Sliding around corners @ 75 mph !!!

jetuomi · 07-19-2001, 12:41 PM

Hey All

Last night in Waterloo (on University Ave for anyone in the area) I was racing a 328 BMW, a Camry (haha), and a civic, so I passed all of them, and rounded a corner holding 3rd gear around 4200 rpm.. it wasn't a huge corner, but, for no reason, my rear end slipped out, and I fishtailed around it, not out of control, but, you could feel the *** -end out a bit, it was really wierd !!

So, what suspension component do I need to keep the *** end on the ground more??
(lowering springs? better struts??)

thanks !!

------------------
94 GT (triple black)
K&N, FMS 9mm, FMS 95 17" Cobra R's, Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.27, 12* timing, MSD Coil, 180* thermostat, MAC Shifter/Gauges/Pedals, Euro Clear Projectors & Corners
My CAR!
Email me: jetuomi@yahoo.com

Smokedawg · 07-19-2001, 12:44 PM

I dont know much about suspension, but I know lowering it will help. Then you will need new controller arms too. Is your front sway-bar on??

------------------
347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

jetuomi · 07-19-2001, 01:25 PM

yes, have front+rear swaybar..

As I think about it, could it be the "junk" rear arms (upper+ lower?) that caused some flex, then it just let go??

the tires themselves grip well, so, it was kinda unexpected !!!

: )

07-19-2001, 04:42 PM

No, no, it's not the car at all...

It's that crazy Finn rally racer blood coming out in you!!!!

Seriously, the stock rear control arms are pretty much junk. A better set of arms will help along with springs, but Mustangs are still light in the backside....

------------------
91 coupe
3.73's,long tubes,2 1/2" exh,ported stock t-body,ProM-77mm
cobra intake,edelbrock heads,B303,1.72 rr's
36lb inj's,tremec, & a Paxton NOVI 2000!!!
11.020 @128.95 on BFG Drag Radials (275/60/15)

blue00gt · 07-19-2001, 06:13 PM

What happened to you was a result of the poor rear suspension design on our Mustangs. The stock 4 link has angled upper arms with rubber bushings that bind up when a side-load is put on them (i.e. when you are taking a corner). This introduces extra spring rate, restricts suspension travel, and does not allow the springs and shocks to do their job properly. When the back tires break loose because of this, all of a sudden there is much less force binding the arms (since your coefficient of kinetic friction is much less than that of static friction) and the rearend gets very skittish.

Getting a panhard bar will prevent lateral motion of the rearend and also allow you to get some upper control arms with spherical bushings that will not bind (obviously with spherical bushings and no panhard bar the rearend would have a lot of side play).

Of course, the best solution is to get the above and a torque arm, or the Steeda 5-link setup, but this route gets a little pricey.

------------------
2000GT Atlantic Blue: Cobra R Wheels-17x9 255/40/17, 17x10.5 315/35/17, tubular K-member & control arms, Tokico 5-ways, coil overs, sway bars, strut/shock tower bars, 70mm FMS throttle body, Saleen nose.
79 Pace Car: Maximum Motorsports suspension - H&R Race springs, Bilsteins, rear control arms, chassis bracing, Draglites, 302 w/ Edelbrock Performer intake, cam and 600cfm carb, BBK equal-lengths & H-pipe, 2.5" Flowmaster 2chmbr exhaust, Al Driveshaft, 8.8 trak-loc, TCI C4 w/ 2000 stall, B&M

jetuomi · 07-19-2001, 08:04 PM

ray, yeap, Mika was in my blood last night !
: )

blue00gt, thanks for the help!
I'm going to put those parts into my 3 year plan !! (haha)

so what would be the best component to start with ? sounds like start with lower control arms?? are coil-overs any good??

07-20-2001, 04:30 PM

I hope you appreciate how lucky you are to still have your car in one piece

once you start fishtailing violently there's not much you can do except "try" to steer it back and taking your foot off the gas a bit. Had you slammed on your brakes your story coulda been a bit different. After quite a few close calls myself i don't speed or screw around with corners at all anymore. You can buy handling kits from like Saleen, Maximum Motorsports, Kenny Brown, etc. that are split up into stages depending on your budget and are usually prioritized as to what you want to do. All it takes for the mustang rear end to slip out is a small dump around a corner to disrupt the balance and have your traction-lok kick in to get you going around....not so fun.

