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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() I have done this in the past with no problems, was just wondering what other thoughts were.
Are they supposed to be replaced? |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: PHILA. PA USA
Posts: 469
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![]() Usually you only replace them if they are strech bolts which are used on aluminum heads. I don't think you should have to replace them. I put ported e7 heads on my car years ago and used the old bolts. RAY
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#3 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() well, this is one of the many places that i wouldnt skimp on. theres no way to tell by the eye that the bolts are streached, and if they are, its a good way to blow a head gasket and you'll have to do the same thing all over again.
ARP head bolts are only like $40, good investment. I would reccomend that you get them if you want to have peace of mind about it.
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NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
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#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() My engines always get new head bolts. It's a small price to pay.
Take care, -Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
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#5 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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![]() Depending on the power level and compression level, I would make a judgement call.
I have been into my motors several time, always used same old bolts. THIS time, I am going aluminum heads and S-trim, so its new ARP's for me! ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() what about the intake manifold bolts? Waste of money? New arp's are like $25.00
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#7 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() IMO, anything that makes the engine look better, while providing quality reassurance, is not a waste of money. That being said, it's usually my customers money that I'm spending. Still, I always try to install new bolts where ever possible. It's difficult to tell a bolts strengths and weaknesses by sight, touch and feel. I figure metal is weakened, over time, by being subjected to extreme temp. changes. Engine bolts, for their size, are very much subjected to this, as well as the torquing of how many others? Chris, if I could, I'd buy you an ARP engine kit, but I can't quite afford that this week (Winter Nats on Sunday!!). If it was a small block Chevy for your sisters Caprice wagon, I'd say keep the old bolts, but for your 'stang, I'd go with new ARP's where ever you can. The 12pt SS bolts not only look great, but they make adjustments in tight quarters much easier. Plus, once you buy ARP's, you won't have to have this concern again in the future.
Take care, -Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Actually, now that I think about it, a customer/friend of mine who's wife works locally at ARP, owes me several big favors.
Hmmmm.
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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![]() lol....well, if you can score some bolt sets, I would make it worth your while...let me know...
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#10 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() I'll make a phone call this afternoon. Remind me if I don't mention it later.
Take care, -Chris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#11 |
Tubbed and Juiced
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,861
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![]() The stock head bolts are 1 time use only. They should not be reused after they have been removed. This is straight from ford. You "could" use them, but you "could" also change your oil at 20k intervals.
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#12 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Dangit! I forgot to make a phone call.
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Hayes, Va, USA
Posts: 798
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![]() Yeah I agree, head bolts are cheap, so why not replace them, seems to me the factory bolts now are all torque to yield so they are one shot throw aways.
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2002 5M GT (99% stock) 1991 5M LX (30% stock) patiently awaiting my satin silver 07 Mach 1, and don't forget the shaker |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: zachary, la
Posts: 73
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![]() mach 1, my friend and i did an aluminum head swap on his car and reused the same head bolts after we finished he drove it to normal operating temp and went back and retorqued the head bolts there was a slight movement in his bolts. next i performed an aluminum head swap on my car but i used arp head bolts. when i went back to retorque the bolts there was absolutely no movement. He never had problems with his and i never had any with mine since the head swap but i think the fact that there was no movement is just enough cause to replace them, it definately couldn't hurt.
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GT-40X(58cc)heads, cobra upper&lower, FMS 65mm TB, 75mm Bullet, 24# injectors, 190 lph fuel pump, moroso cold air intake, BBK 1 5/8 equal length headers, flowmaster cat back, 1.7 cobra rockers, crane 2031, T5Z gear box, centerforce dual friction, mcleod bullet proof bellhousing, 3.55 gears, hurst billet shifter with over 193,000 miles. thanks to all who contributed |
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#15 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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