02GT vs TypeR 00
 

It was 4 in the morning I pull up to the lights look next to me and see a TypeR we never looked at each other gave any signals to race but when the light turned green we took off normally but them both hammered the gas second gear I got a little jump didn't red line cause my car is still brand new (500km) third gear didn't red line get a little jump on him now I was about ahalf a car on him when I put it in fourth I started walking him the car still surprised me but next time im starting with a drop clutch, i know shouldnt of pushed the car until at least 1000km but I couldn't let a TypeR do that to me and It was a good opportunity to race one.

how did you know it was a type r? it might have just been a ricer with a type r badge.

:D

Even if it was a Type R, gtsteve still would have kicked its asss!

I knew it was a TypeR because I knew the guy from school the only mods I know he had were a filter and a pair of volk rims I forgot to mention that I had my traction control on that why he might of kept up to me on that start

Not bad. Acura should really do something with the Type R. It's too damn slow. My friend's 00 Malibu V6 kept dead even with one.

i saw a type R with all the BPU's run 14.2 in hot humid weather...fast no but quick...that car could break 13 in the right conditions...now try to follow him in some twisty back roads and ill bet you change your tune alittle

i have never seen a very quick Type-R in the straights. They are ok quick but they really have to be revved. I rode in one of my friends a couple years ago and that thing handles like a beast for being stock.

When you race most cars, I believe you take the motor to close to redline. I'm not sure if you do or not, but I'm sure the majority of other people do. Not trying to insult...just stating fact.

Thats very true. Im not sure what i was trying to prove with that lol :D Point is they are nice cars but im sure a 99+ GT would beat one in the straights

You know H (Inferno) :D

When you race taking a car to redline is not needed and can actually hurt acceleration. The ideal shift is to shift according to your power curve. Ideally you will shift according to your torque curve in the lower gears thus when youc hange gear the drop in RPM will land you right before peak Torque according to your powerband (If you have a dyno sheet it makes it much much easier) This isnt always true but 80% of the time it makes for the most effective shift.

Just thought i would throw my 2 cents in :cool:

Well D, you know that with higher hp car, your peak occurs at a higher rpm and the only way to effectively fall into the correct area of the power curve is to take the vehicle to close to redline. This is especially true with vehicles that have turbos, centrifugal superchargers or nitrous.

Here's 2 more cents...now we got 4 in the pot. :p

Ahh but even in higher HP cars it still depends on the number of cyl displacement etc etc. And that is really true with Centrifugal superchargers which make all of thier power at redline anyway. as far as turbos both you and i know that depends on the size of the turbo and type of racing. Remeber that i run road courses so Balls tot he walls top rpm power doesnt mean as much to me as a balance between mid and upper.

Now we have 6 cents. if we keep going we can buy a can of pop.

Well with road racing, most of the emphasis is on mid-range and having a broad power band is for the best. However, you still need a decent bit of top end and if you have your powerband set-up properly(mid to top end), shifting at near redline will keep you in the power band. We can go on and on, but I am sure that we are boring all of these other guys D.

Im from Nebraska im naturally boring :D

I believe you were right on the money with the first two statements; and yes having a dyno sheet that defines an individuals tq and hp curve does help. I'm not quite sure what you are talking about with the lower gears and the 80% statement???

You should shift when your hp peaks, any time after would be waisting time because your motor is back on the down swing of power, and anytime too soon will short change your motor's peak hp. The only exception, and maybe this is your 20%, is when tractions does not allow for you to reach your peak hp or your peak hp if beyond the capabilities of your motor. Your red line is basically what you shouldn't spin your motor past; it has nothing to do with tq or hp peak.

Sounds to me like some people should hit the books!

Keep your cents, you'll need them to help with your education!

I was referring to variables in different motor types when stating the 80%...Comprehension was a bit off but, my blame for imporper punctuation.

Your redline is set by the factory as the safest RPM you can run your motor without a greater chance of Valvetrain Failure or other possible problems including issues with shortblock etc (talking stock) ona built motor you should understand the parts you use and set to there.

We should hit the books? Then do you realize that Torque is what turns all the parts that make you move? Or that HP is calculated and based off yoru torque curve considering HP=Torque x RPM/5252. I also stated in the lower gears I.e. first and second and sometimes 3rd since the ratios are numerically greater thus multiplying TORQUE. Anybody that understands how power is transfered through gears knows that Gears Multiply Torque but Divide RPM, This is why your acceleration is greater on a 3.33 gear with a 4.00 final drive than compared to a 2.25 gear on the same final drive. Changing the final drive has the same effect, but this increase in acceleration due to the multiplied torque comes at a cost of actual Speed due to the division of the RPM that the motor makes to the wheels. That is why Torque is multiplied by gear ratios and not HP. That is also why manufacturers base the gearing of thier cars off the Torque and not the HP.

Although basing your shifts off HP is true in Top gears such as 4th and 5th. Before you throw insults understand cars better.

there how about 10 cents rolled into one package.

Um, maybe you need to re-read what was written and think about what you said for a second. For one, neither one of us said anything about spinning a motor past redline. I'm sure that that was a simple mistake and you got confused when you were reading the previous posts. As for your theory about shifting at peak power, it really depends on the power curve. Just because a motor is past peak power doesn't mean that it isn't making substantial power beyond peak. For example, a motor might make a peak power of 600hp at 6500 rpm and drop down to about 550 by redline of 7500 rpm. Shifting at 6500rpm will drop the car to say 4000 rpm where the car makes about 500hp but waiting til 7500 rpm will drop it to around 5000 where the car makes 550hp. Shifting at redline keeps the car above 550hp at all times but shifting at peak would drop it down to 500. No question as to what shift point would be better.

Maybe you should take all of the change and buy yourself an education.

****** i knew i forgot something else, thanks H :D

I spent all my change, I'm already edjumucated! :D

After reading and re-reading ltzDaLexus300 posts, your last post makes the previous much more clearer.

inferno, I get what you're saying and may have to look into getting a new dyno (to see if various mods flattened out my curve), but as much as your game plan makes sense it does not apply to my last dyno where I peak hp at 4800 and drop pretty quickly after that. So in my case it wouldn't make any sense to stay in that gear any longer than I have to.

Oh yes, inferno, maybe I heard the story wrong but from what I hear you want to beat ImportKiller then work the rest of us. That's pretty funny! Just don't believe what you see on that geocities.com page (as you can see from my sig); I don't!