CLUTCH PROBLEMS

TEXSN95 · 06-16-2001, 08:42 PM

I had a FMS HD clutch put in about 15,000 miles ago by a buddy who has done alot of mustang clutches, so he knows what he is doing. It's been fine til about a month ago, when I noticed that it's hard to get it into any gear, so I adjust it out with my steeda firewall adjuster. Works fine for a bit, then the same thing happens again. Lots of reistance between shifts. One day it was working fine, then I did a 1-2 speedshift at 5k, and after that it was hard as hell to get into any gear. Also my rear main seal has been leaking for awhile, so can that get onto the clutch? One thing I'm going to check is to see if the firewall adjuster is turning on it's own. But I have to get this fixed soon before I accidentally grind the **** out of my gears. Could my throwout bearing be bad already? Bent shift fork? Thanks for any help.

------------------
Clint L.
White 95 Cobra #3637
58cc GT40X heads with mild porting, Crane 2031 cam, FRPP 65 TB, 1.7s, Cobra intake, homeade cold air, 155lph, pullies, Tokico Illuminas, C springs, GW LCAs, Kenny Brown super subs, Steeda CC plates, aluminum driveshaft, Steeda quadrant, B&M ripper, Kirban FPR, MSD6A, Taylor wires, Mac shorties, off road hpipe, 2 1/2 ultra flows w/ dumps, R hood, Euro clear corners, stock 3.08s
13.61 @ 104.7 w/ 2.22

Unit 5302 · 06-17-2001, 12:44 AM

Sounds like a clutch adjustment issue. Either something is causing problems with the adjustment or something like the throw out arm is bent, or dragging. Your clutch could be coming apart, I've seen it happen 1st hand, or your pressure plate could have some broken or cracking fingers.

The thowout bearing shouldn't have anything to do with disengagement, and you cannot bend shift forks (you can break them, however.) as they are made out of cast aluminum.

I'd take a look underneath the car, make sure the dust cover is properly installed still, if it's hanging down it could be rubbing on the throwout arm which could cause the adjustment issues.

As far as the rear main leaking, it's pretty doubtful it'll affect your clutch. Since the rear main is in front of the flywheel, the entire clutch assembly is shielded from the oil it leaks. Now it's technically possible the oil it's dripping could get thrown around a little, but not enough to cause major problems unless it's totally shot. Even if it was, your shifting wouldn't be effected.

Bottom line, it's something keeping your clutch from fully disengaging.

jetuomi · 06-17-2001, 10:26 AM

Hey TEX

I have a MAC shifter, and just last week, I noticed that it was getting harder and harder to put into any gear..

My problem was that the the top plate that bolts into the shifter base was a bit loose, and actually off centre, so the shift-guides were about 5-10 degrees counter clockwise, and although plate was loose, it was just not loose enough, so each time I shifted, I would be repositioning the plate with the shifter. (if that makes any sense). And the higher the revs, the more the vibration, the more the plate would shift..

Now, I don't know about the B&M shifter, but, if you've got a shifter-guide that is bolted down to the base, I'd check that for tightness..

If not, then, I have no clue!
: )

------------------
94 Mustang GT (black on black)
K&N, MAC Shifter, FMS 9mm, 0017" rims, 3.27, 13*, MSD Coil, on a diet

TEXSN95 · 06-20-2001, 06:37 PM

Hey Unit when you say throwout arm...do you mean the clutch fork? It didn't look like it could be bent...just broken. Can I tell just by looking up through the dusc cover?

Jetuomi - good idea with the shifter, but mine was fine. I was hoping that was the problem. This is very annoying since it started out of the blue :-(.

------------------
Clint L.
White 95 Cobra #3637
58cc GT40X heads with mild porting, Crane 2031 cam, FRPP 65 TB, 1.7s, Cobra intake, homeade cold air, 155lph, pullies, Tokico Illuminas, C springs, GW LCAs, Kenny Brown super subs, Steeda CC plates, aluminum driveshaft, Steeda quadrant, B&M ripper, Kirban FPR, MSD6A, Taylor wires, Mac shorties, off road hpipe, 2 1/2 ultra flows w/ dumps, R hood, Euro clear corners, stock 3.08s
13.61 @ 104.7 w/ 2.22

jwboner · 06-22-2001, 12:43 AM

Try sync shifting (shifting through the gears without using the clutch pedal) It's hard to explain, just when revving through lets say first, just before you would normally shift apply a little pressure as if you were about to shift, and it shouldn't come out of gear while you are on the gas. Then let off the gas and the shifter will pop out of gear and as rpms lower a little it should go into 2nd pretty easily without ever having to use the clutch. If it shifts easily or easier than with the clutch then it is linkage or cable or something on that end. Good to narrow it down, and also comes in handy when clutch breaks and limp home starting in gear.

