NMRA.....???

Rick 91GT · 02-19-2001, 12:04 AM

Just wondering how they class you after you register and get your ID number. I would like to race at Maple Grove this year and need to get registered.

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

02-19-2001, 08:39 AM

You need to select a class when you register. Visit their website http://www.nmraracing.com and look carefully at the rules for each class. That'll give you an idea where you fit in. Your heads won't allow you to run in Factory Stock, but you could run in Pure Street. Competitive times for P/S will be down in the low-11's or high-10's this year. Another option would be to run in their bracket classes or maybe the Open Comp/Drag Radial classes.

------------------
Jeff Chambers
T/S #3
11.97 Seconds/114.5 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

Rick 91GT · 02-19-2001, 08:57 AM

Jeff thanks for the reply, with a cam swap, and my new 4:30's, oh and a fixed set of heads I hope to be in the low 11's, I see no reason why I shouldn't be there. Did you do any updates to your combo this winter? I'll check out their site.

Ron1 · 02-20-2001, 01:49 AM

Only thing that might stop you after looking at the pictures of your car(nice car by the way) is the lack of a roll cage, and that of course ads more weight. The NHRA tracks really check out the cars even at the NMRA events. 3 inspections in Phoenix, 1 NHRA, 2 NMRA and number 3 by the local track guys. Drive line loop for slicks?

Ron

Jeff Chambers · 02-20-2001, 07:40 AM

I think you've got a ways to go before you'll be in the low elevens Rick. No offense intended at all, but it takes a helluva lot to propel one of the Mustangs down into the elevens with less than 310 cubes without a power adder. Like Ron says, you've got to start thinking about safety equipment as well. Roll bar (5pt minimum), 5-pt harness, scattershield, billet flywheel, SFI rated clutch & pressure plate, driveshaft loop, long studs (all four corners) are just part of the equation. I think you'll be hard-pressed to get there on the stock bottom end too. These guys are running race motors that are built, balanced, blue-printed, and optimized for racing. I hate to even think what I've got in my motor and I've just managed to break into the elevens! Suspension, there's a whole 'nother story. We're talking spool, 31-spline hardened axles, drag shocks & springs, adjustable control arms, tubular K-members, etc. Also be prepared to gut your car of every luxury, including sound insulators, stereo, etc.

I'm not trying to scare you off. Its great to go out and compete in a heads-up class, but keep your expectations reasonable. Tackle things one-at-a-time, watch and learn from others. Hang in there and keep your end goals in clear focus 'cause its a long trip and takes dedication.

Tom Payne set the Pure Street record at Bowling Green in September. He went an amazing 11.09@122+. You're looking at dropping 1.5 seconds and picking up 14MPH just to get you to last year's position; they'll go even faster this year.

------------------
Jeff Chambers
Trophy Stock #3
11.97 Seconds / 114.5 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

Rick 91GT · 02-20-2001, 08:29 AM

Jeff and Ron thanks for the replies, I like to keep a good goal in mind "I know it is slightly out of reach". I have a friend in a 93 notch back that goes 11.30's @ 119 all motor 306ci, with nothing elaborate, Stage II TFS heads, Holley intake, Anderson Cam, Power pipe, 75mm TB and a 80mm Pro-M, 30# injectors, 4:30's SSM lowers, 31 splines, stock fron suspension shock and struts, 1.50 60ft times and on 28" x 10.5" ET DRAGS. The car has dyno tested 347RWHP. I had a hard time believing it in the begining but I saw the dyno sheets and time slips.

Here's the scoop on my car
My car is sitting in my garage basically as a shell, all the interior is out as I prepare to weld in my 8pt S&W with the "X" in the back to the shock towers. I'm adding 2 JAZ racing seats, no back seat, all the deadon material is scrapped off and all the padding is gone. The A/C and PS have been removed as well as anything else on the motor that I didn't need, Air Pump and all emission stuff is gone as well since it is not required in my state. I have a drive shaft loop, SFI approved Lakewood bell housing, SFI approved flywheel, clutch, balancer and I will add the wheel studs when I add my new Superior 31 splines later this winter.

