Why is my car a fat pile of $hit?

fastang · 09-23-2001, 02:59 PM

I just cant get this thing straight. If you have any ideas PLEASE speak up.
My most important problem is that its just not fast. For the money and parts I put on this thing I did not gain anywhere near what I was expecting, (and I wasnt expecting 12's) Its a little quicker than before and it breathes a lot better up top but it doesnt pull like it should.
Secondly it wont idle correctly. I have to rev it up to keep it from falling on its face untill the IAC valve decides to catch but sometimes it wont catch at all. When Im driving and press the clutch the idle wont fall past 1800 ever untill I come to a COMPLETE stop....then it falls on its face or I rev it up untill the idle valve catches.
Lastly, (I hope) My breather cap setup is pushing oil up through the tube that the fumes are supposed to to through. Its pushing the oil up through my intake tube, through my TB and intake all the way through the heads and is making my car burn oil.

I just want the car to run mid-low 13's on the street with my drag radials. I really dont think thats a lot to ask out of my combo. Do you? The car makes decent compression and the rings are fine. She hit a 14.6 stock and with all the junk in my sig I doubt it would crack a 13 without really pushing it hard. Im begining to become quite apathetic about this whole thing. Maybe all the crap Chevy guys talk about Fords is true? I sure hope not.
Kevin, I realize that this probably doesnt belong in this forum but please dont close or move it just yet. I want to know what the people that frequent this forum think since I talk to them more often, thanks guys, Jesse. p.s. I havent had a dyno tune w a custom chip yet but plan on it very soon.

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95GT, TFS T.W. heads, Holley Intake, B303 cam, FRPP 30lb injectors, Scorpion 1.6 rollers, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, BBK Longtubes, Flowmaster cat back, March Pulleys, MSD coil, 9mm wires, Tremec 3550 trans, Pro5.0 shifter,10.5 Motorsport clutch, FMS aluminum driveshaft, weld in subframe connectors. 190lph pump, BBK adj FPR.

90dpscoupe · 09-23-2001, 04:59 PM

You cant ask a whole lot from a 302, no port work, fastang you have been here a long time, and would hate to see you leave dissapointed, have you ran it with that combo yet? imo, dragradials are crap, and i bet with some e.t. streets, you could pull off some low 13's maybe bettter, was it 3.55's you have? tell ya what i have learned from experience, you can have 500 hp at the wheels, but without (proper) gearing, and traction, its useless, id say, 4.10 grs, e.t streets, maybe a 100 shot, and watch you pull the front tires up off the ground!

dont worry, my car feels slow at times, but i think somedays are better than others.

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90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 98.17
Best 60': 1.9607

someday mods:4.10's, slicks.

SlowStang2 · 09-23-2001, 06:12 PM

I do not know what you run now, but I wouldnt go and buy new tires just to get into the 13s...maybe 12s but not 13s. You are making plenty of power for a 13 second ride. As far as driveability goes, sounds like the TPS needs to be replaced.

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94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it.

BTS88IROC · 09-23-2001, 06:31 PM

Because its a ford! hahaha...just messing

Seriously though, with those mods you should be in the 13's pretty easily. Are you getting any traction at the track? Maybe its time for some more suspension mods.
Maybe play with your IAC and see if you can get that fixed or even replace it. And like said earlier you could have a problem with your TPS. Hook up your car to a scan tool if you can and see if the TPS is working correctly.
And about your car pushing the oil through the breather cap and stuff it sounds like maybe your (IIRC) pcv valve might clogged. I had this problem before....but I can't remember if its called the pcv valve or not...

84LX89GT · 09-23-2001, 06:56 PM

In order for a car to be fast it has to be running right first. In terms of ignitability, oil is up there with diesel fuel and that will ABSOLUELY KILL your track times. www.fordmuscle.com, has an article about their Holley systemax heads that started leaking alot of oil (i know it's not what your car is doing, but it's for comparison purposes), anyways, the car is a low 13 second car and it ran a low 15 or something because it was sucking so much oil. I can garauntee that if you fix your driveability problems first that you'll be satisfied with the power of the vehicle. Good luck!

