smoking, mods, wheels, and losing wieght

Import Slayer · 08-21-2002, 04:10 AM

Hello. I have a 89 LX 5.0 5 speed hatchback that i bought last winter. It now has 93 000 kms (60000 miles?) and There a little bit of greyish blue smoke comming out of the tailpipes. Im guessing it has something to do with the valves. Is it worth worrying about? The only mods right now is an off road H pipe, removed air silencer, a B&M short throw shifter, and 13 degree timing. I Took it off the road now until next spring because i want to turn her into a nice daily driver 12-13 second car. I want to get her some gears(3:55s or 3:73s), pulleys, a fenderwell intake, subframes, and possibly new wheels ( i have ugly 10 holes). I want the back tires to look considerably bigger than the fronts. Ill have about 3 grand (canadian) to put into her.

1.Has anyone here heard of or done this? Removing your sound deadener material from your car to reduce wieght? Would It really be loud and anoying if i did? how much wieght do u think id save? and how should i take it out?

2. I have the power lumbar seats. I am guessing these seats are heavy. Are normal seats considerably lighter? should i get racing seats? or should i keep them. they are quite comfy after all lol.

3. On my dashboard in front of the passenger where that little wall is i was thinking about putting some gauges in there, is there room behind it?? has anyone ever heard of this being done? where can I put a much needed aftermarket oil gauge without it sticking out like a sore thumb.

What else do you think it would take for my car to be a 13 second car?? Would it run that if i did all this? also, If anyone can reccomend a brand or part number for any of the mods i listed it would be much appreciated. Its hard to get good advice around here. thanks

cyberstang5.0 · 08-21-2002, 07:19 AM

1) If you remove the sound deadener from your car, it will be very loud. It also acts as a insulation. Your floor boards will get very hot from your exhaust and motor. Not a good idea. You will save about 30 lbs. Not worth it.

2) The lumbar seats only weigh about 5-10 lbs more then the "normal" Mustang seats. Once again, not worth the weight. Racing seats are comfortable at first, but if you sit in them for 30+ mins, you'll quickly regret you bought them. If this is going to be a daily driver, stick with the stock ones or get another set of stock ones. The stock seats with lumbar weigh about 35-40lbs.

3) You have about 4 inches of room to work behind the little "wall". They do make a gauge pod for there. Check out Autometer.

4) Your on the correct road to a 13 sec car. Weight is a big factor in it, but if you remove 50lbs, you won't see that big of a difference. It's better to spend your time and money one something else. Full exhaust, 3.73 gears, Subframe connectors, Cold Air Induction, Bigger Mass Air Meter, 65mm Throtle Body, if you have an offroad H-pipe you can get rid of your smog pump. You'll save a lot of weigh if you get rid of your A/C. With all that, you should be very close to high 13's. Once you get more money, get different heads, cam, and a set of roller rockers.

Hope all goes well with ya.

84LX89GT · 08-21-2002, 02:44 PM

I removed the sound deadening and rear interior from my car but it is maybe a month away from being torn down again and used only on a limited basis like drag racing or cruising. I have another vehicle so it's no big deal.

It is ALOT louder inside. Although it's VERY cool because you can really hear the tone of the exhaust even though it exits out the back and you can hear every pebble hit the chassis. As for heat, i drove this in 90* weather and it was quite a bit warmer inside than before but i just rolled down the windows and it wasn't that bad. I guess it all depends on what you're willing to live with.

My car isn't a rocket by any means, but it is decent. I'm hoping that if i fix the weak exhaust lifter on #3, get slicks, control arms and maybe drag springs i'll hit mid 13's and with some nitrous/fuel upgrades hit mid maybe low 12's.....now i'm getting ahead of myself.

Do whatever you're willing to live with and remember everything you do that compramises confort, you'll have to deal with each time you're in the car.

Good luck

Agent_4573 · 08-21-2002, 08:37 PM

If you run it with slicks and drag springs before beefing up the tranny, clutch, and rear you'll be on your way to a high 12 car.You'll have a 12 second car or about the first 60 feet or so before all this new found traction throws a gear threw the side of your stock t-5 or a clutch right threw the bellhousing. I wouldn't go any more than drag radials with the stock drivetrain, especially if your planning on shooting more hp in w/ some nitrous. Go with a set of roller rockers, lower control arms, possibly a junkyard electric fan assembly, and some underdrive pulleys. That should put you into the high 13's, then you get bigger stuff like heads,cam, etc. from there.

