valves

[jhun66stang]

I was wondering if anyone knew that torque settings for the valves on a 1966 coupe with the 289 hi-po. I can't find them anywhere...any help is appreciated

[bmxmon]

torque specs on the valves? They are held in by the valve springs(stem locks and what not), so im not sure what your talking about... Im guessing you talking about the rockers? Im not sure how yours exactly work,(some, like mine, have stops that you just tighten it to, others you have to adjust) as i havent delt with 289 hi-po heads before, though many on here have and im sure they will be able to help you out, assuming thats what your looking for...

[jhun66stang]

yeah i was talking about the rockers... but i don't know if it matters that i have crane roller rockers and not the stock rockers. Because one of my valves is clicking and i took the cover off and some of the rockers and slightly loose and i don't know how much i'm supposed to tighten them down.

[Rev]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure the 289 Hipo has mechanical lifters. That being the case, you don't adjust the valves to a torque setting. You would want to adjust the rockers to have a reccomended valve lash with the engine warm. You do that with a feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve stem. Almost any tune up manual or better yet, a Ford shop manual, will give you the proper procedure for adjusting the valve lash.

Rev

[jhun66stang]

thanks man i really appreciate the help and advice. hopefully one day i can return the favor

[jhun66stang]

I have been doing some research into the specs of the valve lash and the gaps and kept running into a problem. I don't know if this matters or not but i do not have a stock camshaft... I have a wolverine b 12 camshaft with the crane roller rockers and I didn't know if that would effect my gap or my valve lash....if neone knows that answer i would appreciate the help

[Gearhead999]

I might of missed something here, but first you have to know if it is a solid or hyd lifter cam.

Next, you have to know what type of rocker studs you have. The early studs were straight studs with threads on the end. The later model heads of studs that have a shoulder on them part way down.

The later hare tighten up with no adjustment. Hyd. only. The earlier straight studs must be adjusted.

Mech. cams need a lash setting. The heads must also have either guide plates or heads with small push rod holes that hold the push rods from moving around.
Roll the engine over till the valve is closed and set the lash. Go to the others and do the same.

Hyd. cams on the straight studs also need to be adjusted, but too Zero. Here's how I do it. Roll the engine till the valve is closed. Spin the push rod between your fingers and slowly tighten the rocker down till you feel resistance in the push rod. Then add 1/2 turn and stop. Go to the otheres and do the same.

Or, you can do it the messy way.

Mech. Lifters--Start the engine and set the lash with a feeler gauge as its running. Adjusting the rockers till there is a very little bit of drag moving the feeler guage in and out at the valve stem.

Hyd. Lifters--Start the engine. Loosen the rocker till it starts to clack. Slowly turn it in till it is quiet. Then add 1/2 turn.

This is a mess to do. A set of cut out valve covers helps alot. Or lots of shop rags. That's why I prefer the non-running method.

Good luck.

[texas66stang]

Hey ,This may help,on hydraulic valves you can get piston top dead center,spinn push rod and tighten at the same time,when pushrod stops turning,leave it and go to the next one and so on,remember to get them top dead center,Hope this helps Joe mine is 66 coupe mine runs great.Joe

[SCHOONER]

Originally Posted by Gearhead999

I might of missed something here, but first you have to know if it is a solid or hyd lifter cam.

Next, you have to know what type of rocker studs you have. The early studs were straight studs with threads on the end. The later model heads of studs that have a shoulder on them part way down.

The later hare tighten up with no adjustment. Hyd. only. The earlier straight studs must be adjusted.

Mech. cams need a lash setting. The heads must also have either guide plates or heads with small push rod holes that hold the push rods from moving around.
Roll the engine over till the valve is closed and set the lash. Go to the others and do the same.

Hyd. cams on the straight studs also need to be adjusted, but too Zero. Here's how I do it. Roll the engine till the valve is closed. Spin the push rod between your fingers and slowly tighten the rocker down till you feel resistance in the push rod. Then add 1/2 turn and stop. Go to the otheres and do the same.

Or, you can do it the messy way.

Mech. Lifters--Start the engine and set the lash with a feeler gauge as its running. Adjusting the rockers till there is a very little bit of drag moving the feeler guage in and out at the valve stem.

Hyd. Lifters--Start the engine. Loosen the rocker till it starts to clack. Slowly turn it in till it is quiet. Then add 1/2 turn.

This is a mess to do. A set of cut out valve covers helps alot. Or lots of shop rags. That's why I prefer the non-running method.

Good luck.

Hey GearHead999

Questions;

How do I know when the valve are absoulety close on my 289 engine when I'm adjusting my ~ Hydraulic Roller Rockers, stainless steel push rods and medium high cam ?