------------------
Mustang Parts Specialties ripped me off, don't buy from them.
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
my LX
'89 Mustang GT
my GT

09-23-2001, 08:01 PM

I'm new around here, and I'm not a professional mechanic or even a very experienced shade tree mechanic either so take what I have to say for what it's worth.
I have an 84 CJ7 that did the same thing! I know I'll catch a lot of flack for this but it has a Chevy 350 that was bored 30 over. In my case it was time for a rebuild because oil was getting past one or more of the pistons. The way I understand it, you should not have enough pressure at the breather to force oil out unless something like this is occuring. Someone please confirm or dispute what I'm saying. Good luck, I hate to see someone get frustrated to the point of quiting. I can relate, but you would probably just stumble into another Money Pit like I keep doing

Skyman · 09-23-2001, 08:18 PM

This sucks! It sounds like you are EXACTLY where I was at after I put my heads/cam/intake on.

Car wouldnt hold and idle AT ALL. Didnt feel very fast and just ran like **** .

ALthought it didnt eat any oil.

I went all over to people to try and get it running right. It took me over a year to cure all the idle problems and everything.

Make sure your TPS is at .98V. CHECK THIS, DOUBLE CHECK THIS, AND TRIPLE CHECK THIS.

Make sure your maf is hooked up right and your not having any problems there.

What is your timing and fuel pressure at with those 30lb injectors?

Explain to me whats going on w/ the oil, Im not exactly sure what you are saying. Butt that oculd be a big problem.

The MAF is calibrated for 30's right?

Try bumping your timing to about 16-17 with about 30-32psi of fuel pressure. Get your tps set, and put your idle around 1000-1050 rpm.

Unhook the neg on the battery for about 35min. Let the car sit and then hook it back up. Start up the car and let it idle for about 5 min. Take it out and drive it around for a while and see how the idle feels. This really helped mine out.

Also as my heads broke in I noticed a bit of an increase in power. (I think atleast).

I know nothing about those 95 computers except they are **** . Im guessing getting that computer fixed up right should help a lot also.

Does the car smell rich? How hard and high up does it pull?

Gotta get it to the track and see what MPH its really making too.

You sound exactly like I did when I put all my stuff on and it didnt perform for **** .

Also what spark plugs are you running on the TFS heads? You should run 3924's. If you used stock type plugs they aren't long enough to reach down into those TFS heads.

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

Skyman · 09-23-2001, 08:27 PM

Also as for the breather cap, everything is plugged off. And the oil filler cap is replaced with a K/N. It blows a little oil out onto the headers at HIGH RPM at WOT. But not much. And I never knew this untill I was on the dyno, and thats when we actually saw it.

Try one of those, atleast it wont force the oil down into your motor. Although, it shouldn't be spitting up too much.

Skyler

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-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

Unit 5302 · 09-23-2001, 08:32 PM

Have you ever had it dyno tuned at a good shop? Sounds to me like it would be well worth the couple hundred bucks to do it.

Skyman · 09-23-2001, 08:33 PM

I'm really looking over your combo, and it seems to me the only other things I could suggest are getting 1.7 rockers for the B-303 cam. I know a guy that had a similar combo with GT40 intake and GT40 heads, which arent close to your setup, and he had a B303 and gained 14rwhp going to a 1.7 rocker over a 1.6. Other than that maybe a MSD6a or other type of ignition box and loosing your shitty CA SN95 computer.

Don't worry, we'll get this **** figured out. Atleast your car runs. Mines dead.

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

84LX89GT · 09-23-2001, 08:48 PM

Hey Sky,
What happened to your car, why is it dead???

GP6T · 09-23-2001, 08:53 PM

Did you get new valve covers? Do they have baffles?

Vacuum leak?

gp001 · 09-23-2001, 10:02 PM

Fastang,
Are you using a PCV setup or just open breathers? When I first built my 347 I had 2 K&N open breathers and would blow oil out like you would not believe. My engine generated enough crankcase pressure to blow the RTV seal at the back of the intake manifold. I switched to a PCV & breather setup and no longer have the problem. Could the oil burning could be causing your computer to get wierd readings and hunt for an idle? Can your computer handle all the fuel changes? One of my buddies had a very similar problem on his vette with it constantly searching for the proper idle map. He had a new chip burnt and it fixed the problem.