Holley is sending me a new set of heads since almost all of the valve seals were out of their seats, 1 was broke and sitting in the drain in the head. The heads flow good numbers I got 270 intake and 168 exhaust out of the last set and they were not port matched, 3/16" lip on some. The new set will be port matched which should free up some more power as well. I am adding a Anderson N-61 cam it has 110 lobe center, .544/.568 lift and 228/236 duration @ .050, I am fly cutting my pistons to accept the new cam. The last time up the car looked as it wanted to lift the wheels but with no traction it will not happan, I went 12.801 @ 106 with a 2.48 60ft sucking a ton of oiul through my motor due to the bad valve guides and shitty Holley cam, I also found out I had 1 bad 02 sensor. I now have my Ron Davis Radiator to keep it running cool, and a electric fan. I have added MSD coil and ignition. I have aspirations for the new motor since the car did break into the mid 12's in poor running condition, I always felt my MPH was way down though. The battery will be moved to the hatch, I have SSM lowers, re-enforced torque boxes, boxed uppers 5 degree pinion angle, 70/30's, 50/50's, Eibach kit w/ airbag, sub frames, no front sway bar and I was running 26" x 10.5" M&H RACEMASTERS, I have a set of 28" x 10.5" ET DRAGS but I am going to buy a set of 26" x 10.5" ET STREETS.

I will get it on the local dyno here to see what kind of power I am putting out this spring, but I need to get it to hook I was unabke to come off the line last year at any kind of RPM anything over 3500 resulted in major wheel spin in first and second even with them hot and sticky, it left real hard. I think it was due to my M&H's I hope the switch to the MT"s will help. What do you think?

Jeff I understand how much money it takes to get there, I added up how much I have in my car and it is shocking how much is just alone in the motor, not counting the $900.00-$1000.00 in suspension. I do all my own work so I get a lot of enjoyment out of a strong running car that I built with my own blood and sweat nothing can be better. I plan on adding a Tube K-member with HAL coil overs down the road but right now I am happy with the way the car should be.

Sorry this was so long but I wanted to give you guys all the info I think you need to know about my combo. Any help, ideas or comments you guys have is great.

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

[This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 02-20-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 02-20-2001).]

02-20-2001, 06:15 PM

You've obviously got a better handle on things than I originally gave you credit for. How heavy is your friend's car? With 347 RWHP he's doing fantastic to get down to 11.30's. I made 325RWHP and only managed to get mine to 11.99 at 3200# weight. Of course that's on an 8.5" slick.

Watch your cam. P/S has a lift limit of 0.500" at the retainer. These N/A cars are really dependent on a good cam matched to the rest of the system.

Stick with the 28x10.5" ET Drags and go with a minimum of a 4.30 gear. You should be able to leave at no less than 5500rpm with short times right around 1.50 on those tires. The ET Streets won't cut the mustard in P/S.

Good luck.

------------------
Jeff Chambers
T/S #3
11.97 Seconds/114.5 MPH
Chambers Racing Team

Rick 91GT · 02-20-2001, 08:24 PM

Jeff, thanks.... do you like your FTI cam? I have talked to Ed about a custom cam but I think I am going to go with the Anderson grind until I add the blower in the future then I'll give on of Ed's cam a try. I have alsothought about building a 408 stroker and staying NA if I get hooked on the all motor thing, it seperatesthe men from the boys in my mind, it's hard to be NA and fast.

My friends car is a 89LX notch, it weighs 3050 with driver, he shifts at 6200 and goes through the line at 6350, he has a JMS chip to get rid of the factory rev limiter, it goes 10's on the new 125 shot. The times really impress me he drives 2.5 hours to the terack bolts the slicks on races and then drives home. I'm going to go on the NMRA pages adn really look at those rules, I also need to get a new rule book. I'll see yopu at Maple Grove for the Motorsport Nat's if your there, I know they sometime conflict with a FFW event. Thanks for all the comments and help.