Bad89stang · 08-22-2002, 03:13 AM

You need to resolve or determine where the blue smoke is coming from first. It could be the rings or the valves/heads. Run a compression test to determine the condition of the cylinders/rings. You can do a leakdown test to test the other stuff.

Mr 5 0 · 08-22-2002, 08:57 AM

Import Slayer:

The smoke sounds like valve guides or other type of blowby so yes, you need to do a compression test to see where you are on engine condition. At 60,000 miles, you shouldn't have anything seriously wrong but who knows? It's a used car and could have been abused.

If the bottom end (i.e. piston rings) tests well, you may need some valve work and this could be an opportunity to rework the stock heads (porting, new springs, valves, etc), maybe add an aftermarket intake and pick up the kind of power increase that would almost guarantee 13's for your Mustang.

Get the 3.73 rear gears; they are a 'must' for better performance. The stock 2.73's are there for gas mileage and less engine wear (to meet U.S. CAFE standards and escape warrantee expenses for Ford) but they hold back performance, even on a stock 5.0 Mustang.

Losing weight on your car is the hard way to go faster and usually reserved for all-out race cars. It takes 100 pounds of weight loss to lose a tenth from your et so you can strip a lot from your car and barely see more than a tenth or two - and have a very uncomfortable car as a daily driver. Example: The A/C equipment - including the big compressor - totals about 65 pounds.

Leave the seats and the insulation alone, concentrate on adding power to the engine, not losing weight. Believe me, it's easier. A set of aftermarket heads & an intake, headers, gears, a few other mods and you're well down in the 13's. Add nitrous and your in the 12's. Go for it.

Import Slayer · 08-23-2002, 04:20 AM

thanks alot for all of your help

08-21-2002, 04:10 AM	#1
Import Slayer Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: bc canada Posts: 48	smoking, mods, wheels, and losing wieght Hello. I have a 89 LX 5.0 5 speed hatchback that i bought last winter. It now has 93 000 kms (60000 miles?) and There a little bit of greyish blue smoke comming out of the tailpipes. Im guessing it has something to do with the valves. Is it worth worrying about? The only mods right now is an off road H pipe, removed air silencer, a B&M short throw shifter, and 13 degree timing. I Took it off the road now until next spring because i want to turn her into a nice daily driver 12-13 second car. I want to get her some gears(3:55s or 3:73s), pulleys, a fenderwell intake, subframes, and possibly new wheels ( i have ugly 10 holes). I want the back tires to look considerably bigger than the fronts. Ill have about 3 grand (canadian) to put into her. 1.Has anyone here heard of or done this? Removing your sound deadener material from your car to reduce wieght? Would It really be loud and anoying if i did? how much wieght do u think id save? and how should i take it out? 2. I have the power lumbar seats. I am guessing these seats are heavy. Are normal seats considerably lighter? should i get racing seats? or should i keep them. they are quite comfy after all lol. 3. On my dashboard in front of the passenger where that little wall is i was thinking about putting some gauges in there, is there room behind it?? has anyone ever heard of this being done? where can I put a much needed aftermarket oil gauge without it sticking out like a sore thumb. What else do you think it would take for my car to be a 13 second car?? Would it run that if i did all this? also, If anyone can reccomend a brand or part number for any of the mods i listed it would be much appreciated. Its hard to get good advice around here. thanks __________________ now daddy ran whiskey in a big block dodge 89 5 speed LX 5.0 - off road h pipe, B&M short throw, 13* timing, blue bottle glasspacks, removed air silencer, accel super stock 8mm, bosch platinum 4's, no times

08-21-2002, 08:37 PM	#4
Agent_4573 Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: New Jersey Posts: 375	If you run it with slicks and drag springs before beefing up the tranny, clutch, and rear you'll be on your way to a high 12 car.You'll have a 12 second car or about the first 60 feet or so before all this new found traction throws a gear threw the side of your stock t-5 or a clutch right threw the bellhousing. I wouldn't go any more than drag radials with the stock drivetrain, especially if your planning on shooting more hp in w/ some nitrous. Go with a set of roller rockers, lower control arms, possibly a junkyard electric fan assembly, and some underdrive pulleys. That should put you into the high 13's, then you get bigger stuff like heads,cam, etc. from there. __________________ '89 LX 5.0, off-road h pipe, flowmaster muffs, underdrive pulleys, rebuilt WC T-5, King Cobra Clutch, 65mm throttle body, Explorer Upper/GT40 lower, Lakewood Rear Lift Bars. 76mm C&L Mass air w/ inlet pipe, Twisted wedge heads w/ stage 2 port,polish, MAC equal length shorties, Billet AFPR, 255LPH fuel pump, fresh low end w/ 10.5:1 compression. If anyone ever wants to go to Raceway Park in Englishtown New Jersey, give me a shout. RICER HATERS CLUB MEMBER 87! www.ricehatersclub.com