What is the order I'm suppose to do this proceedure?
My engine at present is on an engine stand.
I know I'm suppose to crank the engine by hand (wrench that is)
But what do I look for at the top end where the valve lifters are?
That I believe is where I'm suppose to look for closing and openning of the valves ?

How can I tell when a valve is OPEN or CLOSED
I believe I'm to start @ number one valve RIGHT

O.K. guy your tell me please.
explain nice 'n' easy.

GOD BLESS all you guys for all you help in the past and now in the future.

Schooner

[Gearhead999]

Well, since you are new at this. And the engine is on a stand. If I were you I would mark the balancer every 90 degrees, starting with TDC. [90, 180, 270]

Then turn the crank with a wrench, 15/16", till #1 intake valve closes and TDC lines up. There both valves are closed. Do your adjustment.

Then turn crank to 90 degree mark and adjust the the next cylinder in the firing order.

Do this eight times. Two revolutions of the crank.

When you're done, redo it to check.

Hope that helps.

[SCHOONER]

Originally Posted by Gearhead999

Well, since you are new at this. And the engine is on a stand. If I were you I would mark the balancer every 90 degrees, starting with TDC. [90, 180, 270]

Then turn the crank with a wrench, 15/16", till #1 intake valve closes and TDC lines up. There both valves are closed. Do your adjustment.

Then turn crank to 90 degree mark and adjust the the next cylinder in the firing order.

Do this eight times. Two revolutions of the crank.

When you're done, redo it to check.

Hope that helps.

Its me again Grearhead999

I got what you just said and I'll do just that ~ however, when you say Mark the Balancer every 90 derees; 90,180 & 270 How Do I Do That
I know that there are indentations on the balancer is that what I'm suppose to mark


I think I read some where; one marks the balancer with White Paint and then smears it off and the rest of the paint settles into the grooves on the balancer so when you time the engine you can see the markings better. Is that what you mean by Marking The Balancer

Hey Gearhead999 you plus other guys have helped me through some other areas of my rebuild and I certainly THANK YOU for that.

One other thing before I get to do the CLOSING OF THE VALVES.
BIG QUESTIONS:

How would you go about INSTALLING MY 289 CAMSHAFT

I was in an engine rebuild class but had to leave two weeks before I finished due to a death in the family and never got to actually install my 289 CAMSHAFT

My engine was in the class room and my instructor couldn't install it either. He tried to gently go thru the bearings with my camshaft. He couldn't get it passed the last bearing. He said that he'd have to SCRAP the bearing with a knife!
There was a Knick or something blocking the passage And he was going to use his knife to clear it.

Is that the right thing to do All this was done DRY without lube. I know that was O.K. for a test to see if the cam would fit ~ RIGHT/WRONG!

Now, Gearhead999
I know that you have to treat the camshaft with care and NOT TO MARK-UP THE BEARINGS EITHER.

O.K. Gearhead999 I know its a LOT to ask and to you others to answer such a L O N G request concerning:

MARKING AND BALANCER & INSTALL MY CAMSHAFT TOO.

CRANKSHAFT CONFUSION:

Why would hit the crankshaft after setting the connecting rods to the crankshaft

You figure the connecting rods are all properly set and the space between the bearing end caps on the crankshaft are all set. Now I hit the whole works with a hammer in order to set the distance between the front of the crankshaft to the engine block And this also sets the main bearing

O.K. I lied its (3) things I want to know how to do;
1. How to mark the balancer
2. How to properly install my camshaft
3. Hitting the Crankshaft in order to set the main bearing

Gearhead999 and all you others who can HELP this newbie I will GREATLY APPRECIATE IT

P.S. Sure I can read all this out of a book. However, I rather get it from guys like yourselves who have done it and know ALL THE LITTLE HIDDEN SECRETS OF DOING IT RIGHT

GOD BLESS ALL YOU GUYS

Schooner

[rwhite65]

Schooner-
Mark your balancer using some masking tape. I posted a pic using some green lines to illustrate what you are to do. The pic is just a rough Photoshop kind of thing, but gets the general idea across.

Ryan

[Gearhead999]

rwhite65, has the right idea for one way to mark the balancer. At my shop we use "White Out", you know the little bottle of corrective liquid you use to cover up a typing mistake.

On the Cam install. Hmmmmm, so he said it wouldn't go all the way in, and it hung up on the last bearing. Sounds like it maybe installed cocked. More about this later. First the normal way to install cam.

Have all the lifters out of the block. Lube the cam bearings and lobes with the assembly lube that is supplied with the cam. If you can find a long bolt that will screw into the front of the cam, this will help with the install. Makes a good handle.

Feed the cam into the block gingerly. Allowing the lobes to go over the bearing with out banging them. The last one is always the hardest to get in. If it won't go in, pull the cam back out. Go to the back of the engine, pull the welsh plug out of the block that is sealing the cam opening. Then take the cam and see if the cam will fit into the rear cam bearing. If it will fit, then there isn't a problem with the bearing. If the engine is out of the car. You can turn it on end and the cam install is a whole lot easier. If it doesn't fit, eyeball it and see what is keeping it from going in.

Are the cam bearings new?? If they are do you know who installed them?? Did they know what they were doing?? You know that the bearing are different sizes and have to be installed in a certain location, right??

If the cam fits, buy a new welsh plug, gook it up and install it nice and straight.

Hope that helps.

Now Crankshaft question.......I don't know what you're trying to do here. You have me lost. Give me more info.

Later,

[SCHOONER]

Hi Gearhead999

Thank you so much for you impute.
In ans. to your question about if my crankshaft is new. NO its not.
However, I had to taken down 0.030ths. and Balanced. If that helps to clear-up anything for you to help me.

I'm printing out all you suggestions and experiences to help me when I'm ready to install the cam and the crankshaft.

First things first: THE CAMSHAFT.
Here's what I entend to do ~ (that's after you check me out on doing it ) The student has to follow the teachers suggestions

HERE I GO:
I will install the camshaft DRY first to see if it fits properly. If it does I will LUBE the heck out of it and then install it.

If it doesn't fit and there is some knick in the NEW BEARINGS, I'm told it's o.k. TO TAKE THE KNICK OUT VERY CAREFULLY WITH A RAZOR BLADE ! YES/NO
If all goes well I'm lock the camshaft in with that small two bolt plate in front to lock it in ( don't know the name of that plate ?)

Anyway I'll wait to see what other directions you have for me.

THANKS AGAIN GREAR...999

GOD BLESS YOU AND ALL THE GUYS WHO ARE HELPING ME THRU THE MAZE OF ENGINE BUILDING ~ what a learning experience this is.

Schooner

[bmxmon]

I would just lube it up right away and install it first shot, if something is wrong you'll figure it out then anyways; plus less chance of knicking up the bearings. Get a long bolt and put it into the cam, makes a nice handle when your sticking it in there. I believe I used lock-tite on those bolts and I believe they have a specific torque setting they are supposed to be set too, something i didnt do. (oops, haha, alls well though) I agree with you, actually building an engine is quite the learning experience, it rocks! After I finished my engine I just wanted to keep building engines, problem is I was (still am) broke and didnt have any other vehicles that needed engines. (though I do now have another car, 67 buick special, which I already have another engine sitting in the garage for!! haha) Good luck man

[Gearhead999]

Page 2

First thing you have to remember when asembling an engine is to check everything, yep, take nothing for granted. You check it and compare to specs. It will save you in the long run.

If you roll the block upside down, main bearings up. Then with crankshaft out of block, wire check all the cam bearings to make sure the oil holes are lined up, bearing to block. Then check the cam bearing that it is question. Get lots of light and some mirrors, check for "nicks" or what ever.

I agree with you about dry fitting the cam first. As I said before a bolt attached to the front of the cam will help alot with the manuvering of the cam. If it fits, then lube it up and install.

Same on crank. put the main bearing in dry, then use some plastic gauge and check the clearances. If they are OK, lube and install main bearings and torque. Check for crankshaft end play.

Then use plastic gauge on the rod bearings as you install the pistons.

Hope all this helps.

Later

[SCHOONER]

Hey Gearhead999

You mention CRANKSHAFT ENDPLAY.

JUST HOW DO YOU DO THAT

I believe its done after the connecting rods and pistons are installed?
Then you use; plastigauge, dial gauge, and a brass hammer.

What puzzles me is: I install the pistons on the crankshaft RIGHT
Then when all that's in position I KNOCK/BANG the end of the crankshaft with a brass hammer for what reason ?
Aren't I going to KNOCK-OUT ALL THE SETTINGS ON THE CRANKSHAFT where I just pastigauged the connecting rods holding the pistons in place ?

STUDENT NEED YOUR HELP!

I know I'm out of order with the useage of these methods. That's why I'd like you to run by the procedure for me please.

I'm not up to that YET. But I print your reply out and use it when I get there.

Thanks again
Schooner

[Gearhead999]

You can, and should, check the crankshaft end play before you install all the pistons and rods. Just bolt the crank it, torque it down and check it. You can use a feeler gauge. But, it is a lot easier to use a dial indicator.