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Old 05-13-2002, 08:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
Kisner
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Question Transmission to Radiator Lines

The transmission to radiator lines on my 68 coupe (C4 transmission) are badly bent and not routed properly. As a result, when I turn the steering wheel to the left the power steering cylinder is hitting one of the lines. I bought a brand new set but here's my problem - can't get them loose from the transmission. Easy to unscrew from the radiator, but how in the heck do you get a wrench in those tight spaces to undo the fittings. I don't have line wrenches but can easily buy, but don't know if they'll do me any good since I can't figure out how to get the wrench on other than at an angle. Would be easy if I dropped the transmission, but that's not an option for me in my garage. Anybody know of any tricks or special wrenches to get those fittings loose?
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Old 05-13-2002, 10:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
Maroon 5.0 LX
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Have you considered just cutting out the damaged portion and replacing that part? Join the old line to the new with brass unions.

Many trans shops just cut the lines when they remove the unit, and when it's put back, they use unions.
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Old 05-13-2002, 08:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I installed new trans to radiator lines on my C4 and it was a real pain. I did manage to get to the nuts on the trans using crows feet on a 3/8" drive socket.

I seriously concidered the cutting approach but could bring myself to hack up the new lines. However, another hour and a few more busted knuckles and out comes the hacksaw.
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Old 05-14-2002, 10:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Went to Sears yesterday and bought a set up consisting of a crow's foot, extension, and swivel connector. Was able to get one undone but the crow's foot is just rounding off the other one. If I could find a crow's foot made like a line wrench, pretty sure I could get it off. Just can't bring myself (yet) to cut the new lines. Other problem I discovered when I took the one loose is the ends of the fittings don't match what I have. The new lines came with the ends flared, but my old ones (where they hook to the radiator) have a rounded-type flare about an inch from the end. Don't know why they're different when the lines are nearly identical in shape and length. Excuse my ignorance, but if I do cut the lines, would I not need to the get the cut ends flared? Never used a union, but is it basically a connector for the 2 ends?
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Old 05-15-2002, 06:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I got tired of the route problems with headers. So I did mine with braided SS hose. Works great.
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Old 05-16-2002, 10:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Well yesterday was my lucky day. Decided on one final attempt and found one large adjustable wrench I had barely fit in the opening. After applying a death grip and turning with all the muscle I had, it broke loose. Replaced both lines and found the correct radiator to transmission line fittings at ACE hardware. Everything installed perfect with no leaks. Only problem I had was I had to remove the engine crossmember support (or whatever you call the curved large bar running under the engine) and when I went to re-install it hit the lines. Had to slightly bend tubes and they're still pretty tight resting against the bar but shouldn't cause me any problems. It won't be driven that much and it's so tight shouldn't be any vibration. Guess no repro part is exactly perfect. Now to next project - trunk lid. Decided to keep repro lid (even though it's not a perfect fit was best I could find and better than my rusted out, unrepairable original) since I was able to very slightly bend certain areas to get a pretty good fit and alignment (give it a 8.5 on a scale of 1-10). Now I've got to measure, make a template of some sort and drill the holes for the chrome molding. Am using stick on "MUSTANG" letters rather than even attempt to drill 14 perfect holes for the push-in letters. Sure wish it had come pre-drilled. Wish me luck.
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Old 05-16-2002, 11:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Kisner --

You don't want the new lines to rub anyplace, cause it won't take long to rub thru.

I think the new lines are 3/8" OD. Go get some 3/8 ID fuel or vacuum line, cut to length where rubbing, split it lengthwise and slip over trans line. This will prevent steel line from wearing thru.
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Old 05-17-2002, 09:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Awesome idea - never thought of that. Think I have some extra laying around already. Will do that this weekend. Thanks.
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Old 05-17-2002, 05:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hey guys i have a extra trunk lid from a 65 coupe {original} i know that would fit 64-66 so if anyone needs it let me know it is in great shape..
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Old 05-18-2002, 09:16 PM   #10 (permalink)
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On drilling the holes to install trim. Why don't you put 2" tape where the trim goes. Mark the hole locations on it. Then you can trial fit before drilling holes. Then just drill where you have the tape marked for the fastners.
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Old 05-19-2002, 10:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Got trunk lid molding holes drilled and everything lines up perfectly. Probably wasn't the best method but taped together 5 pieces of bond paper and marked holes from old lid. Measured and re-measured holes from bottom of lid and drilled away. Fortunately, the holes only have to be perfect from the bottom up since the bolts slide left to right.
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Old 05-19-2002, 01:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Sounds like a good method to me.

And it worked too. What more could you ask for.
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Old 05-19-2002, 02:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I think what I did regarding the transmission lines, was to unbolt the trans mount, remove the trans mount crossmember , disconnect the shift linkage and lower the transmission a few inches using a floor jack. That allowed me adequate access to transmission lines to disconnect them. After reinstalling new lines , the trans was jacked back up and everything was reinstalled. It's been a few years, but that's how I remember it.

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