67 Stang Overheating

Mike67coupe · 09-15-2001, 05:36 PM

I have a 67 Stang with a 70's 302 (i am not exactly sure of the date do you know where can I find it?) I just out an oversized radiator in it, new edlebrock performer manifold, and holly 600cfm carb, I am having an overheating problem and I have no clue why. Is there any way you can help me, if so thanks.

PKRWUD · 09-15-2001, 06:39 PM

What is the t-stat rated at? Have you tested it? What kind of fan do you have? Do you have a shroud? What is your cooling system mixture percentage (water to coolant)? Did you remove all the air from the system when you installed the new intake? What is your timing set at?

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
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Mike67coupe · 09-15-2001, 10:35 PM

Right now I have an 18 inch Flex light fan. I don't have a shroud. I am not sure if the air was taken out of the system, I took it to a shop to have the intake put on. No I haven't tested the t-stat. I am not sure what my timing is set at.

PKRWUD · 09-16-2001, 12:24 AM

Well, first off I would check the timing, just to see where it is. Next, you should inspect the t-stat. A new one should have been installed with the intake, but you never know. You can test the old one, but you might just be better off replacing it with a new 180 degree t-stat from Ford. Aftermarket t-stats aren't very reliable, and the Ford t-stats have a built in "nipple" valve that allows for air pockets to escape from the engine. You should also buy a new radiator cap. A Stant red lever pressure release cap, rated at 16 pounds, would be best. If your cap doesn't maintain pressure, your cooling system will heat up very fast, and can overheat in 10 minutes or less. I would also recommend finding a fan shroud that fits. They do alot more than just protect your fingers. They force the air being drawn into the fan to be pulled through the radiator, thus cooling the fluid inside. Without a shroud, your fan really doesn't do much more than blow air onto the engine. These things should solve any normal overheating problems. Other causes to watch for are improperly installed head gaskets, but since you didn't have them changed, I don't see that as being your problem. If there are signs of water in your oil, you could have a blown head gasket, and should perform a compression check to find out.

BTW, a buddy of mine and I put together a '64 Ranchero a few years ago, and installed a built 306. It had a 180 degree Ford t-stat, a 1972 Ford Pinto radiator, and a single electric fan that was a pusher, and mounted in front of the radiator. It never ran above 185 degrees, even in stop and go traffic.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Mike67coupe · 09-16-2001, 10:39 AM

Thanks for the help. How would I know if there it water in the oil?

Rev · 09-16-2001, 01:24 PM

I had cooling problems after installing a 306 in my '66 Stang. I thought that I had tried everything, electric fans both pusher and puller at the same time, 4 row radiator, high flow aluminum water pump, new thermostat, 40 Below, Shelby valance for extra air flow into the radiator.

Each thing helped a little, but nothing definitive. The problem was that the builder of my engine did not clean out the block and head water passages well enough. The remaining junk clogged up the brand new 4 row radiator thus making it 50% efficient. It worked like a great big filter. Replacing the new radiator with another new one fixed everything. That's what happened in my case.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph
1/4 mi.

PKRWUD · 09-16-2001, 02:06 PM

Mike-
There's two things to check: look for water in the oil, and look for oil in the water(cooling system).
When water gets into the oil inside your engine, the result is a milky looking oil, especially on your dipstick. The level on the dipstick may be higher than normal, and your radiator may seem to never stay full. You may notice a milky oil film inside your oil fill cap, but that is caused by condensation in the top end, and is normal. To see if oil has gotten into the cooling system, look for either a milky froth, or seperate drops, or "beads", of oil visible in the fluid in the radiator. Oil floats on water, and if it gets into the cooling system, it will end up around the radiator fill neck.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Mike67coupe · 09-16-2001, 06:37 PM

I found oil in the radiator. What is the fix for that problem? Thanks for all your help.

PKRWUD · 09-17-2001, 12:10 PM

You are probably going to have to replace the head gaskets, but let's check a few things first.

Do a dry compression check on all 8 cylinders, then do it again wet. Do you need help with this, or is it something you've done before?

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

Mike67coupe · 09-17-2001, 12:21 PM

I have never done that before. Please explain.

PKRWUD · 09-17-2001, 04:03 PM

You will need a compression tester. Once you get one, warm up the engine, then immediately remove all 8 spark plugs, and wedge the throttle wide open. Disconnect the ignition coil. Start at whichever cylinder you want to, and attach the compression tester. Crank the engine over for 5 consecutive rotations. Go read the gauge. That is your dry compression for that cylinder. WRITE IT DOWN! Then go to the next cylinder and do the exact same thing. WRITE IT DOWN! When you have done this to all 8 cylinders, you have finished the dry test. Next you need to do it wet. For that, you will need a quart of oil, and either a squirt can or a small funnel and a piece of fuel line. You are going to do the exact same thing you did for the dry test, except just before you do each cylinder, squirt or pour the equivalent of three soup spoons full of oil into that cylinder through the spark plug hole. After you've put oil in one cylinder and attached the tester, crank it over 5 times and read the gauge. WRITE IT DOWN! Do this for all 8 cylinders, and post the results here. This test will tell us a great deal about the condition of your engine.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-15-2001, 05:36 PM	#1
Mike67coupe Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Coppell, TX Posts: 19	67 Stang Overheating I have a 67 Stang with a 70's 302 (i am not exactly sure of the date do you know where can I find it?) I just out an oversized radiator in it, new edlebrock performer manifold, and holly 600cfm carb, I am having an overheating problem and I have no clue why. Is there any way you can help me, if so thanks.

