steering Connecting Rods

diablopony · 03-17-2002, 01:54 PM

My connecting rods are making a clunking sounds and are very loose. What are the steps to replacing these? My Chilton's doesn't go into much detail except to say that you need to check alignment after replacing them.

Thanks,

PKRWUD · 03-17-2002, 05:18 PM

I sure hope you meant to say tie-rods.

Gearhead999 · 03-17-2002, 07:41 PM

Must be tie rods.

To replace, buy new ones. After loosening the two bolts that keep the sleeve tight.

Remove cotter pins and castle nuts.

Use fork for seperation.

Then unscrew them, counting the turns.

Replace with new tie rod end [either inner or outer] counting the turn so that they are roughly in the same place that the old ones were.

Tighten castle nuts and install cotter pins

DON'T SKIP COTTER PINS, YOU HAVE TO INSTALL THEM.

Get the car aligned

diablopony · 03-17-2002, 07:58 PM

Thanks Gearhead, that's what I needed to know. And yes, I did mean tie rods. Chilton's refers to them as connecting rods, same thing.

PKRWUD · 03-18-2002, 05:34 AM

Actually, no, they are completely different things. A connecting rod is the piece that goes between the piston and the crank. Very specific. Chiltons must have had a typo. I can't imagine them doing something like that intentionally. Tie rod is a very specific term as well.

Just FYI

Take care,
-Chris

diablopony · 03-18-2002, 09:25 AM

They actually refered to them as 'steering connecting rods' as I did in this post. But, your point is well taken.

03-17-2002, 01:54 PM	#1
diablopony Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Clayton, CA USA Posts: 116	steering Connecting Rods My connecting rods are making a clunking sounds and are very loose. What are the steps to replacing these? My Chilton's doesn't go into much detail except to say that you need to check alignment after replacing them. Thanks, __________________ '68 convert, 5.0 GT-40 Crate motor, C-4, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

03-17-2002, 05:18 PM	#2
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	I sure hope you meant to say tie-rods. __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

03-17-2002, 07:41 PM	#3
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	Must be tie rods. To replace, buy new ones. After loosening the two bolts that keep the sleeve tight. Remove cotter pins and castle nuts. Use fork for seperation. Then unscrew them, counting the turns. Replace with new tie rod end [either inner or outer] counting the turn so that they are roughly in the same place that the old ones were. Tighten castle nuts and install cotter pins DON'T SKIP COTTER PINS, YOU HAVE TO INSTALL THEM. Get the car aligned __________________ "Support our Troops" Dave 1968 Cougar 2004 Thunderbird 2007 F150 Harley-Davidson, SuperCrew 1986 LTD 1997 Ranger 1992 Honda Civic

03-17-2002, 07:58 PM	#4
diablopony Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Clayton, CA USA Posts: 116	Thanks Gearhead, that's what I needed to know. And yes, I did mean tie rods. Chilton's refers to them as connecting rods, same thing. __________________ '68 convert, 5.0 GT-40 Crate motor, C-4, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

03-18-2002, 05:34 AM	#5
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Actually, no, they are completely different things. A connecting rod is the piece that goes between the piston and the crank. Very specific. Chiltons must have had a typo. I can't imagine them doing something like that intentionally. Tie rod is a very specific term as well. Just FYI Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

03-18-2002, 09:25 AM	#6
diablopony Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Clayton, CA USA Posts: 116	They actually refered to them as 'steering connecting rods' as I did in this post. But, your point is well taken. __________________ '68 convert, 5.0 GT-40 Crate motor, C-4, Tri-Y headers, 3.25 rear gears

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