Door window installation advice needed

Kisner · 12-06-2002, 11:12 AM

After 3 1/2 years of restoration on my 68 coupe, I'm finally near completion. All that's left is re-installing the quarter windows, vent windows, door windows, inside quarter panels, rear seats, water shields, and door panels. Since I removed all the windows, I know how everything goes back and which screws to turn for adjustment. However, my question is on the inboard and outboard adjustment of the windows - shop manual doesn't go in enough detail. How far inward is the glass supposed to go. I wouldn't think it should touch the pinch weld area since when you shut the door it could shatter the window but I have no clue. Or, should it be adjusted to just snap inside the outer groove of the roof rail weatherstrip (weatherstrip over the doors)?

Jeff65 · 12-09-2002, 03:47 PM

Main and vent windows are adjusted to get 0.060" interference with the roofline weatherstrip. This means they bite into new weatherstrip by 0.60" after initial contact with door fully closed.

Note: you will only get 0.060" with new roofline weatherstrip. If adjusting to old, stiff weatherstrip, adjust for minimum touch.

Kisner · 12-10-2002, 01:16 PM

Fantastic! Exactly what I was looking for. With my calculations .06 should be right at 1/16 of an inch or slightly less. I should have also asked about the height too. On the outside edge of the weatherstrip there are 2 very small flaps (maybe a 1/16" or possibly a 1/8" long) . Can I safely assume the window stops should be adjusted so the door window is about .06 higher so theoretically the flaps snap over the outside of the glass or are they even supposed to? By the way, I did buy new roof rail weatherstrip. Thanks.

Jeff65 · 12-10-2002, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Kisner
Fantastic! Exactly what I was looking for. With my calculations .06 should be right at 1/16 of an inch or slightly less. I should have also asked about the height too. On the outside edge of the weatherstrip there are 2 very small flaps (maybe a 1/16" or possibly a 1/8" long) . Can I safely assume the window stops should be adjusted so the door window is about .06 higher so theoretically the flaps snap over the outside of the glass or are they even supposed to? By the way, I did buy new roof rail weatherstrip. Thanks.

I assume you're talking about the roofline weatherstrip and its shape. If I recollect, the window should pass under the first and contact the second. Its somewhat obvious and the interference should be with the second flap.

The vent window frame is an interesting case because its upper edge depends on the tilt adjustment and the lower depends on the positioning of the door hinges. For a finished appearance everyone expects that the door sheet metal should align. This may or may not give a perfect situation at the earliest (lowest) portion of the vent window. The upper tip should interfere 0.060 but it may have to dig deeper to get a good seal at the bottom. You have to exercise judgement here. Same is true at the rear edge where the aft channel determines window tilt. Ideally 0.060" is desired, but you may have some compromise to make. Like all assembly work, if you could do it twice chances are you could do a better job. Assembly line workers did good work because they knew from experience exactly what to look for. Don't you wish we had their corporate knowledge?

The 0.060" interference measurement is found in the Body Assembly Manual series (Ford Drawings) published by Jim Osborn Publications.

Kisner · 12-12-2002, 12:59 PM

Thanks for the great advice. Will be tackling this project this weekend. Hopefully, my hinges are adjusted close enough to not cause me any problems (gaps on doors are almost perfect). Also, as some experts advised, we pre-loaded the doors a 1/16" high to allow for the weight of the windows. With new bushings and hinge pins, hopefully, they won't cause the doors to move down any further than that. Will let you know how it went next week.

Jeff65 · 12-12-2002, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Kisner
Also, as some experts advised, we pre-loaded the doors a 1/16" high to allow for the weight of the windows. With new bushings and hinge pins, hopefully, they won't cause the doors to move down any further than that. Will let you know how it went next week.

1/16" preload seems about right...they won't sag very much with good pins and bushings.

12-06-2002, 11:12 AM	#1
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Door window installation advice needed After 3 1/2 years of restoration on my 68 coupe, I'm finally near completion. All that's left is re-installing the quarter windows, vent windows, door windows, inside quarter panels, rear seats, water shields, and door panels. Since I removed all the windows, I know how everything goes back and which screws to turn for adjustment. However, my question is on the inboard and outboard adjustment of the windows - shop manual doesn't go in enough detail. How far inward is the glass supposed to go. I wouldn't think it should touch the pinch weld area since when you shut the door it could shatter the window but I have no clue. Or, should it be adjusted to just snap inside the outer groove of the roof rail weatherstrip (weatherstrip over the doors)?

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12-09-2002, 03:47 PM	#2
Jeff65 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 208	Main and vent windows are adjusted to get 0.060" interference with the roofline weatherstrip. This means they bite into new weatherstrip by 0.60" after initial contact with door fully closed. Note: you will only get 0.060" with new roofline weatherstrip. If adjusting to old, stiff weatherstrip, adjust for minimum touch.

12-10-2002, 01:16 PM	#3
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Fantastic! Exactly what I was looking for. With my calculations .06 should be right at 1/16 of an inch or slightly less. I should have also asked about the height too. On the outside edge of the weatherstrip there are 2 very small flaps (maybe a 1/16" or possibly a 1/8" long) . Can I safely assume the window stops should be adjusted so the door window is about .06 higher so theoretically the flaps snap over the outside of the glass or are they even supposed to? By the way, I did buy new roof rail weatherstrip. Thanks.

12-12-2002, 12:59 PM	#5
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Thanks for the great advice. Will be tackling this project this weekend. Hopefully, my hinges are adjusted close enough to not cause me any problems (gaps on doors are almost perfect). Also, as some experts advised, we pre-loaded the doors a 1/16" high to allow for the weight of the windows. With new bushings and hinge pins, hopefully, they won't cause the doors to move down any further than that. Will let you know how it went next week.