WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

HI GUYS

I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT 'ENGINE HOISTS' :confused:

I KNOW I WANT A FOLDING ONE :)

I DON'T WANT TO SPEND OVER $200.00 BUCK :eek:

ANY AND ALL SEGGESTIONS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED :)

ALSO: ANY TIPS ABOUT HOW AND WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR WHEN I PULLING THE ENGINE ? ? ? :confused:

THANK YOU ALL AND GOD BLESS YOU GUYS :)

SCHOONER :cool:

Re: WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

Do you have a harbor freight in your area?http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46766
As far as engine pulling tips.............make sure everything is unhooked, then unhook the stuff you forgot as you bring the engine out. Take your time, be patient, be safe and dont drop the engine thru your windshield or ram it thru the radiator ;) :eek: Oh, p.s. dont forget to put a floor jack under trans. pan and raise it up as high as possible. ;)
Just checked for ya, 4740 s.decatur blvd Las vegas 889-9380 :D

Re: WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

Just a couple of tips. Sixystyle is right. Jack up the trans all the way. Make sure when the hoist is over the engine that the 4 chains coming down dont twist(one to each corner of the block). This will make it a little harder if they twist. A few nuts and bolts and some connectors and out it comes. Dont forget to mark your nuts on the flywheel so when installing the motor everything lines up. There are lots of great books out there on mustang engine overhauls. They will give you a step by step instructions on pulling out the motor. Hope this helps

Re: WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

Hey Sixstyle & Bears4ever

Thank you two guys of the tips on engine removal. I just bought a engine hoist and lever at: Checkers. On sale with tax everything came out to: $225.00

I think I do good.

P.S. What do I do FIRST. Un-hook the tranny first, then onto the muffer? etc.etc.

THANKS FOR PUTTING UP WITH THIS 65YR. YOUNG MAN . . . LOL

GOD BLESS YOU GUYS

SCHOONER

Re: WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

No.

First thing is to lock the wheels and secure the car.

Second is to remove the hood.

Third is to disconnect the battery.

Fourth is to drain the coolant.

Fifth is to remove the fan, fan belt, spacer, radiator...

Sixth is to disconnect coolant hoses, vacuum lines, and electrical connections... label everything...

Seventh is to disconnect the power steering and/or AC...

Eighth, exhaust at the collector.

Ninth, clutch linkage.

Tenth, transmission... I'd unbolt that at the back of the bell housing and leave everything else in tact until you get it out... or try pulling the transmission and engine together. That does get a lot more risky as you will need to make sure you've got plenty of height for the removal of it, the engine will mostly be over your head which is not a comfortable feeling.

Eleventh... hook up the chain to solid areas with grade 8 bolts of at least 3/8".

Twelfth... unbolt mounts.


DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING!!!! Things will break... wires will rip... metal will be gouged.

Wiggle... check... wiggle... check...

Once the bellhousing and transmission are free, things should go pretty easily.


Especially since this is your first time... now, I'm not a professional... I may have pulled a dozen or so engines, but I still love having an extra set of hands and eyes available. I've done about half of them without help, and it is a whole different story.

Please... PLEASE!!!!!! have a helper...

Even if it is your wife sitting there with a telephone to call for help, I'd feel better about the situation.

Re: WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

Getting it out is the easy step, putting it back in is a little harder. When I put mine back in (4 extra hands and eyes) I didn't line up the Tork Converter to flex plate, bolts into the holes. I reefed the bellhousing bolts to a snug fit to the engine. Had everything ready to go and turned the starter and the engine turned 3/4 rotation before the flexplate balance weights (Hard steel weights welded on the flex plate) broke the starter casing and then stopped. I thought I put the flex plate on backwards, pulled the tranny out to check it, it was on the correct way, took it to the shop were I had the long block done (thinking I got the wrong one back) and the Mech. pointed out the Tork Conv. bolt indentations on the tranny side of the flex plate, Boy did I feel stupid. Got it back in there the right way and had to replace the broken starter with a new one. Now I am in bussiness with a running 302 in my 1967 coupe.

Re: WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

Oh I forgot to say I rented the hoist for $40.00 (x's 2) it would been 3 pulls for the difference in a new one if I was going to buy one

Re: WANT TO BUY BEST & SAFE ENGINE HOIST
 

i would pull the trans and engine seperately. Ive found its alot easier. When you put the engine back in, put the engine in first, then the trans. Do you have an auto or manual trans?? I would assume auto's are alot heavier. I pretty much just bench pressed my trans back into place :) (manual). Remember, when you pull the driveshaft the trans fulid is going to come out....