Traction Bars for 1965 Coupe
 

Hello all - I have had the Stang on the road a few times this summer and let loose on the pedal once or twice (more like ALWAYS) at the stoplight. I noticed the car (seems like the frame) twisted to the right (right side dipped). It felt as if there was a pull to the left on the wheel. I am going to guess that I have a problem with the axle??? Maybe it is a limited slip. Never really burned the tires to tell, but I was thinking a set of traction bars would not hurt. Does anyone have any experience with these. I don't weld - so I would like a bolt on set. Any Advise?
Mabybe just too much HP for the stock Drivetrain?

Thanks!!!!

axle hop?
 

Unless you have axle hop on spinning, you may not need traction bars. I use 5 leaf springs and that's enough on my car to prevent "spring wind up". If your car launches fairly hard, and spins the tires some on launch, then dipping of the right rear and rising of the left front is normal. That's because the engine tries to twist the rear axle housing around the drive shaft axis. In a one legger (non limited slip or non spool) this action unloads the right rear tire and that's the one that will spin on a hard launch.

With Traction-Lock or any limited slip differential, you will get 50-60% power to the left wheel on launch. That twisting of the rear axle housing can cause the frame to twist also as a result of the torque from the engine. That and spinning of both rear wheels will cause the car to go sort of sideways on a hard straight ahead launch.

IMHO, you will do better to put unibody stregtheners (sub frame connectors) and pay someone to weld them in (even if they can be bolted). A fairly torquey engine does have the ability to twist and permanently deform these old unibodies that were never intended for much power.

Hope this long rambling post makes some sense.

Rev

Not a bad idea
 

Rev - that makes total sense. I have seen these sub frame connectors in the various magazines, but never really thought I would need them. I think I would be better off with the "Bolt on" style and then having a professional weld them at a later point. Thanks for he info...

TJ