08-22-2002, 03:13 AM	#5
Bad89stang Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 456	Blue smoke You need to resolve or determine where the blue smoke is coming from first. It could be the rings or the valves/heads. Run a compression test to determine the condition of the cylinders/rings. You can do a leakdown test to test the other stuff. __________________ You're gonna need your seatbelt

08-22-2002, 08:57 AM	#6
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Don't smoke Import Slayer: The smoke sounds like valve guides or other type of blowby so yes, you need to do a compression test to see where you are on engine condition. At 60,000 miles, you shouldn't have anything seriously wrong but who knows? It's a used car and could have been abused. If the bottom end (i.e. piston rings) tests well, you may need some valve work and this could be an opportunity to rework the stock heads (porting, new springs, valves, etc), maybe add an aftermarket intake and pick up the kind of power increase that would almost guarantee 13's for your Mustang. Get the 3.73 rear gears; they are a 'must' for better performance. The stock 2.73's are there for gas mileage and less engine wear (to meet U.S. CAFE standards and escape warrantee expenses for Ford) but they hold back performance, even on a stock 5.0 Mustang. Losing weight on your car is the hard way to go faster and usually reserved for all-out race cars. It takes 100 pounds of weight loss to lose a tenth from your et so you can strip a lot from your car and barely see more than a tenth or two - and have a very uncomfortable car as a daily driver. Example: The A/C equipment - including the big compressor - totals about 65 pounds. Leave the seats and the insulation alone, concentrate on adding power to the engine, not losing weight. Believe me, it's easier. A set of aftermarket heads & an intake, headers, gears, a few other mods and you're well down in the 13's. Add nitrous and your in the 12's. Go for it.

08-23-2002, 04:20 AM	#7
Import Slayer Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: bc canada Posts: 48	thanks alot for all of your help __________________ now daddy ran whiskey in a big block dodge 89 5 speed LX 5.0 - off road h pipe, B&M short throw, 13* timing, blue bottle glasspacks, removed air silencer, accel super stock 8mm, bosch platinum 4's, no times

08-21-2002, 07:19 AM	#2
cyberstang5.0 347ci of HORSE POWER!!! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,416	1) If you remove the sound deadener from your car, it will be very loud. It also acts as a insulation. Your floor boards will get very hot from your exhaust and motor. Not a good idea. You will save about 30 lbs. Not worth it. 2) The lumbar seats only weigh about 5-10 lbs more then the "normal" Mustang seats. Once again, not worth the weight. Racing seats are comfortable at first, but if you sit in them for 30+ mins, you'll quickly regret you bought them. If this is going to be a daily driver, stick with the stock ones or get another set of stock ones. The stock seats with lumbar weigh about 35-40lbs. 3) You have about 4 inches of room to work behind the little "wall". They do make a gauge pod for there. Check out Autometer. 4) Your on the correct road to a 13 sec car. Weight is a big factor in it, but if you remove 50lbs, you won't see that big of a difference. It's better to spend your time and money one something else. Full exhaust, 3.73 gears, Subframe connectors, Cold Air Induction, Bigger Mass Air Meter, 65mm Throtle Body, if you have an offroad H-pipe you can get rid of your smog pump. You'll save a lot of weigh if you get rid of your A/C. With all that, you should be very close to high 13's. Once you get more money, get different heads, cam, and a set of roller rockers. Hope all goes well with ya.

08-21-2002, 02:44 PM	#3
84LX89GT Mustangs Join Date: Jul 2000 Posts: 1,938	I removed the sound deadening and rear interior from my car but it is maybe a month away from being torn down again and used only on a limited basis like drag racing or cruising. I have another vehicle so it's no big deal. It is ALOT louder inside. Although it's VERY cool because you can really hear the tone of the exhaust even though it exits out the back and you can hear every pebble hit the chassis. As for heat, i drove this in 90* weather and it was quite a bit warmer inside than before but i just rolled down the windows and it wasn't that bad. I guess it all depends on what you're willing to live with. My car isn't a rocket by any means, but it is decent. I'm hoping that if i fix the weak exhaust lifter on #3, get slicks, control arms and maybe drag springs i'll hit mid 13's and with some nitrous/fuel upgrades hit mid maybe low 12's.....now i'm getting ahead of myself. Do whatever you're willing to live with and remember everything you do that compramises confort, you'll have to deal with each time you're in the car. Good luck __________________ 2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock)