Battery Relocation - parts question

Stang951 · 07-20-2002, 08:20 PM

PLease check this diagram and see if this wiring for the battery switch will pass tech:

I also need to know if 4AWG wire will be enough for the alternator to the distribution block.

Jeff Chambers · 07-21-2002, 06:31 PM

The important thing to remember is that deactivation of the switch must kill all power to the entire vehicle to prevent the possibility of sparking a fire if fuel is spilled in the event of an accident. I'm pretty sure that you'll need to have the switch placed in your circuit between the battery and the distribution block. This way power is cut to everything. I'm no tech official though so you really need to run it past an SFI certified official at your local track.

Stang951 · 07-21-2002, 08:04 PM

The distribution block has two purposes: 1. to make everything look neater, and two to feed the amp, alarm and radio. The rest of the car (all the stuff that makes the car runa dn stay running are on the solenoid side of the switch and can't get juice when the switch is off.
I just replied on the Coral and I think that I am going to try this set-up and see what happens. At least when I get my car back from the shop. If there is a problem I can always remove the fuses from the block so that there is no power going to the audio devices and alarm. That should solve the tech problem if there is one.

07-20-2002, 08:20 PM	#1
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	Battery Relocation - parts question PLease check this diagram and see if this wiring for the battery switch will pass tech: I also need to know if 4AWG wire will be enough for the alternator to the distribution block. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

07-21-2002, 06:31 PM	#2
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	The important thing to remember is that deactivation of the switch must kill all power to the entire vehicle to prevent the possibility of sparking a fire if fuel is spilled in the event of an accident. I'm pretty sure that you'll need to have the switch placed in your circuit between the battery and the distribution block. This way power is cut to everything. I'm no tech official though so you really need to run it past an SFI certified official at your local track. __________________ Jeff Chambers 1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH 14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter CRT Performance 2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH 2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2 "There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"

07-21-2002, 08:04 PM	#3
Stang951 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Metairie, La. USA Posts: 132	The distribution block has two purposes: 1. to make everything look neater, and two to feed the amp, alarm and radio. The rest of the car (all the stuff that makes the car runa dn stay running are on the solenoid side of the switch and can't get juice when the switch is off. I just replied on the Coral and I think that I am going to try this set-up and see what happens. At least when I get my car back from the shop. If there is a problem I can always remove the fuses from the block so that there is no power going to the audio devices and alarm. That should solve the tech problem if there is one. __________________ Engine: 1990 5.8 / Edelbrock Performer set-up MSD ignition Suspension: Maximum Motorsports Caster-Camber Plates / Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms / FRPP heavy duty upper control arms / Tokico Illumina Shocks and Struts / Ground Pounder Coil Over conversion kit front / Steeda cross brace sub-frame connectors / Drivetrain: Tremec 3550 trans / Steeda Tri-Ax shifter / Spec Stage II clutch and pressure plate / Spec aluminum flywheel / 5.8 in the hole

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