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09-08-2001, 03:04 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 81
|
launching on street tire
What is the best way to launch an automatic on street tires? Should I power brake or should i just gun it. Also is it faster to shift 1-2-D or just put it in D and go? I am racing a Eclipse GSX AWD with light mods and I need all the launching help I can get. Thankyou.
------------------ 97 Mustang GT Convertible http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1858 K&N filter No silencer Sidewinder 5000 Alarm Gotta love Rice cuase they always travel in groups so you can embaress them in front of their buds. |
09-08-2001, 03:15 PM | #2 |
street racing junkie
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 231
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I would heat the tires up real good. Then hold your brake while giving it gas until the tires are about to spin then wait for the launch signal. Run through your gears dont let the trans do it. It will shift before its power peak.
------------------ 95 gt:edelbrock intake and heads, 70mm throttle body, 75mm mass air meter, 2040 cam, 1.7 cobra rockers, bbk equal lengths, super chip, 24lb injectors, under drive pulleys, 3;73 gears, cold air induction, Has other mods but not too sure what my mechanic did---lost the list. hoping for low 11's in the 1/4 mile. was dynoed at 374 hp. [This message has been edited by bri32z (edited 09-09-2001).] |
09-09-2001, 10:21 AM | #3 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
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don't mess with "heating up your tires", on a street tire it does nothing, and on the street, it does even less. if you do go to the drag strip, you should do a quick burnout (1 sec) just to clean off the tires.
you like dancin? you better, cause its time for...The AOD Shuffle! ok, start by putting your car into 1 (alllll the way down, press the button and put it back). put your left foot on the brake, and use your right foot to bring the revs to ~1000. when you are ready to go (don't sit like that too long, it will burn up your converter) release the brake and slowly depress the throttle. when the revs hit 4800, push the "gear selector lever" up one notch (to the "D" position). the tranny takes about 300 rpm to shift, and once it has fully shifted, and youve waited a second, press the button and pull it BACK to the "1" position. when the revs hit 4800 again, put it in "D" and leave it there. finally, when they hit 4800 put it into "OD", but by that time you will really be movin....i do the entire 1/4 in 2 gears, going just out of the powerband on my 90LX convert. a stock mustang stops making power at about 5100ish,so given it takes 300 rpm for the anchor to shift, you move the shifter at 4800. your AOD has 4 gears, the "1" position only lets the tranny use first gear, the "D" position lets it use the first 3 (1,2,3 DUH!) and the "OD" position lets it use all 4. the problem is that if you let the transmission shift itself, it does so a few hundred rpm too early, this is worth a couple tenths in the 1/4. the other problem is that you only have a distinct position for 1st gear (the "1" position), and the first 3 (the "D" position). in order to keep it in 2nd gear till the perscribed rpm, you have to bring the shifter back to the "1" position, after letting it shift (by moving it from "1" to "D" and then back to "1"). Cause you have to do so much fancy work, its the aod shuffle. now, be careful when you are shifting into 2nd gear that you put it in the "D" position and leave it there long enough that it is completely done, before you bring it back to "1" otherwise it will downshift to 1st and that would be bad. if you ever feel quesy about doing this, just push the shifter forward as far as you can (WITHOUT pushing the button) and it will stop at "OD". |
09-09-2001, 03:20 PM | #4 |
street racing junkie
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 231
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You mean I am wasting good tires when I do burnouts? Well you learn something new everyday.
------------------ 95 gt:edelbrock intake and heads ported and matched, 70mm throttle body, 75mm mass air meter, 2040 cam, 1.7 cobra rockers, bbk equal lengths,high flow h-pipe(bbk) super chip, 24lb injectors,190lph fuel pump(bbk), under drive pulleys, 3;73 gears, cold air induction(bbk), Has other mods but not too sure what my mechanic did---lost the list. hoping for low 11's in the 1/4 mile. was dynoed at 374 hp. Will be putting in a 347 block balanced. |
09-09-2001, 09:49 PM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 244
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I agree with Dinomite. Heating a STEEL belted radial just makes it expand (gives a result like overinflating the tire). Then when you launch the tire just spins(no flex). Just do a little tire cleaner, avoid the water box, don't deep stage, and dance like a monkey! Good luck
------------------ 347 (Coast High short block), 279/284, TFS TW heads, Stealth, 750 Holley, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, March serpentine pulley system, Art Carr C-4 (Soon to be a Richmond 6 spd), Currie 9" w/3.50, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, Total Control subframes & tower braces, Trans Am Racing power dual master, 4 wheel disc, 17x8 Torqthrust II's Something up my sleeve In a 66 coupe |
09-10-2001, 04:33 PM | #6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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I don't have a AOD, but I love when Dinomite does that dance thing ! I totally agree.....long burnouts on streets will do nothing helpful - it'll actually hurt you. Another thing, that noone mentioned, I would let some air out of your rear tires (till it just barely "bubbles out" on the road.......VERY helpful! Good luck - let us know how your dancin' goes! P.S. Practice some launches before then!
------------------ '90 LX 5.0;12K original miles (no sh*&);3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside welded subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini's 3" turbo hood;A/C delete; gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS chip; Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113 - 1.78 60') |
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