all the rest I plan, the finished value will be $35-$40K. The other says for a Resto Mod, the value will be about the same with the stock 302 as with the 347; about $30K. With the 347/C6 I'm looking at about $35K invested in the reto; about $5000 less without it. Anybody have an educated opinion?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: new york
Posts: 482
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![]() well look at it like this you can always swap the engine back..i look at it as how i want my car not some one else.if its bone stock orginal then i would not change it but if its been re painted and restored then i would deff change it..but like i said also look at it how u want it to be
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347 stroker all forged,arp everything,stud mains w/girdle,7qt pan,full roller, custom cam, aluminum heads swirl valves 5 angle valve job.quick fuel 750,areomotive pump,cobras w/nitto drags,and m/t et drags for the track, ford racing 373 gears,centerforce clutch,tko500,underdrive pulleys,bassani x-pipe,flowmasters ^best et so far 11.6 1.61 60ft coming soon 9sec et's ![]() 1992 mustang gt 2001 gmc 1500 4x4 78 century boat 92 skidoo |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 950
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![]() How'd I miss this thread!!? Beautiful car! From what i've seen resto-mods will not add much, if any, value to the car unless its done either to an extreme or by a big name shop. So if your looking to hold onto it as an investment, keeping it stock is a better idea. If you want to enjoy it, start modding! One thing to keep in mind is that for many aftermarket parts you can go back to stock with them if you ever decide to sell.
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Alex |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ada, OK
Posts: 4
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![]() bmxmon & goodyear1984,
Thanks for the advice. I recently sent for and received the Marti report for my car. Turns out it's not the original color or interior. When I bought this car, it was obvious it had been wrecked, from a small amount of frame repair up on the left front. I went ahead and purchased the stroker and C6. It was tricked out with pretty much everything I wanted. As you said bmxmon, I bought this car to enjoy, and so I might as well get it the way I want it, and not worry about resale. They aren't making these cars anymore, so they really can't depreciate, even in a weak economy. My ride when I was 16 was a brand new 1968 GTX, 440 mag. Back in the day, we didn't want our cars to look stock. That's my feeling still. I want this 'stang to rip up the road, and look really cool doing it. Now all I have to do is find honest people to do the work I can't (which is most of it). I believe they will be provided. Have a very Blessed Christmas! in HIS grip, Dan |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
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![]() Glad to hear you went with the engine you want. That would have been my advice also...build it how you want to drive it, not how you think someone down the road will want to pay for it.
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ada, OK
Posts: 4
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![]() Yep. You guys are right. I am glad I decided to go with the power. Now if I can just find someone trustworthy who knows what they're doing, and that I can afford. I've talked with quite a few weekend car enthusiasts, and think I can haul the car around to about 4 different places to get it completed for the time being(until I can afford to do more).
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 950
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![]() Glad to hear your doing it your way as well. Best of luck finding someone who will do a good job for you, it might take awhile but will be worth it to find someone who will take some pride in your car.
Thats some good advice AllStang, I take it to heart considering what will be powering my stang in the near future...
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Alex |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ada, OK
Posts: 4
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![]() Thanks for all the encouraging words. Now I ask for some technical advice. From what I can tell the frame of my car looks good, but the floor pans are badly rusted. I have located a guy who builds drag cars. He has agreed to beef up the frame to handle the added torque, and will redo the front suspension for me. He will also clean up the engine bay, put in, and finish out the engine and transmission, and rear differential.
I know zero about body work. Should the floor pans be replaced before the frame and suspension work, or would this still be possible to do afterward? Does this sound like a good place to begin? My thinking is to get it safe to drive first. I have not asked yet if he can also convert my car to disc brakes. Sound I go with just front discs or all four? |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 950
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![]() If you can get the floors fixed, one of those 'while your there' things. Plus the mustang is a unibody, so a strong floor is a must. As far as the brakes go, again if you can afford it go with all four, but the majority of classic mustangs are running around with front disc/rear drum just fine. The floors are a bigger problem than not having disc's all around.
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Alex |
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#10 |
65 coupe
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: missouri
Posts: 11
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![]() I agreee with BMX, replace your floors first. Once you start stiffening the chassis it will make replacing the floorpans a little more diffucult. Diffucult =time Time=$$$$ when somebody else is doing the work.
You say you are building this car to enjoy...are you planning on rebuilding the suspension to stock or do you plan up making some changes. Remember, you can rebuild your stock suspension but you will have brand new 1968 technology. You can drop a ton of money on suspension mods but shop around and you can find some decent kits that dont cost much more than stock parts. other than brakes the biggest difference in handling will be upgrading to a rack and pinion setup. Either power or manual will make a huge difference in how well you can feel the road. I prefer manual racks. As far as brakes go I would go 4 wheel disc, but if your budget gets away from you do the front first. With traffic today it is a major safety concern to be driving around with drum brakes, not to mention you dont want to smash up that fresh body work. Good luck and dont be shy about posting questions. |
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