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04-06-2001, 11:28 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 47
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street launching
What is the best technique for a quick launch on the street with 3.73 gears?
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04-06-2001, 11:31 PM | #2 |
Being stroked is great
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 772
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I can get off the line good if I leave SOFTLY at idle, make sure it's hooking, and ease into the gas down to WOT (this is usually around 3000-3500 revs by this point). Hooks good after that. I've tried other ways like slipping the clutch but I tend to overdo that and spin, and also launching lightly and then jamming the throttle, but I can break loose in 1st by doing that. Best thing to do is practice. If traction is a problem try some drag springs and control arms, and better tires (like drag radials). Good luck!
------------------ 1991 LX Hatch 5.0L |
04-07-2001, 03:12 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: NC
Posts: 308
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I agree with jonnie. I've won a lot of races b/c the other guy was sitting on the line spinning!!!!
------------------ 1997 Black Cobra Convertible. #2788 of 3088 Mostly Stock 1988 5.0 LX Convertible -Work Car...Few Mods. [This message has been edited by Ty'97Cobra (edited 04-07-2001).] |
04-08-2001, 02:09 PM | #4 |
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Posts: n/a
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With my stock motor I used to just roll out and then roll the throttle to WO. But now with engine mods my cars spins crazy almost until I shift into third.
If you are fairly stock, then roll out, but if not, race from or a roll or get drag radials. Traction is key and if there is no traction, there is no go. |
04-09-2001, 05:17 PM | #5 |
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I'm not too sure of the best way....guess it's probably an individual thing. I've taken off easy (at idle), and then layed into it. But, I think I've had the most luck riding my clutch out launching at 2500 (minimal spin), and then slightly riding it in 2nd and 3rd too. I agree.....all the hp in the world won't win you a race if you can't get off the line. It's always a nice when the other guy can't drive and you lead by 2 car lengths in the first 30 feet. Race over!
------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys; Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL ignition system; Motorsport E303 cam; 75 MAF; 70 TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside sub-connectors; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass cowl hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; Flomasters; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 12.513 @ 108 mph |
04-09-2001, 06:25 PM | #6 |
Mustang Maniac
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: GA, U.S.A
Posts: 2,266
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Depends...
Get some drag radials and PRACTICE. I usually get a jump, by starting off a little hard off the line (not too hard, but as hard as possible WITH A LITTLE SPINNING--least amount as possible) and then after speed picks up a little, really lay into it. That's the best way I can describe it through written words. -------------------------------- '79 Mustang Coup w/ 4" Cowl Stock 5.8L, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 CFM, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear end w/ 3.55 gears 14 x 4" K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup soon) "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body |
04-10-2001, 11:52 AM | #7 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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All I gotta do is toe the line and floor it on the third horn (if it's on clean, decent pavement...gravel plays hell with me and most of the roads around here are asphalt). That's one great thing about the AOD and my setup. The converter puts me right at the front of the power band, and the AOD usually doesn't spin the tires much other than just skipping them abit which helps launch. I can beat a lot of stuff off the line just because I don't spin.
--nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
04-10-2001, 01:17 PM | #8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Sugar Land, Tx USA
Posts: 478
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Hey nathan, just curious with the mods you have, can you chirp 3rd?
------------------ 92 AOD GT, K&N, ram air, pulleys, 2 ch. flowmasters, 4:10's, shift kit, 1 5/8 mac longtubes and offroad hpipe 14.249 @ 97.34 mph before the headers and hpipe |
04-10-2001, 03:33 PM | #9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: GA
Posts: 32
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Rpms at 2,500 and dump it w/drag radials a little spin but not after second gear
------------------ 96GTRioredw/siverstripes Aeromotive fuelreg,SVO70mm,C&L80mm,Nitto's,NOS150,MAC uppper&lowwers,MAC ccplates,KennyBrown supersubs,Eibach Prokit,BBK treekiller,Flowmaster catback,MSD inline 43ghp pump,FRRP aluminum driveshaft,RamHD,STEEDA Quadw/adjuster,B&M ripperw/STEEDA stick,Autometer A/F ratio&Nitrous gauges on piller,FRRP 3.73.HELL YES I STREET RACE!!!!!! |
04-10-2001, 04:13 PM | #10 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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FivepointOH,
I can dream... Na...before I did the motor and converter, with just the shift kit, I could scratch 2nd pretty hard. The extra slip in the converter sort of softened up the shifts a bit. I still scratch 2nd under WOT, but not third. Maybe after I get rid of the stock intake, TB/EGR, MAF (got a 76mm unit, just got to put it on), and headers I'll be a bit closer . Unfortunately, that will take a while as I sort of ran out of funds after the motor build. Not to mention I have to build a new computer and make higher rent payments this summer. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
04-10-2001, 04:32 PM | #11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 3,887
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Hey, Silver, do you have a shift kit? That will help firm up the converter a little. Just my experience. Also you have to be able to shift at the correct RPM. Just a thought.
Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, 300 HP, C-4, 13.97 e.t., 100.3 mph 1/4 mi. |
04-10-2001, 05:49 PM | #12 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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Rev,
Yeah, I've got a Transgo shift kit that runs with a PI Stallion 2800 non lock-up converter. It still shifts hard, it's just that the converter allows the engine to slip a bit during the shift...keeps it moving up in the power band. As far as shifting, when racing, I generally shift around 5500 rpm. The cam pulls hard up past 6000 on the stock tach, but until I get an aftermarket tach, I'm not going to run it any higher than that. When I have some money, I'm looking into a Lentech valve body so I can fully control the shifts. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site |
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