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Old 12-01-2001, 08:23 PM   #1
exgmguy
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Default Winter mods and a spring challenge

First off I want a 10 second slip more than anything. I went to the track around a month or so ago and got my 11.3 @ 125. My 60 ft was a low 1.7.

So far I have removed my interior, used a torch to "heat and peel" all that rubber mat that is glued to the sheelmetal, and taken every peice of insulation and dead weight out.

I also have my 6 point cage mocked up and just needs to be welded in. I will only get away with telling the track officials I run 12's for so long.

Of course I am keeping my 12SECGT plate to keep my pony on a steady diet of GTS Vipers.

I hope to get opinions about parts changes.

I have a 65 mm throttle body, with a C&L 73, attached to a panel K&N. What about a larger t.b., and a larger meter?

I also have equal length shorties. Maybe long tubes?

And my E-cam. Perhaps a different grind better suited to my Holley intake and ported TFS heads?

Lastly, injector size. I currently run 24's and make 309 rwhp on motor. But on spray I am a little lean up top. My fuel pressure is steady, but my plugs are pure white. They are Champion RCY9C's. I was thinking of going to 30's.


And for the challenge. A friends car that he just bought. He has no idea what it will run, but we played for a gear on the street and I pulled him a little. It was too little of a run to tell.

He has a 93 LX with a carbed 396 stroker, Dart Windsor sr heads, Super Victor, solid roller, Demon carb, with a race prepped C4 with 3.73's out back. We both will be running on 10.5x28x15 ET streets. So I have to get into a 10 to seal this one up. The previous owner said he went mid 11's @ 120 something his one and only pass at the track.
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1989 Mustang notchback
Warmed up 306 with a Procharger.
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Old 12-02-2001, 09:35 AM   #2
geronimo66
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Dude, maybe a 70-75mm TB, though that wouldn't be my first worry, longtubes would be nice though... another cam too. You should up the injectors to at least 30#.. cause' you know a supercharger is in the future.

I know it's is mine... provided I can keep a job. I'll put the bike up for sale or trade for an
s-trim.
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Old 12-02-2001, 09:48 PM   #3
Red514LX
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Well, I think you would pick up at least some power from a change to a Pro-M MAM, long tubes, and a different cam. Usually, with a more agressive cam though, you will make more hp at a higher RPM but you will lose some torque and perhaps some hp at low and mid rpm levels. I dunno if that's a good thing for a street car & street races. Regarding a larger TB...well, who knows?

To be honest with you, when you look at your setup and weigh the hp gain per dollar spent ratio, perhaps you'd be better off saving up for something like a 331c.i. or 347c.i. stroker kit. With a stroker you would definitely want to go w/ something like a Pro-M 77 unit and a different cam obviously. However, I don't think it would be super neccessary to change the throttle body or headers. Your awesome intake coupled with the TFS heads, and a great cam could wake your car up to the tune of another solid 50-75hp.

Or, you could just leave well enough alone. You have a 306/nitrous combo that runs 125mph in the 1/4. That's damn respectable.

I'm curious about the whole tar removal thing though. I've heard a lot of complaints about how road noise is greatly increased from rocks and such hitting the underside, the inside of the car is hotter, etc. In your estimation, is it a good idea to take out all of that material?

FYI...If you don't do the stroker...here's my vote for what mods you should do (and in what order):

1. Long tubes
2. Pro M mass air meter
3. Cam
4. TB
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Old 12-03-2001, 04:17 PM   #4
exgmguy
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thanks for the replies.

I guess if I look at the cost of headers and an H-pipe, (400.00) If I got 10 hp at the wheels I would be happy with that. The C&L piece is only 220.00 or so, and I could sell my meter to offset the cost.

Lidio of Alternative has built some damn fast Stangs and says a 65 mm throttle body is all I need for any 302.

I have also heard the same stuff about the rubber insulation material. I am not too worried about the noise or heat. I don't drive the car daily anymore anyway, and I already have a cage, racing seats, and no rear seats. I guess it's the price to pay.

I think an 11.3 with a 1.7x 60 ft. should be good for a 10.90 or so with a 1.5 60 ft. So as long as my T-5 hold up (thanks again Jeff) and I can get a good holeshot I should be golden. A 10 second streetcar is pretty damn quick anyway. You don't see too many real street cars drive 100 miles plus to the track and run 10's.
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1988 Mustang GT
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10.9 @ 128 with 8 psi of Novi 1000 boost!----STOLEN

1989 Mustang notchback
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Old 12-04-2001, 01:25 PM   #5
Skyman
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I dont think you really have much to do to get that 10 second slip.

Your car is going lean up to and thats probalby the first thing you need to fix. You said you werent gaining any power going from a 110 to a 150 shot. So getting that worked out alone may get you there. Also you should be able to pull off a 1.65 60' and that will knock off .2-.3 seconds easy. Everylittle bit in that 60' really counts.

The cage will definatly help you hook up, it did for me.

Skyler
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JBA Shorties, Bassani Cat-X, Magnaflow 3", Pulleys, 85mm Pro-M, Ported Intake, Soild Rear w/ 4.30s, Tubular Front End, X2C arms, 13lb batt, few others.
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Old 12-04-2001, 04:07 PM   #6
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I think you'll see 10RWHP from the headers. You'll probably see more than that in the upper RPMs.

Good luck!
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