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09-15-2001, 06:39 PM	#2
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	What is the t-stat rated at? Have you tested it? What kind of fan do you have? Do you have a shroud? What is your cooling system mixture percentage (water to coolant)? Did you remove all the air from the system when you installed the new intake? What is your timing set at? Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-15-2001, 10:35 PM	#3
Mike67coupe Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Coppell, TX Posts: 19	Right now I have an 18 inch Flex light fan. I don't have a shroud. I am not sure if the air was taken out of the system, I took it to a shop to have the intake put on. No I haven't tested the t-stat. I am not sure what my timing is set at.

09-16-2001, 12:24 AM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Well, first off I would check the timing, just to see where it is. Next, you should inspect the t-stat. A new one should have been installed with the intake, but you never know. You can test the old one, but you might just be better off replacing it with a new 180 degree t-stat from Ford. Aftermarket t-stats aren't very reliable, and the Ford t-stats have a built in "nipple" valve that allows for air pockets to escape from the engine. You should also buy a new radiator cap. A Stant red lever pressure release cap, rated at 16 pounds, would be best. If your cap doesn't maintain pressure, your cooling system will heat up very fast, and can overheat in 10 minutes or less. I would also recommend finding a fan shroud that fits. They do alot more than just protect your fingers. They force the air being drawn into the fan to be pulled through the radiator, thus cooling the fluid inside. Without a shroud, your fan really doesn't do much more than blow air onto the engine. These things should solve any normal overheating problems. Other causes to watch for are improperly installed head gaskets, but since you didn't have them changed, I don't see that as being your problem. If there are signs of water in your oil, you could have a blown head gasket, and should perform a compression check to find out. BTW, a buddy of mine and I put together a '64 Ranchero a few years ago, and installed a built 306. It had a 180 degree Ford t-stat, a 1972 Ford Pinto radiator, and a single electric fan that was a pusher, and mounted in front of the radiator. It never ran above 185 degrees, even in stop and go traffic. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-16-2001, 10:39 AM	#5
Mike67coupe Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Coppell, TX Posts: 19	Thanks for the help. How would I know if there it water in the oil?

09-16-2001, 01:24 PM	#6
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	I had cooling problems after installing a 306 in my '66 Stang. I thought that I had tried everything, electric fans both pusher and puller at the same time, 4 row radiator, high flow aluminum water pump, new thermostat, 40 Below, Shelby valance for extra air flow into the radiator. Each thing helped a little, but nothing definitive. The problem was that the builder of my engine did not clean out the block and head water passages well enough. The remaining junk clogged up the brand new 4 row radiator thus making it 50% efficient. It worked like a great big filter. Replacing the new radiator with another new one fixed everything. That's what happened in my case. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi.

09-16-2001, 02:06 PM	#7
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Mike- There's two things to check: look for water in the oil, and look for oil in the water(cooling system). When water gets into the oil inside your engine, the result is a milky looking oil, especially on your dipstick. The level on the dipstick may be higher than normal, and your radiator may seem to never stay full. You may notice a milky oil film inside your oil fill cap, but that is caused by condensation in the top end, and is normal. To see if oil has gotten into the cooling system, look for either a milky froth, or seperate drops, or "beads", of oil visible in the fluid in the radiator. Oil floats on water, and if it gets into the cooling system, it will end up around the radiator fill neck. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-16-2001, 06:37 PM	#8
Mike67coupe Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Coppell, TX Posts: 19	I found oil in the radiator. What is the fix for that problem? Thanks for all your help.

09-17-2001, 12:10 PM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	You are probably going to have to replace the head gaskets, but let's check a few things first. Do a dry compression check on all 8 cylinders, then do it again wet. Do you need help with this, or is it something you've done before? Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-17-2001, 12:21 PM	#10
Mike67coupe Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Coppell, TX Posts: 19	I have never done that before. Please explain.

09-17-2001, 04:03 PM	#11
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	You will need a compression tester. Once you get one, warm up the engine, then immediately remove all 8 spark plugs, and wedge the throttle wide open. Disconnect the ignition coil. Start at whichever cylinder you want to, and attach the compression tester. Crank the engine over for 5 consecutive rotations. Go read the gauge. That is your dry compression for that cylinder. WRITE IT DOWN! Then go to the next cylinder and do the exact same thing. WRITE IT DOWN! When you have done this to all 8 cylinders, you have finished the dry test. Next you need to do it wet. For that, you will need a quart of oil, and either a squirt can or a small funnel and a piece of fuel line. You are going to do the exact same thing you did for the dry test, except just before you do each cylinder, squirt or pour the equivalent of three soup spoons full of oil into that cylinder through the spark plug hole. After you've put oil in one cylinder and attached the tester, crank it over 5 times and read the gauge. WRITE IT DOWN! Do this for all 8 cylinders, and post the results here. This test will tell us a great deal about the condition of your engine. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!