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Old 11-12-2005, 04:50 AM   #1
SCHOONER
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: LAS VEGAS, NEVADA
Posts: 84
Smile THANK YOU GENTLEMEN: PHILLYFANFROMBIRTH, BMXMON & INGENEIUS

Thank You Gentlemen:

PHILLY.....TH

I LOVED THE STEPS YOU GAVE ME IN REMOVAL OF MY '66,289CID ENGINE AND MY 3 SPEED TRANNY. ITS GREAT AND I WILL FOLLOW IT 2 THE T.
THANK YOU

BMXMON

YES, I WILL PULL THE ENGINE FIRST LIKE YOU SUGGESTED. AND YES I HAVE A 3 SPEED MANUAL TRANNY IN THERE NOW. AND I'LL REMEMBER WHAT YOU SAID ABOUT LEAKY TRANNY OIL AND HAVE A PALE OR LOTS OF RAGS READY. MORE THAN LIKELY A PALE OR SOMETHING TO CATCH THE OIL
THANK YOU

IGENEIUS

I'LL WATCH-OUT HOW I PUT BACK EVERYTHNG (THE SAME WAY IT CAME OUT IS THE SAME WAY IT WILL GO IN) THOSE TORK CONV.
BOLTS ARE TO BE PLACE BACK CORRECTLY.
THANK YOU

I wasl told that while I'm looking for a little bit more performance I believe that's the word ~ I should put in a 260 or 265 CAM along with new lifters. (not the rolling kind) Was I told correctly guys

As I stated before gentlemen. I'm looking to just boost-up my engine a bit, not to drag it or out -run the police after I just held-up and BRINKS TRUCK . . . only kidding

Just a little bit of a kick to my 289 engine.

So Here's what I got to do and write-down or have it tattooed to the back of my eye lids

1.Un- hook my battery ~ remove the hood of course.
2.Take out my radiator.
3.Drain coolant.
4.Disconnect the power steering.
5.Disconnect the exhaust at the collector wherever that is located
6.Disconnect the Tranny FIRST.
7.IMPORTANT: GET GRADE 8 ~ 3/4 LONG. (FOR STRENGHT AND SAFETY)
8.DON'T FORCE ANYTHING

HOW AM I DOING GUYS

9. GET HELP ( IT WILL PROBABLY BE A GUY IN MY CLUB WHO'S BEEN AT ENGINES SINCE HE WAS 16.

So why do I write about this on the message board
I joined the Las Vegas Mustang Club only 5 months ago and I'm not that close to most guys YET. But I met this one guy who is willing to help me.

But I must say YOU GUYS ARE MY STRONGEST BACK-UP.
AND I THANK GOD FOR ALL YOUR IMPUT AND RESPECT YOUR CAR KNOWLEDGE VERY MUCH.

O.K. guys that's the end of the novel . . . lol

STAY TUNED FILM AT 11 . . . LOL

AS ALWAYS:
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILIES

SCHOONER
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:52 AM   #2
Ingeneius
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Washington
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Default Re: THANK YOU GENTLEMEN: PHILLYFANFROMBIRTH, BMXMON & INGENEIUS

Your welcome, would hate to see somebody make the same mistakes I made but would love to help somebody before the project got started with tips from the trade. I wish I would have read a little more before I got started. My Grandpa's training when I was young was about 90% of everything I needed to know to pull engines and tranny's. The rest is personnal experience and the Internet of course. Don't forget to have extra light bulbs for that drop light, now I wonder if that's why their called DROP lights?
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Old 11-12-2005, 01:16 PM   #3
Phillyfanfrombirth
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Default Re: THANK YOU GENTLEMEN: PHILLYFANFROMBIRTH, BMXMON & INGENEIUS

Oh yeah...

Please get a manual as well.. one with pictures of the engine bay just in case you lose track...

BTW...

Manual transmissions don't have torque converters...

If you are going to remove your transmission... I'd do it before you pull the engine...

Jack up the car and support it with jackstands...

disconnect the shift linkage and speedometer gear... pull out the gear...


Take off your shifter.

Take a picture of your parking brake set up... or even a well done sketch of it... drop it out of the way.

Unbolt the transmission from the bellhousing... should be 4 or 5 9/16th (or 5/8") head bolts...

Prop up the bellhousing with blocks of wood or something that will be stable, and will not slide.

Take the nuts off of the two bolts that hold the transmission crossmember to the frame, DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS.

Loosen the two nuts holding the transmission to the crossmember.

Drop the drive shaft with the two U bolts at the rear gears... Before you pull the driveshaft yoke out of the transmission, be sure to have a oil catch pan underneath of it... Gear/transmission oil is one of the nastiest smelling oils around, so you don't want it messing up your whole garage.

Start to separate the transmission from the bellhousing... you may need to lightly tap the seam with a screwdriver and a hammer until the seal breaks. If it doesn't break with some due dilligence, go back and make sure that there aren't any more fasteners holding it on...

Once the seal is separated, it is time to put a jack securely under the tailshaft, put light upward pressure on the tailshaft and FIRST remove the two nuts that hold the transmission to the crossmember... then remove the two crossmember to frame bolts.

Carefully remove the crossmember from the transmission and car.

Slowly lower the jack while ensuring the transmissions weight is being supported by the jack. If the jack is lowering without the transmission pressing it down, then jack it back up to the point that it is applying pressure again.

At this point, more fluid will flood your garage floor if you don't have a catch pan... so be prepared.

When it is done draining, try to cork it with a spray paint can cap and a good amount of plastic wrap, continuously wrapping the plastic around the tailshaft until it is secure and looks to be adequate to stop a leak... You may also want to ball up some wrap and stick in the hole left by the speedometer.

slowly and carefully wiggle and pull back on the transmission. Be patient and be careful.

When the input shaft finally withdraws from the clutch, it will drop pretty quickly... don't be under it, and don't have your fingers under it.

I would also have a stack of blocks under the tranmission body ready to catch it when it does drop.


Hope I didn't forget anything...

Last edited by Phillyfanfrombirth; 11-13-2005 at 01:25 PM..
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Old 11-12-2005, 01:25 PM   #4
Phillyfanfrombirth
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Default Re: THANK YOU GENTLEMEN: PHILLYFANFROMBIRTH, BMXMON & INGENEIUS

I wasl told that while I'm looking for a little bit more performance I believe that's the word ~ I should put in a 260 or 265 CAM along with new lifters. (not the rolling kind) Was I told correctly guys

Sounds good... Comp Cams makes (or at least used to) a .268 hydraulic cam... that would be about as big as you should go for a mild performance gain...

7.IMPORTANT: GET GRADE 8 ~ 3/4 LONG. (FOR STRENGHT AND SAFETY)

You will need it to be longer than 3/4"... you will need them to be at least a 3/8" diameter... 3/4" of an inch would be a good gauge on how far out it will need to stick from the block after it is bolted in. I would say that you want it threaded into your block around an inch... maybe make them 1 3/4" long.
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:48 AM   #5
bmxmon
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Default Re: THANK YOU GENTLEMEN: PHILLYFANFROMBIRTH, BMXMON & INGENEIUS

Your welcome. It probably would be a wiser idea to pull the trans first, but you can do it either way. Also, I would drain all the old fluid out and put new fluid in. A pretty good way I have found to stop the little bit thats left over in the trans from coming out the tail shaft is putting a rag in the end with a flat screwdriver. (kinda hard to explain, but you'll figure it out when you get to that point.) Or the plastic wrap sounds like a good idea too. A good way I have found to seperate the trans and engine is with a small, flat crow bar. (the ones for removing nails) When you hook chains up to your engine, make sure to pick spots higher up on the engine, or the engine might flip over. (happened to me, its scary) Also, make sure you have a thick chain, or it could break. (again, almost happened to me, the chain started to seperate, very scary!) When i remove my trans, I put a jack underneath it, unbolt everything, balancing the trans on the jack, lower the jack, then slide the trans off the jack. Good luck and have fun.
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