Loss to a WS6
 

Im coming home from college today and i turn left onto a high way thats one lane going in each direction. The WS6 is right behind me as i turned. He floored it in oncoming traffic so i gunned it. We were both still in first. He hit second a lttle after i did, and i went into third a little too early because third gear seems to pull the hardest in my car. Middle of third before the cam really kicked in he had about a car and a half on me and cut into my lane. I know its a part of racing but I HATE LOSING, even though I should of lost to that car. But ill have to meet up with him again as soon as i get my sc-trim.

No shame in losing to a WS6 from a roll. Even with an SC trim you will have trouble with the modded ones.

atleast it was a WS6..not a civic! You done good bro....there'll be a next time.

Not bad man. They are really tough from a roll.

Go for a S-trim over the SC it will make more power, you can pick them up all day for under 2K used. Mine works pretty well (see sig) and I never have problems with LS1's regardless of mods.

is it ok to have 15 pounds of boost on a stock motor? All i know to replace is bigger fuel injectors and a computer if it doesnt come with one.

the only reason i ask is because everyone around here is telling me to be careful on supercharging a stock motor. What else would need replacing to run the blower and not have any worries?

I have no problems with the blower and 15psi on a stock short block just make sure you get it on a dyno ASAP so the tune can be safe. I would do the following things in additon to the blower to be safe:

GSS340 fuel pump (knowen as a 255 high pressure high volume)
Fuel pressure gauge
42# injectors
Maf tunned to 42's (prefer Pro M 80mm)
With these alone you will be safe. I have no tune on my computer just pull the spout and set to 20^.

If you have more money work on exhasut next.

You may need to change the Fuel pressure regulator if you run alot of boost and change the injectors, to help with tuning. I wouldn't add a blower without full exhaust but I'm funny that way. If you add alot of boost you may want to upgrade the cooling system.

Sedanman, are you sure about 42# injectors with an otherwise stock long block. I never heard anyone say or do that before.. seems wayyy over injected to me.

Good point, I forgot about the stock heads I would due 36#'s then. As for the cooling system don't worry about it unless it gives you problems, my car still has the stock cooling system (180thermostat and pepboys waterpump).

Exhaust would be a good idea asap because a good exhaust will lessen the strain on the motor with big boost.

With something like a S-trim, he has the ability to grow into it. It's not going to pump out 15 psi straight out of the box...more like 9 or 10 psi. He could run the stock boost level until he addresses the cooling and/or exhaust then once those are done, he has the option of going to a bigger crank pulley or a smaller blower pulley for more boost. :cool:

Stock injectors will work with the S-trim@8# of boost. They come with an fmu to compensate.

They do come with a FMU but I would opt for bigger injectors and tossing the FMU into a dumpster. I think the car is much easier to tune without a FMU and there is something about 100psi of fuel pressure that would make me cringe.

Well... you are supposed to add 3psi of fuel for each # of boost so it would be 63psi of fuel at the most, for 8#s. I know what you are saying but on a stock motor with 8#s of S-trim boost I'd just use the FMU. Its safe and well tested. Better heads or something and I can see ditching the FMU and getting a dyno tune.
As far as the exhaust, if you added a blower without good headers you are just working against yourself. Why spend $2k and let the exhaust hold you up? This is one of the instances where the exhaust is worth quite a bit in HP.

I agree that exhaust is almost neccessary with a blower setup, it can make the combustion chamber very hot by not allowing the ehxaust to get out. As for the FMU, I have rarely seen a car with a FMU run good, usually the FMU puts in to much fuel pressure early on and makes it run pig rich then when you get into boost it finally levels out. But what you end up with is a good peak power but poor power under the curve and thats what is the most important on a street car.

You would add 3 psi of fuel if the FMU was a 3:1 ratio. I know my Paxton FMU came with a FMU with a 12:1 disc. That means for every pound of boost, the FMU would add 12 psi of fuel. I don't know what the S-trim's FMU disc is set at but I'm pretty sure it's not 3:1.


EDIT: Now that I think about it, a 6:1 callibration would be for 30-36# injectors.....so a 3:1 would work with 42# injectors....but if he went with 42's, there would be no need for the FMU anymore. LOL I'm starting to cornfuse myself.

I was wanting to get bigger injectors for my car and ditch the FMU and get a good dyno tune. I just hadn't gotten to it before the head gasket and now knocking engine. My car has 30# injectors and was running pig rich, I mean it was bad. I would adjust the fuel pressure down to 30psi and it was still rich, I was afraid to go lower than that. I was trying to figure out why it was soo rich, I thought maybe it was the tps or the Pro-M was programmed wrong.. I'm glad you said that, now I know I need to ditch the FMU. But, on a stock motored car I would just run the FMU. I had absolutely no problems with the stock motor and A-trim.

To the original poster of this thread.. Don't feel bad about losing to a WS6. Those cars are bad. I ran one with the 89 and it surprised me that it was almost even until I hit 3rd, a girl was driving the pontiac.