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347 (Coast High short block), 279/284, TFS TW heads, Stealth, 750 Holley, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, March serpentine pulley system, Art Carr C-4 (Soon to be a Richmond 6 spd), Currie 9" w/3.50, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, Total Control subframes & tower braces, Trans Am Racing power dual master, 4 wheel disc, 17x8 Torqthrust II's
Something up my sleeve

In a 66 coupe

fastang · 09-24-2001, 12:58 AM

Thanks for all the replys guys. To answer a few quick questions first, My MAF does have the 30lb sampling tube, I am running the correct plugs, in fact I still have the burns on my hands from replacing them

, I just replaced my IAC valve 2 days ago, the compression is great and it revs way higher than I want to go and gets there FAST. The revs seem to build up fast but the car doesnt pull like it should. Im sure it would breathe past 7 but Im shifting at 6-6200. I raced a friend of mine in a fox who used to run DEAD even with me. I slowly pull up high on him now but I expected waay more than this.

90dp, before I installed the heads,intake and injectors I got her down to a 14.1 so Im sure she will hit a high high 13 now but thats just pitiful.

Ok, heres the breather deal. I have a friend who is a master tech and a smog tech that helps me with my car. He really doesnt want to put an open breather on it because they are illegal. That crankcase gas is supposed to be injected back into the motor and burnt because its supposedly bad for the atmosphere. So my breather cap is not a filter but a cap with a filter inside that has a metal tube sticking out of it. A hose from my air induction tubing is connected to the metal tube on my breather cap. So the crankcase gas is supposed to flow from the cap - through the tube and back into my intake to be burnt. But since I GRINDED the baffles out of my valve covers theres no resistance and its shoving oil all though my motor. I have some CHEAP *** valve covers but they dont leak a drop. Im going to buy the Trick Flow valve covers soon. In fact I might order them tommorow. I think that I will be able to use my smaller intake spacer which will be easier on my hood if I run those valve covers.

------------------
95GT, TFS T.W. heads, Holley Intake, B303 cam, FRPP 30lb injectors, Scorpion 1.6 rollers, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, BBK Longtubes, Flowmaster cat back, March Pulleys, MSD coil, 9mm wires, Tremec 3550 trans, Pro5.0 shifter,10.5 Motorsport clutch, FMS aluminum driveshaft, weld in subframe connectors. 190lph pump, BBK adj FPR.

Skyman · 09-24-2001, 03:24 AM

My oil pump is seized, so its not dead, but I need a new pump installed. (Pain in the *** ).

And yes you should expect 12's outta this combo with traction, and atleast 107mph.

Try bumping your timing to about 16-17 with about 30-32psi of fuel pressure. Get your tps set, and put your idle around 1000-1050 rpm.

Remember changing your idle screw messes w/ the TPS setting ,so you have to set them together. Many people over look this.

So wheres your timing and FP?

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

Skyman · 09-24-2001, 03:28 AM

Then pull the battery for 35min. Hook it back up let it idle for 5, no accessories. Take it for a mellow drive, as the computer learns things. Then get on it slightly more. Who knows how long the computer really learns, but it seems to take a while to adapt perfectly.

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

HiFlow5 0 · 09-24-2001, 06:56 AM

could it be the 30# injectors u have are too big for your set up? i just ran a check on the fuel system analyzer on this site. it said unless your putting out more then 368hp your over injection.

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89 GT AOD w/ shift kit, B&M rachet shifter, Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, K&N, 3 core radiator, white face gauges, custom interior, cobra R rims. 14.9 at 95.07mph with stock 2.73's.

89LX 2.3 Notch, daily beater!
MY89GT

09-24-2001, 08:03 AM

How much compression is your car pulling? Usually when you take an oil breather off while the vehicle is running and you can see a misty steam (oil) blowing out your rings are bad. Did you do a compression test or do you just think the compression is good?

As everyone has said when the driveability problems stop your car should run tons better.

Also what gear do you have? I remember you having a 3.55. If you are not in the rpm band you need to be, then all of the parts you put on will be rendered useless.

I highly recommend going to 1.7 rockers (or a bigger cam), however you may be close on piston to valve clearance.

The B cam was designed for carbed applications, that is why it has a real narrow power band. I personally don't care for that cam. You should still be faster than what you claim. I would take it to the track and run it, judging something on the street is not even close to what happens at the track.

Also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, that will cause the problem you are describing.

[This message has been edited by 88GT5.013.02 (edited 09-24-2001).]

95mustanggt · 09-24-2001, 10:03 AM

Jesse,

Have you checked for error codes?

I bet a dyno tune and custom chip would do wonders. Our computers are garbage.

------------------
1995 Mustang GT

Rick 91GT · 09-24-2001, 12:48 PM

That car should go 12's no problem.

Here's the correct fix for the Holley intake pulling oil, as I already went through it.

You need to take the PCV valve off that ugly Holley supplied tree and tap and add a pipe nipple to the intake tube(I have pic's if you need them, send me a message to Rick91GT@onemain.com) the metal tube on my 76mm C&L was great I used the boss that they put in for the N20. Then the PCV will pull vac at idle since the butter fly is open and it will drop out at WOT. Works perfect and solved all my oil issues.

I think the 30# are fine, I am getting ready to upgrade to a set of 30's myself. Mine goes lean up top, and increasing the pressure is a joke as the computer will reset it back to the factory setting.

I have a fairly simple combo and my 8.8:1 compression 302ci motor should go 11's all motor. That B-cam is holding you back, I would look at getting a custom cam or atleast a differnt off the self grind. I am very happy with my AFM cam, it made a world of difference to my combo, but it does require fly cutting it's a big one

Now as far as the breather goes, I have tried both the open and closed systems and it runs better with the closed system on my car. I currently have Fabbricated Alum valve covers that have -10AN fittings, I run braided hose off each one to a Steph's Breather tank and a closed breather on top, my car runs better then ever. Now that set-up is pricey Steph's are $69 each and the covers are $250 then the AN fittings and braided hose will run you another $100+ but it looks and works very well on mine. I think a set-up like the stock one would work just as good but I needed to replace the leaky Comp Polymers I had and went to this combo. The problem with the K&N is it will get dirty very quickly and that will cause it not to breath good and will kill performance, mine never spit oil at high rpms onto the header (thank god my engine bay is getting cleaner eery week) but it did get dirty fast and that got old constantly cleaning it.

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Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon!
<B>12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree

[This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 09-24-2001).]

09-23-2001, 02:59 PM	#1
fastang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: santa ana ca Posts: 1,349	Why is my car a fat pile of $hit? I just cant get this thing straight. If you have any ideas PLEASE speak up. My most important problem is that its just not fast. For the money and parts I put on this thing I did not gain anywhere near what I was expecting, (and I wasnt expecting 12's) Its a little quicker than before and it breathes a lot better up top but it doesnt pull like it should. Secondly it wont idle correctly. I have to rev it up to keep it from falling on its face untill the IAC valve decides to catch but sometimes it wont catch at all. When Im driving and press the clutch the idle wont fall past 1800 ever untill I come to a COMPLETE stop....then it falls on its face or I rev it up untill the idle valve catches. Lastly, (I hope) My breather cap setup is pushing oil up through the tube that the fumes are supposed to to through. Its pushing the oil up through my intake tube, through my TB and intake all the way through the heads and is making my car burn oil. I just want the car to run mid-low 13's on the street with my drag radials. I really dont think thats a lot to ask out of my combo. Do you? The car makes decent compression and the rings are fine. She hit a 14.6 stock and with all the junk in my sig I doubt it would crack a 13 without really pushing it hard. Im begining to become quite apathetic about this whole thing. Maybe all the crap Chevy guys talk about Fords is true? I sure hope not. Kevin, I realize that this probably doesnt belong in this forum but please dont close or move it just yet. I want to know what the people that frequent this forum think since I talk to them more often, thanks guys, Jesse. p.s. I havent had a dyno tune w a custom chip yet but plan on it very soon. ------------------ 95GT, TFS T.W. heads, Holley Intake, B303 cam, FRPP 30lb injectors, Scorpion 1.6 rollers, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, BBK Longtubes, Flowmaster cat back, March Pulleys, MSD coil, 9mm wires, Tremec 3550 trans, Pro5.0 shifter,10.5 Motorsport clutch, FMS aluminum driveshaft, weld in subframe connectors. 190lph pump, BBK adj FPR.

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09-23-2001, 04:59 PM	#2
90dpscoupe Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa Posts: 1,407	You cant ask a whole lot from a 302, no port work, fastang you have been here a long time, and would hate to see you leave dissapointed, have you ran it with that combo yet? imo, dragradials are crap, and i bet with some e.t. streets, you could pull off some low 13's maybe bettter, was it 3.55's you have? tell ya what i have learned from experience, you can have 500 hp at the wheels, but without (proper) gearing, and traction, its useless, id say, 4.10 grs, e.t streets, maybe a 100 shot, and watch you pull the front tires up off the ground! dont worry, my car feels slow at times, but i think somedays are better than others. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 someday mods:4.10's, slicks.

09-23-2001, 06:12 PM	#3
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	I do not know what you run now, but I wouldnt go and buy new tires just to get into the 13s...maybe 12s but not 13s. You are making plenty of power for a 13 second ride. As far as driveability goes, sounds like the TPS needs to be replaced. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it.

09-23-2001, 06:31 PM	#4
BTS88IROC Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Kansas Posts: 8	Because its a ford! hahaha...just messing Seriously though, with those mods you should be in the 13's pretty easily. Are you getting any traction at the track? Maybe its time for some more suspension mods. Maybe play with your IAC and see if you can get that fixed or even replace it. And like said earlier you could have a problem with your TPS. Hook up your car to a scan tool if you can and see if the TPS is working correctly. And about your car pushing the oil through the breather cap and stuff it sounds like maybe your (IIRC) pcv valve might clogged. I had this problem before....but I can't remember if its called the pcv valve or not...

09-23-2001, 06:56 PM	#5
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	In order for a car to be fast it has to be running right first. In terms of ignitability, oil is up there with diesel fuel and that will ABSOLUELY KILL your track times. www.fordmuscle.com, has an article about their Holley systemax heads that started leaking alot of oil (i know it's not what your car is doing, but it's for comparison purposes), anyways, the car is a low 13 second car and it ran a low 15 or something because it was sucking so much oil. I can garauntee that if you fix your driveability problems first that you'll be satisfied with the power of the vehicle. Good luck! ------------------ Mustang Parts Specialties ripped me off, don't buy from them. '84 Mustang 5.0 LX my LX '89 Mustang GT my GT

09-23-2001, 08:01 PM	#6
deciding Guest Posts: n/a	I'm new around here, and I'm not a professional mechanic or even a very experienced shade tree mechanic either so take what I have to say for what it's worth. I have an 84 CJ7 that did the same thing! I know I'll catch a lot of flack for this but it has a Chevy 350 that was bored 30 over. In my case it was time for a rebuild because oil was getting past one or more of the pistons. The way I understand it, you should not have enough pressure at the breather to force oil out unless something like this is occuring. Someone please confirm or dispute what I'm saying. Good luck, I hate to see someone get frustrated to the point of quiting. I can relate, but you would probably just stumble into another Money Pit like I keep doing

09-23-2001, 08:18 PM	#7
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	This sucks! It sounds like you are EXACTLY where I was at after I put my heads/cam/intake on. Car wouldnt hold and idle AT ALL. Didnt feel very fast and just ran like ** . ALthought it didnt eat any oil. I went all over to people to try and get it running right. It took me over a year to cure all the idle problems and everything. Make sure your TPS is at .98V. CHECK THIS, DOUBLE CHECK THIS, AND TRIPLE CHECK THIS. Make sure your maf is hooked up right and your not having any problems there. What is your timing and fuel pressure at with those 30lb injectors? Explain to me whats going on w/ the oil, Im not exactly sure what you are saying. Butt that oculd be a big problem. The MAF is calibrated for 30's right? Try bumping your timing to about 16-17 with about 30-32psi of fuel pressure. Get your tps set, and put your idle around 1000-1050 rpm. Unhook the neg on the battery for about 35min. Let the car sit and then hook it back up. Start up the car and let it idle for about 5 min. Take it out and drive it around for a while and see how the idle feels. This really helped mine out. Also as my heads broke in I noticed a bit of an increase in power. (I think atleast). I know nothing about those 95 computers except they are . Im guessing getting that computer fixed up right should help a lot also. Does the car smell rich? How hard and high up does it pull? Gotta get it to the track and see what MPH its really making too. You sound exactly like I did when I put all my stuff on and it didnt perform for . Also what spark plugs are you running on the TFS heads? You should run 3924's. If you used stock type plugs they aren't long enough to reach down into those TFS heads. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor 332RWHP, 350rwtq**

09-23-2001, 08:27 PM	#8
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	Also as for the breather cap, everything is plugged off. And the oil filler cap is replaced with a K/N. It blows a little oil out onto the headers at HIGH RPM at WOT. But not much. And I never knew this untill I was on the dyno, and thats when we actually saw it. Try one of those, atleast it wont force the oil down into your motor. Although, it shouldn't be spitting up too much. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor *332RWHP, 350rwtq*

09-23-2001, 08:32 PM	#9
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	Have you ever had it dyno tuned at a good shop? Sounds to me like it would be well worth the couple hundred bucks to do it.