------------------
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
My car

blue00gt · 07-20-2001, 06:41 PM

If I were going to buy suspension components a little at a time, I would do it in this order:
chassis bracing
springs and shocks/struts
caster/camber plates
control arms
panhard bar

With my cars the next step is to buy a torque arm and remove the upper arms altogether (the panhard bar locates the rear axle laterally and the torque arm controls rotation of the axle, so with these two components you no longer need upper arms at all).

------------------
2000GT Atlantic Blue: Cobra R Wheels-17x9 255/40/17, 17x10.5 315/35/17, tubular K-member & control arms, Tokico 5-ways, coil overs, sway bars, strut/shock tower bars, 70mm FMS throttle body, Saleen nose.
79 Pace Car: Maximum Motorsports suspension - H&R Race springs, Bilsteins, rear control arms, chassis bracing, Draglites, 302 w/ Edelbrock Performer intake, cam and 600cfm carb, BBK equal-lengths & H-pipe, 2.5" Flowmaster 2chmbr exhaust, Al Driveshaft, 8.8 trak-loc, TCI C4 w/ 2000 stall, B&M

dinomite · 07-20-2001, 11:22 PM

your easiest (cheapest) bet for now is to get some new control arms and some springs (fms b or c)

Phlea96gt · 07-21-2001, 11:48 AM

I lined up next to an older M3 at dusk one night. We pulled acroos an intrsection, going left. I had a full length on him (thank god) because I fish tailed, and would have clipped him...I am gettting some springs and larger rubber all the way around.

Vector · 07-22-2001, 03:33 AM

The articles on this site say to either keep the throttle on through the turn or brake through the turn, do not coast through. Changes in the power to the wheels can cause you to spin out.

Fishtailing is controlable, or at least it should be. Porsches do this all the time when rounding corners, and in ralley races they have full power slides where all 4 wheels are drifting. It's just a manner of making sure you planned on doing the slide. This is the impression that I get, anyway. I don't have much experience in this area so I'd like to see some experts

come in and explain things better!

Also here's a thought, since the convertibles are heavier cars, then wouldn't this extra weight be over the rear wheels? That's where the top folds up and the motor lies right? Then wouldn't it stand to reason that the convertibles might handle better on the turns? Expert opinion sought!

dinomite · 07-22-2001, 09:13 AM

convertibles will be more stable at high speed, but actually won't handle as well, cause when turning, you have to keep that weight from pushing the car sideways.

jetuomi · 07-22-2001, 10:32 AM

okay, thanks a lot guys, I like the looks of the Saleen kit, I'm just going to slowly build it up over the next few years... but at least I know, and I'll keep in mind to either coast or rev thru the turn.. I'm going to go hit a empty parking lot and see how it handles, so I can get used to it and be pro-active in the corners with rear-end slide !!!

(but I'll mention my newest problem, in a coffee shop parking lot, my car wouldn't start, ended up being a flat starter, so that's #1 on my spending list, just hope it don't set me back too much! but its fun to push start a 5-speed and pop the clutch into gear !)

07-23-2001, 11:38 PM

Vector-what i was trying to say was that if you let off the gas a little bit while sliding it'll keep the rear end from walking around because it's spinning from excessive acceleration. Letting off completely will disrupt the balance as well as braking (mustangs have horrible 60/40 weight distribution and the engine is located right above the front wheel axis). Braking pushes weight to the already heavy front and as a result the rear end gets lighter and the front end acts as a pivot point for the car (around a corner most of the weight will be over the outside front tire). As for porsches and other cars doing 4 wheel drifting, the cars are 50/50 in weight balance and have better suspension geometry than the mustang and well as less ground clearance and stiffer suspension, Rally racing strategy is quite different than Road Racing because a Rally car usually is Front or all wheel drive and they use the brakes to shift weight and whip the rear end around. I may be incorrect but any kind of sliding in road racing is considered bad because it actually slows the cars down, where as in rally racing to get quickly around corners you want to be able to whip it around while still accelerating.
Are there any autocrossers or Road racers here? The only experience i have is my own driving and reading a few suspension and better driving books, so i may be wrong.

------------------
'84 Mustang 5.0 LX
My car

jetuomi · 07-24-2001, 12:23 AM

hey, thanks !!

tonite, I found a stretch of curvy road barely used up in north Waterloo, and hit it 4 times tonite between 90 and 110 km/h.. it had some good 45's, and 60 degree bends....

I nailed those down good on try #3 and #4, #1/#2 was a bit of rear-end slide, then grabbing and going forward.. but #3/#4, held the throttle, and punched as soon as I relaxed the steering wheel, it held great !

going to practise some more..
thanks !

Mercury · 07-24-2001, 02:02 AM

One cruise night a few months ago, me and my friends were going to Texas Road House to eat. I spotted a 5.0 (I'm usually the Leed Man), and thought I'd get a race going early on. The road is a twisty one, I was still learning my car. I took off after the 5.0, doing 70 around a few curves.

Then with no warning or sign, the rear end just jumps, not slides, or spins, just Jumps. If I didnt have a firm grasp on the wheel or any sense, I would of probably flew into the curb . Tim C was behind me, and he commented during dinner how my cars rear just kinda jumped to the left while taking the curves.

That hasnt happened since, we still dont know why that happened, maybe I touched the brake without realizing it, but I dont think I did. Oh well. All I have to say is my car Handles a thousand times better than my old 64 1/2's.

Vector · 07-24-2001, 04:12 AM

I've watched a few videos of racing Porsches, and most of the time they always do slides around the hairpin corners, and really drift around the longer ones. It's amazing to see these professional drivers handle that car.

By watching these videos you can tell that they aren't losing any speed at all by sliding around the turns, in fact it seems to be away of avoiding slowing down too much to take the turns. Once they are stabalized again they can zoom straight out of them easily.

richie · 07-25-2001, 01:27 AM

I have had my cars rear slide out manys times in the rain and had to steer out of it.At first it was kind of scary,but then I thought it was fun.Once when I was racing on the freeway at around 100mph my cars rear started to slideout when changing lanes and I was still accelerating so the rear came back in.When accelerating weight is transferred to the rearend when deaccelerating it's transferred to the front.I always keep my foot on the gas when going around sharp turns,but you don't want to over do it or you will over power the rear tires tires and will end up doing a power on drift.

Mercury · 07-25-2001, 01:41 AM

Actually, keeping your foot on the gas going around sharp corners is a good way to fling your car into a ditch.

When you have the majority of your wieght transferred to the rear, during accleration, your rear wheels are driving. Now under accerlaeration goin around corners, the wieht is takin away from your front, giving your Steering, control wheels less grip. Nascar drivers call this condition TIGHT. Your car doesnt respond as well or as quick this way. If your going fast enough, you can have your wheel turned the whole way to the lock but your car will still keep plowing foward.

Going around corners and maximum speed (Method other than drifiting) you want to lighten up on the gas, or let off completely. If you realize your going a little to fast for the turn, dont Jam on the brakes at high speeds, thats a real good way to swing the rear loose, and loose control. Just let off the gas and gently get on the brake, or Cadence brake.

I unintetionally drifted my old Stang Diane around a corner at 90 MPH before. I've done it several time intetinionally since. Nothing like the Playstaion Games Gran Turismo.

Richie, Be carefull man. wouldnt want to see a fellow Mustanger get hurt.

------------------
64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle, 40 series Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax
64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Future resto.

MiracleMax · 07-26-2001, 10:38 AM

Try a better rear suspension period, like a torque arm set up or something like Steeda's 5-link set-up.

IMO the mustangs 4 link is the best driver improvement class on the planet! It will definetly make you a better driver in adverse driving situations

Interesting trivia, the same guy who designed the suspension on the GT-40 had a hand in the fox cars chassis. Boy talk about bean counting.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
94-98 Clear Corners	Extremestang	Small Ponies	0	12-06-2002 08:12 PM
245/45/17 on all corners?	Hethj7	Windsor Power	15	07-29-2002 01:32 PM
Trick for free corners was posted, but I can't find it. HELP!!!!!!	tireburner163	Blue Oval Lounge	2	09-17-2001 10:29 PM
fast corners?	drudis	Corner Carvers Delight	18	09-05-2000 02:39 PM

07-19-2001, 12:41 PM	#1
jetuomi Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada Posts: 214	Sliding around corners @ 75 mph !!! Hey All Last night in Waterloo (on University Ave for anyone in the area) I was racing a 328 BMW, a Camry (haha), and a civic, so I passed all of them, and rounded a corner holding 3rd gear around 4200 rpm.. it wasn't a huge corner, but, for no reason, my rear end slipped out, and I fishtailed around it, not out of control, but, you could feel the * -end out a bit, it was really wierd !! So, what suspension component do I need to keep the * end on the ground more?? (lowering springs? better struts??) thanks !! ------------------ 94 GT (triple black) K&N, FMS 9mm, FMS 95 17" Cobra R's, Aluminum Driveshaft, 3.27, 12* timing, MSD Coil, 180* thermostat, MAC Shifter/Gauges/Pedals, Euro Clear Projectors & Corners My CAR! Email me: jetuomi@yahoo.com

07-19-2001, 12:44 PM	#2
Smokedawg Tires Fear Me... Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 867	I dont know much about suspension, but I know lowering it will help. Then you will need new controller arms too. Is your front sway-bar on?? ------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del.

07-19-2001, 01:25 PM	#3
jetuomi Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada Posts: 214	yes, have front+rear swaybar.. As I think about it, could it be the "junk" rear arms (upper+ lower?) that caused some flex, then it just let go?? the tires themselves grip well, so, it was kinda unexpected !!! : )

07-19-2001, 04:42 PM	#4
SisuStang Guest Posts: n/a	No, no, it's not the car at all... It's that crazy Finn rally racer blood coming out in you!!!! Seriously, the stock rear control arms are pretty much junk. A better set of arms will help along with springs, but Mustangs are still light in the backside.... ------------------ 91 coupe 3.73's,long tubes,2 1/2" exh,ported stock t-body,ProM-77mm cobra intake,edelbrock heads,B303,1.72 rr's 36lb inj's,tremec, & a Paxton NOVI 2000!!! 11.020 @128.95 on BFG Drag Radials (275/60/15)

07-19-2001, 06:13 PM	#5
blue00gt Mustang Addict Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 1,294	What happened to you was a result of the poor rear suspension design on our Mustangs. The stock 4 link has angled upper arms with rubber bushings that bind up when a side-load is put on them (i.e. when you are taking a corner). This introduces extra spring rate, restricts suspension travel, and does not allow the springs and shocks to do their job properly. When the back tires break loose because of this, all of a sudden there is much less force binding the arms (since your coefficient of kinetic friction is much less than that of static friction) and the rearend gets very skittish. Getting a panhard bar will prevent lateral motion of the rearend and also allow you to get some upper control arms with spherical bushings that will not bind (obviously with spherical bushings and no panhard bar the rearend would have a lot of side play). Of course, the best solution is to get the above and a torque arm, or the Steeda 5-link setup, but this route gets a little pricey. ------------------ 2000GT Atlantic Blue: Cobra R Wheels-17x9 255/40/17, 17x10.5 315/35/17, tubular K-member & control arms, Tokico 5-ways, coil overs, sway bars, strut/shock tower bars, 70mm FMS throttle body, Saleen nose. 79 Pace Car: Maximum Motorsports suspension - H&R Race springs, Bilsteins, rear control arms, chassis bracing, Draglites, 302 w/ Edelbrock Performer intake, cam and 600cfm carb, BBK equal-lengths & H-pipe, 2.5" Flowmaster 2chmbr exhaust, Al Driveshaft, 8.8 trak-loc, TCI C4 w/ 2000 stall, B&M

07-19-2001, 08:04 PM	#6
jetuomi Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada Posts: 214	ray, yeap, Mika was in my blood last night ! : ) blue00gt, thanks for the help! I'm going to put those parts into my 3 year plan !! (haha) so what would be the best component to start with ? sounds like start with lower control arms?? are coil-overs any good??

07-20-2001, 04:30 PM	#7
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	I hope you appreciate how lucky you are to still have your car in one piece once you start fishtailing violently there's not much you can do except "try" to steer it back and taking your foot off the gas a bit. Had you slammed on your brakes your story coulda been a bit different. After quite a few close calls myself i don't speed or screw around with corners at all anymore. You can buy handling kits from like Saleen, Maximum Motorsports, Kenny Brown, etc. that are split up into stages depending on your budget and are usually prioritized as to what you want to do. All it takes for the mustang rear end to slip out is a small dump around a corner to disrupt the balance and have your traction-lok kick in to get you going around....not so fun. ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car

07-20-2001, 06:41 PM	#8
blue00gt Mustang Addict Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 1,294	If I were going to buy suspension components a little at a time, I would do it in this order: chassis bracing springs and shocks/struts caster/camber plates control arms panhard bar With my cars the next step is to buy a torque arm and remove the upper arms altogether (the panhard bar locates the rear axle laterally and the torque arm controls rotation of the axle, so with these two components you no longer need upper arms at all). ------------------ 2000GT Atlantic Blue: Cobra R Wheels-17x9 255/40/17, 17x10.5 315/35/17, tubular K-member & control arms, Tokico 5-ways, coil overs, sway bars, strut/shock tower bars, 70mm FMS throttle body, Saleen nose. 79 Pace Car: Maximum Motorsports suspension - H&R Race springs, Bilsteins, rear control arms, chassis bracing, Draglites, 302 w/ Edelbrock Performer intake, cam and 600cfm carb, BBK equal-lengths & H-pipe, 2.5" Flowmaster 2chmbr exhaust, Al Driveshaft, 8.8 trak-loc, TCI C4 w/ 2000 stall, B&M

07-20-2001, 11:22 PM	#9
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	your easiest (cheapest) bet for now is to get some new control arms and some springs (fms b or c)

07-21-2001, 11:48 AM	#10
Phlea96gt Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Herndon, VA, USA Posts: 16	I lined up next to an older M3 at dusk one night. We pulled acroos an intrsection, going left. I had a full length on him (thank god) because I fish tailed, and would have clipped him...I am gettting some springs and larger rubber all the way around.

07-22-2001, 03:33 AM	#11
Vector Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Comox, BC, Canada Posts: 119	The articles on this site say to either keep the throttle on through the turn or brake through the turn, do not coast through. Changes in the power to the wheels can cause you to spin out. Fishtailing is controlable, or at least it should be. Porsches do this all the time when rounding corners, and in ralley races they have full power slides where all 4 wheels are drifting. It's just a manner of making sure you planned on doing the slide. This is the impression that I get, anyway. I don't have much experience in this area so I'd like to see some experts come in and explain things better! Also here's a thought, since the convertibles are heavier cars, then wouldn't this extra weight be over the rear wheels? That's where the top folds up and the motor lies right? Then wouldn't it stand to reason that the convertibles might handle better on the turns? Expert opinion sought!

07-22-2001, 09:13 AM	#12
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	convertibles will be more stable at high speed, but actually won't handle as well, cause when turning, you have to keep that weight from pushing the car sideways.

07-22-2001, 10:32 AM	#13
jetuomi Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada Posts: 214	okay, thanks a lot guys, I like the looks of the Saleen kit, I'm just going to slowly build it up over the next few years... but at least I know, and I'll keep in mind to either coast or rev thru the turn.. I'm going to go hit a empty parking lot and see how it handles, so I can get used to it and be pro-active in the corners with rear-end slide !!! (but I'll mention my newest problem, in a coffee shop parking lot, my car wouldn't start, ended up being a flat starter, so that's #1 on my spending list, just hope it don't set me back too much! but its fun to push start a 5-speed and pop the clutch into gear !)

07-23-2001, 11:38 PM	#14
84stangLX Guest Posts: n/a	Vector-what i was trying to say was that if you let off the gas a little bit while sliding it'll keep the rear end from walking around because it's spinning from excessive acceleration. Letting off completely will disrupt the balance as well as braking (mustangs have horrible 60/40 weight distribution and the engine is located right above the front wheel axis). Braking pushes weight to the already heavy front and as a result the rear end gets lighter and the front end acts as a pivot point for the car (around a corner most of the weight will be over the outside front tire). As for porsches and other cars doing 4 wheel drifting, the cars are 50/50 in weight balance and have better suspension geometry than the mustang and well as less ground clearance and stiffer suspension, Rally racing strategy is quite different than Road Racing because a Rally car usually is Front or all wheel drive and they use the brakes to shift weight and whip the rear end around. I may be incorrect but any kind of sliding in road racing is considered bad because it actually slows the cars down, where as in rally racing to get quickly around corners you want to be able to whip it around while still accelerating. Are there any autocrossers or Road racers here? The only experience i have is my own driving and reading a few suspension and better driving books, so i may be wrong. ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car

07-24-2001, 12:23 AM	#15
jetuomi Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada Posts: 214	hey, thanks !! tonite, I found a stretch of curvy road barely used up in north Waterloo, and hit it 4 times tonite between 90 and 110 km/h.. it had some good 45's, and 60 degree bends.... I nailed those down good on try #3 and #4, #1/#2 was a bit of rear-end slide, then grabbing and going forward.. but #3/#4, held the throttle, and punched as soon as I relaxed the steering wheel, it held great ! going to practise some more.. thanks !

07-24-2001, 02:02 AM	#16
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	One cruise night a few months ago, me and my friends were going to Texas Road House to eat. I spotted a 5.0 (I'm usually the Leed Man), and thought I'd get a race going early on. The road is a twisty one, I was still learning my car. I took off after the 5.0, doing 70 around a few curves. Then with no warning or sign, the rear end just jumps, not slides, or spins, just Jumps. If I didnt have a firm grasp on the wheel or any sense, I would of probably flew into the curb . Tim C was behind me, and he commented during dinner how my cars rear just kinda jumped to the left while taking the curves. That hasnt happened since, we still dont know why that happened, maybe I touched the brake without realizing it, but I dont think I did. Oh well. All I have to say is my car Handles a thousand times better than my old 64 1/2's.

07-24-2001, 04:12 AM	#17
Vector Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Comox, BC, Canada Posts: 119	I've watched a few videos of racing Porsches, and most of the time they always do slides around the hairpin corners, and really drift around the longer ones. It's amazing to see these professional drivers handle that car. By watching these videos you can tell that they aren't losing any speed at all by sliding around the turns, in fact it seems to be away of avoiding slowing down too much to take the turns. Once they are stabalized again they can zoom straight out of them easily.

07-25-2001, 01:27 AM	#18
richie Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 47	I have had my cars rear slide out manys times in the rain and had to steer out of it.At first it was kind of scary,but then I thought it was fun.Once when I was racing on the freeway at around 100mph my cars rear started to slideout when changing lanes and I was still accelerating so the rear came back in.When accelerating weight is transferred to the rearend when deaccelerating it's transferred to the front.I always keep my foot on the gas when going around sharp turns,but you don't want to over do it or you will over power the rear tires tires and will end up doing a power on drift.

07-25-2001, 01:41 AM	#19
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	Actually, keeping your foot on the gas going around sharp corners is a good way to fling your car into a ditch. When you have the majority of your wieght transferred to the rear, during accleration, your rear wheels are driving. Now under accerlaeration goin around corners, the wieht is takin away from your front, giving your Steering, control wheels less grip. Nascar drivers call this condition TIGHT. Your car doesnt respond as well or as quick this way. If your going fast enough, you can have your wheel turned the whole way to the lock but your car will still keep plowing foward. Going around corners and maximum speed (Method other than drifiting) you want to lighten up on the gas, or let off completely. If you realize your going a little to fast for the turn, dont Jam on the brakes at high speeds, thats a real good way to swing the rear loose, and loose control. Just let off the gas and gently get on the brake, or Cadence brake. I unintetionally drifted my old Stang Diane around a corner at 90 MPH before. I've done it several time intetinionally since. Nothing like the Playstaion Games Gran Turismo. Richie, Be carefull man. wouldnt want to see a fellow Mustanger get hurt. ------------------ 64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. And to many others to list 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle, 40 series Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax 64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Future resto.

07-26-2001, 10:38 AM	#20
MiracleMax Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Hayes, Va, USA Posts: 798	Try a better rear suspension period, like a torque arm set up or something like Steeda's 5-link set-up. IMO the mustangs 4 link is the best driver improvement class on the planet! It will definetly make you a better driver in adverse driving situations Interesting trivia, the same guy who designed the suspension on the GT-40 had a hand in the fox cars chassis. Boy talk about bean counting.