Need advise!
 

So I line up next to what looks like a bone stock Eclipse last night at a light and proceed to get my a** handed to me by him. He beat me by a mile of the light (gf called on cell, distracted me), but I still should have caught him way quicker then I did. I've got a '95 GT convertable with a auto, K&N filter charger system, Accel plugs, wires and distubuter and a Flowmaster cat back system. My question is what should I do first to improve my off the line performance, gears or a chip?

Gears! 4.10's for your heavier SN95 'vert if you can handle a bit less MPG. 3.73's otherwise.

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Black '90 GT. Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back.

I know the feeling! It's tough having these "slow" cars, luckily I haven't been challenged in awhile so I've been free to make it look good rather than go fast. I'm almost done with that though... so I'm going shopping for parts in the next couple of months.

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'95 GT Convertable

3.73 gears. same problem that i have heavy (convertible) bad gearing (aod). i don't know why ford even sold those two in the same package, it makes for an extremely slow car.

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm hoping to have enough jing to swing both the gears and the chip, but if not I'll do the gears first. I heard that 3.73 could cause problems with the AOD though, should I stick with 3.55?

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'95 Chrome Yellow GT ragtop, KN filter charger, Dynomax cat back, Accel plugs and wires.

nooooooo, just get the 4.10's you'll be glad when your seeing the eclipse in the rearview, now, you also may want to improve the shifting of your aod too, ahh hel1, just do a t-5 conversion. lots $$ though, get some subframes connctrs too.

I have always been advised that a chip doesn't help unless the motor has been considerably modded...(cam, intake, heads)

-ed

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My Mustang
91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter,King Cobra clutch, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA: shorties,subs,strut tower brc, Comp eng. 6 point cage, dynomax 2 1/2" exhaust, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC cold air kit, off road h pipe.

That Eclipse must've been a GS-T (or better). It wasn't no stock GS or RS (unless something's wrong with your car or you completely suck at racing--which I doubt).

Go with the 3.73s.

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351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday) http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body



[This message has been edited by Fox Body (edited 07-10-2001).]

ok u have a vert and its a auto, so thats against u from the start. 4.10's might be too low of a gear for highway driving, and gas will suffer. i've always been told that 3.73's are a good all round gear for auto's that are daily driven. throw a shift kit in that tranny and that will help a too. as for a chip it might not be worth it for a few horse's, spend a little more and get a NOS kit. i'm sure you'll feel the difference in that NOS rather then a chip. oh get sub frames for the vert!!

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Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, custom interior

My buddy who was with me felt the need to remind me the stock looking Eclips got 3 gears of rubber while beating me, so I feel a little better. I think I'll take the 3.73's, and then the NOS.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

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'95 Chrome Yellow GT ragtop, KN filter charger, Dynomax cat back, Accel plugs and wires.

Don't bother wasting your $$$ on a chip at this stage of your mods (unless you have $300 to give away, but then, jst send it to me http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif) The 3.73's will help you BIG TIME. And the N2O.....well, that'll just be the icing on the cake.

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

QUESTION.
What are sub frames for a convert, and what do they help do?

I would do a gear swap and 3000 stall torqe converter and shitft improver kit. Then a 100 shot of NOS.



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Steve Stumbaugh

89 LX 5.0 5sp.
Removed air silencer
Motorcraft 8mm wires
Autolite platinum plugs
BBK O/R h-pipe

Subframe connectors aren't just for 'verts but imho, the vert benefits more than any other stang. They are usually boxed or tubular steel that are welded onto your chasis. What they do is make it a LOT stiffer and reduce flex. If you have a convertable, it's like night and day.
Cost is usually 200 installed, this can go up or down depending on the kind you get.
If I had a stock vert, the first mod I would do to it would be subframes.

Subs are a MUST for every Stang - right up there w/ gears!

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)