09-23-2001, 08:33 PM	#10
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	I'm really looking over your combo, and it seems to me the only other things I could suggest are getting 1.7 rockers for the B-303 cam. I know a guy that had a similar combo with GT40 intake and GT40 heads, which arent close to your setup, and he had a B303 and gained 14rwhp going to a 1.7 rocker over a 1.6. Other than that maybe a MSD6a or other type of ignition box and loosing your shitty CA SN95 computer. Don't worry, we'll get this ** figured out. Atleast your car runs. Mines dead. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor 332RWHP, 350rwtq**

09-23-2001, 08:48 PM	#11
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	Hey Sky, What happened to your car, why is it dead???

09-23-2001, 08:53 PM	#12
GP6T Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: ANAHEIM CA USA Posts: 36	Did you get new valve covers? Do they have baffles? Vacuum leak?

09-23-2001, 10:02 PM	#13
gp001 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: So. Cal. Posts: 244	Fastang, Are you using a PCV setup or just open breathers? When I first built my 347 I had 2 K&N open breathers and would blow oil out like you would not believe. My engine generated enough crankcase pressure to blow the RTV seal at the back of the intake manifold. I switched to a PCV & breather setup and no longer have the problem. Could the oil burning could be causing your computer to get wierd readings and hunt for an idle? Can your computer handle all the fuel changes? One of my buddies had a very similar problem on his vette with it constantly searching for the proper idle map. He had a new chip burnt and it fixed the problem. ------------------ 347 (Coast High short block), 279/284, TFS TW heads, Stealth, 750 Holley, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, March serpentine pulley system, Art Carr C-4 (Soon to be a Richmond 6 spd), Currie 9" w/3.50, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, Total Control subframes & tower braces, Trans Am Racing power dual master, 4 wheel disc, 17x8 Torqthrust II's Something up my sleeve In a 66 coupe

09-24-2001, 12:58 AM	#14
fastang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: santa ana ca Posts: 1,349	Thanks for all the replys guys. To answer a few quick questions first, My MAF does have the 30lb sampling tube, I am running the correct plugs, in fact I still have the burns on my hands from replacing them , I just replaced my IAC valve 2 days ago, the compression is great and it revs way higher than I want to go and gets there FAST. The revs seem to build up fast but the car doesnt pull like it should. Im sure it would breathe past 7 but Im shifting at 6-6200. I raced a friend of mine in a fox who used to run DEAD even with me. I slowly pull up high on him now but I expected waay more than this. 90dp, before I installed the heads,intake and injectors I got her down to a 14.1 so Im sure she will hit a high high 13 now but thats just pitiful. Ok, heres the breather deal. I have a friend who is a master tech and a smog tech that helps me with my car. He really doesnt want to put an open breather on it because they are illegal. That crankcase gas is supposed to be injected back into the motor and burnt because its supposedly bad for the atmosphere. So my breather cap is not a filter but a cap with a filter inside that has a metal tube sticking out of it. A hose from my air induction tubing is connected to the metal tube on my breather cap. So the crankcase gas is supposed to flow from the cap - through the tube and back into my intake to be burnt. But since I GRINDED the baffles out of my valve covers theres no resistance and its shoving oil all though my motor. I have some CHEAP *** valve covers but they dont leak a drop. Im going to buy the Trick Flow valve covers soon. In fact I might order them tommorow. I think that I will be able to use my smaller intake spacer which will be easier on my hood if I run those valve covers. ------------------ 95GT, TFS T.W. heads, Holley Intake, B303 cam, FRPP 30lb injectors, Scorpion 1.6 rollers, 65mm TB, 73mm MAF, BBK Longtubes, Flowmaster cat back, March Pulleys, MSD coil, 9mm wires, Tremec 3550 trans, Pro5.0 shifter,10.5 Motorsport clutch, FMS aluminum driveshaft, weld in subframe connectors. 190lph pump, BBK adj FPR.

