What is a T-10
 

I was under my car today and I noticed some letters on the passenger side of my tranny "T-10" (along with a bunch of other junk) Is this the type of trany or does it mean something else entirely?

I should add that it is a 4 speed manual in a 64 1/2 mustang. Its not stock although it uses the stock mounts.

Are you sure it isn't stock? T-10 is a borg and warner trans that was used along side the ford 4 speed toploader. It is generally considered to be slightly weaker than that the toploader but shifts slightly smoother. It is a good unit. I have a friend who loves them and scoures junk yards looking for them. He has one behind a 350hp chevelle.

Yeah Im sure. According to the VIN my car came with a 3 speed. Its also a "U" car meaning it came with a 170 I6 im still trying to figure out whats in it now. If you can't tell I just purchased it. I bought it because the body and interior are completely restored like new. On the other hand the drive train is a mystery to me. I would be happy if I could get it down into the low 13's without making to many changes. I plan to start by replacing my 3.00 non locking 8" rearend with a 3.55 positrac 9". Suspension and clutch will be next to asure I get the most punch to the pavement but before I can start purchasing parts I have to figure out what I already have.

I wouldn't change the rear from 3.00 gears, I have a 9" with 3.00 gears in it. The higher gears alow a faster,mpore sure hook up, as long as you have th power to puch it. I have a 1968 fast back with a 302 and I run in the 10.80's with a 3.00 rear I hook get off the line then get passed and then gain it back again casue the high rear really starts pulling. Something to think about

10.8 in the 1/4 mile with a 3000 lb car takes about 430 hp at the rear wheels or over 500 at the flywheel. Pretty tall order for a 302 running at low rpm due to a tall rear end. Something to think about.

Going to a 3.55 is definitely a step in the right direction. Positraction will also help. 8" rearends, when properly built are capable of handling 400 hp which in more than enough to get into 13 sec range. The 9" is about 100 lbs heavier, hurting performance and handling. Are you sure you need a 9"?


[This message has been edited by John Z (edited 12-19-2000).]

No im not sure I need a 9" in fact after doing a little shopping around I have decided to stick with my 8" the cost doesn't justify the potential performance enhancement. Currie Enterprises quoted me $1,850 for a 9" rearend complete with Brakes and they quoted me as much to build a junkyard 9" to my specifications.

However I have switched gears a bit and I am now shopping for a good 351W Block. Once again its a cost/benifit situation. The cost to achieve 350+ hp from my 289 is only slightly less than starting fresh with a 351W. Also by going with a 351W I will feel a little better about switching to an Automatic which will no doubt help my consistancy at the track and who knows maybe my wife would even drive it.

Sounds like you're heading in the right direction. Suggest you check out two pages, the archives (project 11.99) at ford muscle and MustangSteves page. Both are for getting 400 hp, one with a 302 and the other with a 351W http://www.fordmuscle.com/ http://www.geocities.com/mustangsteve66/
good luck and keep us posted.

T-10, isn't that a REALLY advanced model of Terminator? Is it made by Cyberdyne or Skylabs ?

J.K. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/smile.gif

Just my week attempt at humor.
Sounds like its been answered anyway.

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347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, 4 wheel power disc
In a 66 coupe