06-16-2001, 08:42 PM	#1
TEXSN95 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: college station, tx Posts: 143	CLUTCH PROBLEMS I had a FMS HD clutch put in about 15,000 miles ago by a buddy who has done alot of mustang clutches, so he knows what he is doing. It's been fine til about a month ago, when I noticed that it's hard to get it into any gear, so I adjust it out with my steeda firewall adjuster. Works fine for a bit, then the same thing happens again. Lots of reistance between shifts. One day it was working fine, then I did a 1-2 speedshift at 5k, and after that it was hard as hell to get into any gear. Also my rear main seal has been leaking for awhile, so can that get onto the clutch? One thing I'm going to check is to see if the firewall adjuster is turning on it's own. But I have to get this fixed soon before I accidentally grind the **** out of my gears. Could my throwout bearing be bad already? Bent shift fork? Thanks for any help. ------------------ Clint L. White 95 Cobra #3637 58cc GT40X heads with mild porting, Crane 2031 cam, FRPP 65 TB, 1.7s, Cobra intake, homeade cold air, 155lph, pullies, Tokico Illuminas, C springs, GW LCAs, Kenny Brown super subs, Steeda CC plates, aluminum driveshaft, Steeda quadrant, B&M ripper, Kirban FPR, MSD6A, Taylor wires, Mac shorties, off road hpipe, 2 1/2 ultra flows w/ dumps, R hood, Euro clear corners, stock 3.08s 13.61 @ 104.7 w/ 2.22

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06-17-2001, 12:44 AM	#2
Unit 5302 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 5,246	Sounds like a clutch adjustment issue. Either something is causing problems with the adjustment or something like the throw out arm is bent, or dragging. Your clutch could be coming apart, I've seen it happen 1st hand, or your pressure plate could have some broken or cracking fingers. The thowout bearing shouldn't have anything to do with disengagement, and you cannot bend shift forks (you can break them, however.) as they are made out of cast aluminum. I'd take a look underneath the car, make sure the dust cover is properly installed still, if it's hanging down it could be rubbing on the throwout arm which could cause the adjustment issues. As far as the rear main leaking, it's pretty doubtful it'll affect your clutch. Since the rear main is in front of the flywheel, the entire clutch assembly is shielded from the oil it leaks. Now it's technically possible the oil it's dripping could get thrown around a little, but not enough to cause major problems unless it's totally shot. Even if it was, your shifting wouldn't be effected. Bottom line, it's something keeping your clutch from fully disengaging.

06-17-2001, 10:26 AM	#3
jetuomi Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada Posts: 214	Hey TEX I have a MAC shifter, and just last week, I noticed that it was getting harder and harder to put into any gear.. My problem was that the the top plate that bolts into the shifter base was a bit loose, and actually off centre, so the shift-guides were about 5-10 degrees counter clockwise, and although plate was loose, it was just not loose enough, so each time I shifted, I would be repositioning the plate with the shifter. (if that makes any sense). And the higher the revs, the more the vibration, the more the plate would shift.. Now, I don't know about the B&M shifter, but, if you've got a shifter-guide that is bolted down to the base, I'd check that for tightness.. If not, then, I have no clue! : ) ------------------ 94 Mustang GT (black on black) K&N, MAC Shifter, FMS 9mm, 0017" rims, 3.27, 13*, MSD Coil, on a diet

06-20-2001, 06:37 PM	#4
TEXSN95 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: college station, tx Posts: 143	Hey Unit when you say throwout arm...do you mean the clutch fork? It didn't look like it could be bent...just broken. Can I tell just by looking up through the dusc cover? Jetuomi - good idea with the shifter, but mine was fine. I was hoping that was the problem. This is very annoying since it started out of the blue :-(. ------------------ Clint L. White 95 Cobra #3637 58cc GT40X heads with mild porting, Crane 2031 cam, FRPP 65 TB, 1.7s, Cobra intake, homeade cold air, 155lph, pullies, Tokico Illuminas, C springs, GW LCAs, Kenny Brown super subs, Steeda CC plates, aluminum driveshaft, Steeda quadrant, B&M ripper, Kirban FPR, MSD6A, Taylor wires, Mac shorties, off road hpipe, 2 1/2 ultra flows w/ dumps, R hood, Euro clear corners, stock 3.08s 13.61 @ 104.7 w/ 2.22

06-22-2001, 12:43 AM	#5
jwboner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Under the hood Posts: 164	Try sync shifting (shifting through the gears without using the clutch pedal) It's hard to explain, just when revving through lets say first, just before you would normally shift apply a little pressure as if you were about to shift, and it shouldn't come out of gear while you are on the gas. Then let off the gas and the shifter will pop out of gear and as rpms lower a little it should go into 2nd pretty easily without ever having to use the clutch. If it shifts easily or easier than with the clutch then it is linkage or cable or something on that end. Good to narrow it down, and also comes in handy when clutch breaks and limp home starting in gear.