09-24-2001, 03:24 AM	#15
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	My oil pump is seized, so its not dead, but I need a new pump installed. (Pain in the * ). And yes you should expect 12's outta this combo with traction, and atleast 107mph. Try bumping your timing to about 16-17 with about 30-32psi of fuel pressure. Get your tps set, and put your idle around 1000-1050 rpm. Remember changing your idle screw messes w/ the TPS setting ,so you have to set them together. Many people over look this. So wheres your timing and FP? Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor 332RWHP, 350rwtq**

09-24-2001, 03:28 AM	#16
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	Then pull the battery for 35min. Hook it back up let it idle for 5, no accessories. Take it for a mellow drive, as the computer learns things. Then get on it slightly more. Who knows how long the computer really learns, but it seems to take a while to adapt perfectly. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor *332RWHP, 350rwtq*

09-24-2001, 06:56 AM	#17
HiFlow5 0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Springfield, Ma, usa Posts: 706	could it be the 30# injectors u have are too big for your set up? i just ran a check on the fuel system analyzer on this site. it said unless your putting out more then 368hp your over injection. ------------------ 89 GT AOD w/ shift kit, B&M rachet shifter, Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, K&N, 3 core radiator, white face gauges, custom interior, cobra R rims. 14.9 at 95.07mph with stock 2.73's. 89LX 2.3 Notch, daily beater! MY89GT

09-24-2001, 08:03 AM	#18
88GT5.013.02 Guest Posts: n/a	How much compression is your car pulling? Usually when you take an oil breather off while the vehicle is running and you can see a misty steam (oil) blowing out your rings are bad. Did you do a compression test or do you just think the compression is good? As everyone has said when the driveability problems stop your car should run tons better. Also what gear do you have? I remember you having a 3.55. If you are not in the rpm band you need to be, then all of the parts you put on will be rendered useless. I highly recommend going to 1.7 rockers (or a bigger cam), however you may be close on piston to valve clearance. The B cam was designed for carbed applications, that is why it has a real narrow power band. I personally don't care for that cam. You should still be faster than what you claim. I would take it to the track and run it, judging something on the street is not even close to what happens at the track. Also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, that will cause the problem you are describing. [This message has been edited by 88GT5.013.02 (edited 09-24-2001).]

09-24-2001, 10:03 AM	#19
95mustanggt Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: Kamloops, BC Posts: 2,875	Jesse, Have you checked for error codes? I bet a dyno tune and custom chip would do wonders. Our computers are garbage. ------------------ 1995 Mustang GT

09-24-2001, 12:48 PM	#20
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	That car should go 12's no problem. Here's the correct fix for the Holley intake pulling oil, as I already went through it. You need to take the PCV valve off that ugly Holley supplied tree and tap and add a pipe nipple to the intake tube(I have pic's if you need them, send me a message to Rick91GT@onemain.com) the metal tube on my 76mm C&L was great I used the boss that they put in for the N20. Then the PCV will pull vac at idle since the butter fly is open and it will drop out at WOT. Works perfect and solved all my oil issues. I think the 30# are fine, I am getting ready to upgrade to a set of 30's myself. Mine goes lean up top, and increasing the pressure is a joke as the computer will reset it back to the factory setting. I have a fairly simple combo and my 8.8:1 compression 302ci motor should go 11's all motor. That B-cam is holding you back, I would look at getting a custom cam or atleast a differnt off the self grind. I am very happy with my AFM cam, it made a world of difference to my combo, but it does require fly cutting it's a big one Now as far as the breather goes, I have tried both the open and closed systems and it runs better with the closed system on my car. I currently have Fabbricated Alum valve covers that have -10AN fittings, I run braided hose off each one to a Steph's Breather tank and a closed breather on top, my car runs better then ever. Now that set-up is pricey Steph's are $69 each and the covers are $250 then the AN fittings and braided hose will run you another $100+ but it looks and works very well on mine. I think a set-up like the stock one would work just as good but I needed to replace the leaky Comp Polymers I had and went to this combo. The problem with the K&N is it will get dirty very quickly and that will cause it not to breath good and will kill performance, mine never spit oil at high rpms onto the header (thank god my engine bay is getting cleaner eery week) but it did get dirty fast and that got old constantly cleaning it. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! <B>12.16 @ 113.5, 1.78 60ft..no traction in the 90 degree [This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 09-24-2001).]