------------------
My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

02-19-2001, 12:04 AM	#1
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	NMRA.....??? Just wondering how they class you after you register and get your ID number. I would like to race at Maple Grove this year and need to get registered. ------------------ My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98

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02-19-2001, 08:39 AM	#2
jchambers Guest Posts: n/a	You need to select a class when you register. Visit their website http://www.nmraracing.com and look carefully at the rules for each class. That'll give you an idea where you fit in. Your heads won't allow you to run in Factory Stock, but you could run in Pure Street. Competitive times for P/S will be down in the low-11's or high-10's this year. Another option would be to run in their bracket classes or maybe the Open Comp/Drag Radial classes. ------------------ Jeff Chambers T/S #3 11.97 Seconds/114.5 MPH Chambers Racing Team

02-19-2001, 08:57 AM	#3
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Jeff thanks for the reply, with a cam swap, and my new 4:30's, oh and a fixed set of heads I hope to be in the low 11's, I see no reason why I shouldn't be there. Did you do any updates to your combo this winter? I'll check out their site.

02-20-2001, 01:49 AM	#4
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	Only thing that might stop you after looking at the pictures of your car(nice car by the way) is the lack of a roll cage, and that of course ads more weight. The NHRA tracks really check out the cars even at the NMRA events. 3 inspections in Phoenix, 1 NHRA, 2 NMRA and number 3 by the local track guys. Drive line loop for slicks? Ron

02-20-2001, 07:40 AM	#5
Jeff Chambers Moderator Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Milan, OH Posts: 2,699	I think you've got a ways to go before you'll be in the low elevens Rick. No offense intended at all, but it takes a helluva lot to propel one of the Mustangs down into the elevens with less than 310 cubes without a power adder. Like Ron says, you've got to start thinking about safety equipment as well. Roll bar (5pt minimum), 5-pt harness, scattershield, billet flywheel, SFI rated clutch & pressure plate, driveshaft loop, long studs (all four corners) are just part of the equation. I think you'll be hard-pressed to get there on the stock bottom end too. These guys are running race motors that are built, balanced, blue-printed, and optimized for racing. I hate to even think what I've got in my motor and I've just managed to break into the elevens! Suspension, there's a whole 'nother story. We're talking spool, 31-spline hardened axles, drag shocks & springs, adjustable control arms, tubular K-members, etc. Also be prepared to gut your car of every luxury, including sound insulators, stereo, etc. I'm not trying to scare you off. Its great to go out and compete in a heads-up class, but keep your expectations reasonable. Tackle things one-at-a-time, watch and learn from others. Hang in there and keep your end goals in clear focus 'cause its a long trip and takes dedication. Tom Payne set the Pure Street record at Bowling Green in September. He went an amazing 11.09@122+. You're looking at dropping 1.5 seconds and picking up 14MPH just to get you to last year's position; they'll go even faster this year. ------------------ Jeff Chambers Trophy Stock #3 11.97 Seconds / 114.5 MPH Chambers Racing Team

