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how to powershift an AOD?
I have an AOD hooked to my carberated 302. I know that to powershift you have to start in 1 then go to D and back to 1. at what RPM should I pull the shifter back into 1?
My car shifts way to early into 3rd when I'm racing ------------------ 4 cyl converted to 302 comp cams cam, ported GT 40 heads, Edelbrock intake, holley carb Turbo coupe rear with 373's 4 inch cowl hood finally done after what seemed like forever!!!!! |
when you shift to drive from first as soon as the transmisson shifts to second pull it back into first and it will stay in second.
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I did that once and the trans jumped back into 1st. It ran the motor to almost 7G's and scared the hell out of me.
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DO NOT DO THE 1-2-1!!
There are some on the board, that are good at it, such as Mach1, but I would recommend that you do not do this! I have had a few friends try and BLOW the trans after the first try. As you said, it may pop back and hit the rev limiter!! That will wind the tranny way to high. AOD's were not built to take that kind of abuse. Ian ------------------ Ian Sim webmaster@stangpower.com STORED: 1988 Mustang GT "Canadian Cobra", stock, AOD, loaded WANT XENON HEADLIGHTS AND WHITE FACE GAUGES? Visit my site: http://www.stangpower.com |
I have read that the 1-2-1 shift applies the OD band when you do this, which is not supposed to be good.
However I made over 150 passes in a 3600lb cougar, 4.10's, shift kit with 260000 on the odometer(Don't know if the tranny was original, probably second one). This was done on street tires with times from low 15's to low 14's. Never had a problem personally. Hold first to your shift point.(mine was 5000 on one cam and 5500 on the other). Shift to "D" then right back to first. Hold first till second gets to your shift point. Then shift to third. To the people who hit first. I think what happened was that when you did the 1-D-1 thing, the RPM's were not high enough when you did it. It will go back to first if the RPM's are not high enough, but will lock first out if they are high enough. Other than that mabey a tranny problem. I still have my tranny, works great. Just now I like a stick. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/smile.gif ------------------ 82 Mercury Capri 302. Comp. Cams Tremec 3550 3.73's 12.8@106 N/A |
When I installed my shiftkit and shifter the 1-d-1 shift was in the instructions on how to shift from B&M. Lentech Auto has a valve body that locks out OD and changes the shift pattern to 1-2-3 then hit a switch for OD. It is also supposed to increase the torque that the tranny can handle and "extend the life of the AOD." I will find out in two weeks. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...rd/biggrin.gif It's about $349 though. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...oard/frown.gif
------------------ 86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Crutchfield front kick panel speakers. "DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!" |
Yeah, the Lentech VB is the way to go. As far as the 1-2-1 shuffle. If you must do it, do it only when racing or at the track. Hold 1st until about 500 rpm's before your desired shift point and then push it to second. AOD's that I've driven generally have a 500 rpm delay or so from when you shift to when the tranny shifts. That being the case, I shift at 5500 so the shift hits at 6000. After you push it into second, I would give the tranny a second to engage the gear and then another second after it has engaged fully. After that, pull it back into 1st while still at WOT. Shift back into D when you want to hit 3rd.
Like 88Cobra said, it can be detrimental to the tranny. Therefore, I would only do it while racing. Also, avoid hitting OD at WOT to save your tranny. The best solution is to get a manually shifting or revised valve body from the likes of Lentech so you don't have to worry about it. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
what a pain in the a$$! Gosh i just plop my c-4 into first down to 1 and then wait for the light to turn green... after a nice 1500rpm powerbrake and much smoke from the 245's, as soon as i hit 2 with the selector, the trans nails second and it's marked with a spin of the tires... this allows the engine to rev even faster to it's power range.. then i just wait til 5800rpm to hit third... and i then plop the selector into D. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...rd/biggrin.gif see that isn't so hard is it? Usually i don't even get as far as 5800rpm in 2 before the race is over. Stoplight to stoplight baby!!
------------------ '63 Merc Meteor hardtop, warm 302, C4 auto, 2.25" Flowmaster Exhaust, '65 289 heads - ported/chevy valves, performer cam, edelbrock f4a intake, full length hookers, 600 holley, roller rockers, k'n, 10.5:1 hyperutetic pistons... mid 13's hoping to reach into 12's |
No MercDude, I think the pain in the *** is spinnin' at 3500 rpms on the highway because of no OD. AOD is the way to go on an auto. daily driven car (I'm talkin' driven 200+ miles a week). Sure it costs an arm, a leg, and three toes to make 'em run, but it's all good.
--nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
I don't get it. Why would you want to powershift an AOD (at least the way you're talking about)?
“…because, no one’s really gonna be free until nerd persecution ends.” ---Revenge of the Nerds ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe 8.8" Rear end w/ 2.73:1 gears (sucks!) (awaiting installation of 3.55s) Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Sucky Purolator air filter that's choking my car. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...gboard/mad.gif |
Fox Body,
Unfortunately, that method of shifting is the only way to get the tranny to hold 2nd gear with the stock valve body. The shift pattern is set up 1, 2-3, OD. When you shift into second from holding first, 90% of the time, the tranny either skips 2nd or just holds it for a second. Lentech makes valve bodies that will shift manually, however. They change the pattern to 1, 2, 3 and OD is hit with the flip of a switch (basically like the AODE tranny). --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
Okay, now I get it. Didn't know AODs did that. Thanks Silver. (but won't that kind of shifting rip up the AOD?)
By the way, I checked your site. You have a nice looking car (I also like the background scenery of the first photo). Big diff from the wreck photo. “…because, no one’s really gonna be free until nerd persecution ends.” ---Revenge of the Nerds ------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup 4" Cowl Weld wheels (15x6;15x8) Stock 5.8L C4 w/ shift kit 1.5" MAC full length headers Holley 750 CFM Edelbrock intake 2.5" Off road H-pipe 8.8" Rear end w/ 2.73:1 gears (sucks!) (awaiting installation of 3.55s) Front: 225/60/15 Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Sucky Purolator air filter that's choking my car. http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...gboard/mad.gif |
Fox Body,
Thanks for the complements. It's been a long time since I've updated my site...probably close to a year http://www.mustangworks.com/interact...gboard/eek.gif. I really need to do that because a lot of changes have taken place since then, mostly in the engine compartment. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
actually i have a 4000 pound car and i always power shift my aod well its a new rebuild with the transgo shift kit. the reason yours jumped back into first was one of two reasons either you were not at WOT or you werent at a high enough speed. those two things will cause that to happen. i do recommend only doin it when racing
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