Valve Adjustment Help - Puhleeze??

Wendell Allen · 10-05-2002, 01:50 PM

OK. So forgive me. My background is Bowtie. This is my first Mustang. You could call that a redemeing quality, couldn't you?

The motor I just finished rebuilding is finally running. But loudly due mostly to valve train noise. It's a stock 200ci, '65 model.

When I assembled the motor, I ran each piston to TDC, then adjusted the hydraulics to the point where there wasn't any play in the rocker arm.

The car starts and runs! Yeah!

But I'm wondering how to adjust the valves since the adjustment stud is in the rocker arm end. Because of my previous experience, I'm used to adjusting these things while they're running. But I don't know how to keep a socket on the arm while it's moving up and down. I feel like an idiot.

HELP!!!!!!!!

As Always...........
W

Rev · 10-05-2002, 04:03 PM

I checked my '66 shop manual for valve adjustment procedure on the 6 cylinder engines. It shows a non ajustable rocker arm and says to use oversized or undersized push rods to get the proper preload on the hydraulic lifter.

Since your engine does have adjustable rocker arms, you should be able to get the correct preload with the rocker arm adjustment.

The easiest way in my opinion is to rotate the crank until an intake valve is fully opened and then adjust the exhaust valve for that same cylinder. Then do the same to open the exhaust valve and then adjust the intake valve. All you're really doing is making sure the valve that you're adjusting is completely closed. It sounds like you adjusted the valves with no preload at all. That would cause valve train noise. I would take up all the slack, rotateing the push rod with your fingers as you tighten the adjustment down. When you feel resistance to rotateing the push rod that means all the slack is gone. Just give the adjustment another 1/2 turn to preload the lifter, putting the hydraulic lifter piston about in the middle of its travel.

After you do that to all the valves, you shouldn't have the valve train noise that you are experiencing. You do all this on a cold non running engine. No burned fingers, hot oil shooting all over everywhere or any of that. Try this and see if it doesn't work well for you.

Rev

john02b · 10-05-2002, 11:01 PM

I'am an old guy also, they say your only as old as you feel, could it be that i'am 150 yrs. old?
I think its only the rocker arm thats moving, the nut is stationary. You might try, tighten until the clack is gone and then back off quarter turn. I could be wrong, I don't think you should be able to hear the lifter though. I think I did it that way about 30 yrs. ago. Good luck, I'am sure someone will have the right answer, I don't think this is the rocket science part of auto repair.

mustangman65_79 · 10-06-2002, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by john02b
I'am an old guy also, they say your only as old as you feel, could it be that i'am 150 yrs. old?
I think its only the rocker arm thats moving, the nut is stationary. You might try, tighten until the clack is gone and then back off quarter turn. I could be wrong, I don't think you should be able to hear the lifter though. I think I did it that way about 30 yrs. ago. Good luck, I'am sure someone will have the right answer, I don't think this is the rocket science part of auto repair.

I was always told turn it till the noise stops, then another quater to half turn more.

john02b · 10-06-2002, 08:22 PM

You know what? Your soulation sounds better than mine, but I do think your right. Its been along time for me. I think no information is better than the wrong one. Sorry.
I'll still try to be helpful, but try to be more careful, and qualify the answer with something like, try this at your own risk. Ha.

Rev · 10-06-2002, 09:11 PM

John, back in the '50's everybody I knew adjusted their valves (solid liftrers) with the engine running , feeler guage, valve covers off, and oil spurting like a porno film.

Not necessary to do that with hydraulic lifters, Just do the pre load like I said and all will be OK.

Rev

PKRWUD · 10-07-2002, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rev
John, back in the '50's everybody I knew adjusted their valves (solid liftrers) with the engine running , feeler guage, valve covers off, and oil spurting like a porno film.

We did it in the 70's, too.

Take care,
~Chris

10-05-2002, 01:50 PM	#1
Wendell Allen Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 13	Valve Adjustment Help - Puhleeze?? OK. So forgive me. My background is Bowtie. This is my first Mustang. You could call that a redemeing quality, couldn't you? The motor I just finished rebuilding is finally running. But loudly due mostly to valve train noise. It's a stock 200ci, '65 model. When I assembled the motor, I ran each piston to TDC, then adjusted the hydraulics to the point where there wasn't any play in the rocker arm. The car starts and runs! Yeah! But I'm wondering how to adjust the valves since the adjustment stud is in the rocker arm end. Because of my previous experience, I'm used to adjusting these things while they're running. But I don't know how to keep a socket on the arm while it's moving up and down. I feel like an idiot. HELP!!!!!!!! As Always........... W

10-05-2002, 04:03 PM	#2
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Valve adjustment I checked my '66 shop manual for valve adjustment procedure on the 6 cylinder engines. It shows a non ajustable rocker arm and says to use oversized or undersized push rods to get the proper preload on the hydraulic lifter. Since your engine does have adjustable rocker arms, you should be able to get the correct preload with the rocker arm adjustment. The easiest way in my opinion is to rotate the crank until an intake valve is fully opened and then adjust the exhaust valve for that same cylinder. Then do the same to open the exhaust valve and then adjust the intake valve. All you're really doing is making sure the valve that you're adjusting is completely closed. It sounds like you adjusted the valves with no preload at all. That would cause valve train noise. I would take up all the slack, rotateing the push rod with your fingers as you tighten the adjustment down. When you feel resistance to rotateing the push rod that means all the slack is gone. Just give the adjustment another 1/2 turn to preload the lifter, putting the hydraulic lifter piston about in the middle of its travel. After you do that to all the valves, you shouldn't have the valve train noise that you are experiencing. You do all this on a cold non running engine. No burned fingers, hot oil shooting all over everywhere or any of that. Try this and see if it doesn't work well for you. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

10-06-2002, 09:11 PM	#6
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	Back in the '50's John, back in the '50's everybody I knew adjusted their valves (solid liftrers) with the engine running , feeler guage, valve covers off, and oil spurting like a porno film. Not necessary to do that with hydraulic lifters, Just do the pre load like I said and all will be OK. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

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10-05-2002, 11:01 PM	#3
john02b Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: brem., wa. usa Posts: 5	I'am an old guy also, they say your only as old as you feel, could it be that i'am 150 yrs. old? I think its only the rocker arm thats moving, the nut is stationary. You might try, tighten until the clack is gone and then back off quarter turn. I could be wrong, I don't think you should be able to hear the lifter though. I think I did it that way about 30 yrs. ago. Good luck, I'am sure someone will have the right answer, I don't think this is the rocket science part of auto repair.

10-06-2002, 08:22 PM	#5
john02b Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: brem., wa. usa Posts: 5	You know what? Your soulation sounds better than mine, but I do think your right. Its been along time for me. I think no information is better than the wrong one. Sorry. I'll still try to be helpful, but try to be more careful, and qualify the answer with something like, try this at your own risk. Ha.