02-20-2001, 08:29 AM	#6
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Jeff and Ron thanks for the replies, I like to keep a good goal in mind "I know it is slightly out of reach". I have a friend in a 93 notch back that goes 11.30's @ 119 all motor 306ci, with nothing elaborate, Stage II TFS heads, Holley intake, Anderson Cam, Power pipe, 75mm TB and a 80mm Pro-M, 30# injectors, 4:30's SSM lowers, 31 splines, stock fron suspension shock and struts, 1.50 60ft times and on 28" x 10.5" ET DRAGS. The car has dyno tested 347RWHP. I had a hard time believing it in the begining but I saw the dyno sheets and time slips. *Here's the scoop on my car* My car is sitting in my garage basically as a shell, all the interior is out as I prepare to weld in my 8pt S&W with the "X" in the back to the shock towers. I'm adding 2 JAZ racing seats, no back seat, all the deadon material is scrapped off and all the padding is gone. The A/C and PS have been removed as well as anything else on the motor that I didn't need, Air Pump and all emission stuff is gone as well since it is not required in my state. I have a drive shaft loop, SFI approved Lakewood bell housing, SFI approved flywheel, clutch, balancer and I will add the wheel studs when I add my new Superior 31 splines later this winter. Holley is sending me a new set of heads since almost all of the valve seals were out of their seats, 1 was broke and sitting in the drain in the head. The heads flow good numbers I got 270 intake and 168 exhaust out of the last set and they were not port matched, 3/16" lip on some. The new set will be port matched which should free up some more power as well. I am adding a Anderson N-61 cam it has 110 lobe center, .544/.568 lift and 228/236 duration @ .050, I am fly cutting my pistons to accept the new cam. The last time up the car looked as it wanted to lift the wheels but with no traction it will not happan, I went 12.801 @ 106 with a 2.48 60ft sucking a ton of oiul through my motor due to the bad valve guides and shitty Holley cam, I also found out I had 1 bad 02 sensor. I now have my Ron Davis Radiator to keep it running cool, and a electric fan. I have added MSD coil and ignition. I have aspirations for the new motor since the car did break into the mid 12's in poor running condition, I always felt my MPH was way down though. The battery will be moved to the hatch, I have SSM lowers, re-enforced torque boxes, boxed uppers 5 degree pinion angle, 70/30's, 50/50's, Eibach kit w/ airbag, sub frames, no front sway bar and I was running 26" x 10.5" M&H RACEMASTERS, I have a set of 28" x 10.5" ET DRAGS but I am going to buy a set of 26" x 10.5" ET STREETS. I will get it on the local dyno here to see what kind of power I am putting out this spring, but I need to get it to hook I was unabke to come off the line last year at any kind of RPM anything over 3500 resulted in major wheel spin in first and second even with them hot and sticky, it left real hard. I think it was due to my M&H's I hope the switch to the MT"s will help. What do you think? Jeff I understand how much money it takes to get there, I added up how much I have in my car and it is shocking how much is just alone in the motor, not counting the $900.00-$1000.00 in suspension. I do all my own work so I get a lot of enjoyment out of a strong running car that I built with my own blood and sweat nothing can be better. I plan on adding a Tube K-member with HAL coil overs down the road but right now I am happy with the way the car should be. Sorry this was so long but I wanted to give you guys all the info I think you need to know about my combo. Any help, ideas or comments you guys have is great. ------------------ My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98 [This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 02-20-2001).] [This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 02-20-2001).]

02-20-2001, 06:15 PM	#7
jchambers Guest Posts: n/a	You've obviously got a better handle on things than I originally gave you credit for. How heavy is your friend's car? With 347 RWHP he's doing fantastic to get down to 11.30's. I made 325RWHP and only managed to get mine to 11.99 at 3200# weight. Of course that's on an 8.5" slick. Watch your cam. P/S has a lift limit of 0.500" at the retainer. These N/A cars are really dependent on a good cam matched to the rest of the system. Stick with the 28x10.5" ET Drags and go with a minimum of a 4.30 gear. You should be able to leave at no less than 5500rpm with short times right around 1.50 on those tires. The ET Streets won't cut the mustard in P/S. Good luck. ------------------ Jeff Chambers T/S #3 11.97 Seconds/114.5 MPH Chambers Racing Team

02-20-2001, 08:24 PM	#8
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Jeff, thanks.... do you like your FTI cam? I have talked to Ed about a custom cam but I think I am going to go with the Anderson grind until I add the blower in the future then I'll give on of Ed's cam a try. I have alsothought about building a 408 stroker and staying NA if I get hooked on the all motor thing, it seperatesthe men from the boys in my mind, it's hard to be NA and fast. My friends car is a 89LX notch, it weighs 3050 with driver, he shifts at 6200 and goes through the line at 6350, he has a JMS chip to get rid of the factory rev limiter, it goes 10's on the new 125 shot. The times really impress me he drives 2.5 hours to the terack bolts the slicks on races and then drives home. I'm going to go on the NMRA pages adn really look at those rules, I also need to get a new rule book. I'll see yopu at Maple Grove for the Motorsport Nat's if your there, I know they sometime conflict with a FFW event. Thanks for all the comments and help. ------------------ My Ride Check Out My Site 91GT, Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60",Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes, 2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe, 2 1/2" cat back, 12" K&N Filter, RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air, Ron Davis Radiator, Full Suspension,3:73's, Welds, Best on new motor-12.60 @ 108, no traction 1.98