got my 86 LX. Looking for pricing on 351? How much is right for block?

Lexicon · 07-02-2001, 02:25 PM

I just picked up an 86 LX. I am going to make a straight line car out of this one and was looking at 351 blocks. How much for a 351 block plain. I have found them for a variety of prices, but how much would or should one pay for one that is cleaned and ready to work on? I am wanting to know the highest amount that I should pay for a plain block in Good to great condition. Thank you for the help.

------------------
1994 GT, Performance "Ticket" Red. Stock block with E-303 Cam, 351 "Boss Spec" Heads, Crane 1.7 Rockers, Cobra R Intake, Griffin Aluminum Radiator, BBK 70mm TB, FMS Aluminum Drive Shaft, FMS Clutch "Cobra", BBK Headers, BBK H-pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Zoom Clutch Qradrant. All mating surfaces are port matched and clean, Car is lowered and is factory look. Sound sytem: Sony MD Head Unit, Sony 10-disc with memo Changer, Alpine DSP Equalizer and BBE Center, Image Dynamics Component Drivers (2high

juiceman · 07-02-2001, 08:16 PM

well, a 351 goes for 200$ no more. but if you want a 351 that has been taken apart and hot tanked already then 300$ is the limit. as an engine builder i must ask, what are your intentions with a 351. meaning how fast do you want to go and hows your budget. if you have any other questions feel free to ask and im always looking to build motors for people so keep that in mind. im not your standard engine builder.

Lexicon · 07-02-2001, 09:50 PM

Well, the deal is I am wishing to build a car for the local strip in this area with the ability to be competitive in the some form. Money situation is based on my buddy's and my own investment. I have access to do minor machining, access to electrical harnesses production, therefore having something to take some of the cost out. I wish to build the motor and have been doing a huge amount of research on the historical aspects of the Ford V-8. I have managed to do a nice Street car and would like to try elsewhere. I am really wishing to be based on a 351+ c.i.d combination. just picked up a excellent condition (forgiving the terrible paint job) 86 LX Sedan back 4cyl car. This thing is in great condition and perfect to build a racer on. We are very much still evaluating our intended course straight line (tracks around), road events (Detroit, nearest I think). Drag-car is the highest chance right now. I do not have a "budget" set right now, but that is saying we are trying to do this ourselves while maximizing our $$$ investment. Right now I am looking for a block to get a start with and will start preparing the car in the next 4-6 months. It is something we have been discussing for months now, and we are now committing to the project.

juiceman · 07-03-2001, 01:36 PM

well, ill tell you this. if you intend on building the engine yourself and are very good at it then that helps, but if you think you will be saving money by building it yourself and have no real experience then your not. look at it like this, if you buy all those parts and you blow that motor then its all no good. another thing i would recommend is to get the best stuff you can afford. remember, the motor is only as good as the weakest part. so it makes no sense to buy good pistons and rods only to put them in a stock block with stock crank. same with the heads. when the rod or crank breaks it will take everything else with it. this is not to say that you cant build a good mostly stock egine, but keep in mind how fast you want to go and be realistic with everything. a stock block,crank, rods can handle 500 hp at 6200 rpm for a season if youre lucky. weve got as far as the 10's on a stock bottom end but it doesnt last. oh, and girdles, well they dont really help. so if you think you can use one and make more power youre wrong. they keep the bottom mains together a little better but it doesnt allow you to make more power.

Lexicon · 07-03-2001, 09:43 PM

Very much intend to use the best components. I do not wish to cut any corners. I am going to try and advance my skills with this project and very much appreciate the advice from your experience. I am not going to go super nuts on this project, but will work for a realistic limit. I am still deciding the class I wish to compete in, but again have not decided. Any suggestions are welcome and again, appreciate your input.

sweet88coupe · 07-04-2001, 02:18 AM

I just purchased two 351W complete engines for 150 bucks, one run and one did'nt. I would not pay no more that 100 bucks for a single 351.

juiceman · 07-04-2001, 11:53 PM

its good that you have good intentions and are realistic with this project. the fact that you want to learn is also good. the best way is to just do it. one thing though, you plan on running a class with that car. that will be very demanding on both you and the car. meaning, you will end up putting more money than you think in it and more time. since these classes are so competitive that motor will have to be in top shape all season. if thats not a problem then go for it. but if you just want to get your feet wet, build a good motor and race open comp. good luck with it.

07-02-2001, 02:25 PM	#1
Lexicon Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Evansville, Indiana Posts: 182	got my 86 LX. Looking for pricing on 351? How much is right for block? I just picked up an 86 LX. I am going to make a straight line car out of this one and was looking at 351 blocks. How much for a 351 block plain. I have found them for a variety of prices, but how much would or should one pay for one that is cleaned and ready to work on? I am wanting to know the highest amount that I should pay for a plain block in Good to great condition. Thank you for the help. ------------------ 1994 GT, Performance "Ticket" Red. Stock block with E-303 Cam, 351 "Boss Spec" Heads, Crane 1.7 Rockers, Cobra R Intake, Griffin Aluminum Radiator, BBK 70mm TB, FMS Aluminum Drive Shaft, FMS Clutch "Cobra", BBK Headers, BBK H-pipe, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Zoom Clutch Qradrant. All mating surfaces are port matched and clean, Car is lowered and is factory look. Sound sytem: Sony MD Head Unit, Sony 10-disc with memo Changer, Alpine DSP Equalizer and BBE Center, Image Dynamics Component Drivers (2high

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07-02-2001, 08:16 PM	#2
juiceman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: ny Posts: 197	well, a 351 goes for 200$ no more. but if you want a 351 that has been taken apart and hot tanked already then 300$ is the limit. as an engine builder i must ask, what are your intentions with a 351. meaning how fast do you want to go and hows your budget. if you have any other questions feel free to ask and im always looking to build motors for people so keep that in mind. im not your standard engine builder.

07-02-2001, 09:50 PM	#3
Lexicon Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Evansville, Indiana Posts: 182	Well, the deal is I am wishing to build a car for the local strip in this area with the ability to be competitive in the some form. Money situation is based on my buddy's and my own investment. I have access to do minor machining, access to electrical harnesses production, therefore having something to take some of the cost out. I wish to build the motor and have been doing a huge amount of research on the historical aspects of the Ford V-8. I have managed to do a nice Street car and would like to try elsewhere. I am really wishing to be based on a 351+ c.i.d combination. just picked up a excellent condition (forgiving the terrible paint job) 86 LX Sedan back 4cyl car. This thing is in great condition and perfect to build a racer on. We are very much still evaluating our intended course straight line (tracks around), road events (Detroit, nearest I think). Drag-car is the highest chance right now. I do not have a "budget" set right now, but that is saying we are trying to do this ourselves while maximizing our $$$ investment. Right now I am looking for a block to get a start with and will start preparing the car in the next 4-6 months. It is something we have been discussing for months now, and we are now committing to the project.

07-03-2001, 01:36 PM	#4
juiceman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: ny Posts: 197	well, ill tell you this. if you intend on building the engine yourself and are very good at it then that helps, but if you think you will be saving money by building it yourself and have no real experience then your not. look at it like this, if you buy all those parts and you blow that motor then its all no good. another thing i would recommend is to get the best stuff you can afford. remember, the motor is only as good as the weakest part. so it makes no sense to buy good pistons and rods only to put them in a stock block with stock crank. same with the heads. when the rod or crank breaks it will take everything else with it. this is not to say that you cant build a good mostly stock egine, but keep in mind how fast you want to go and be realistic with everything. a stock block,crank, rods can handle 500 hp at 6200 rpm for a season if youre lucky. weve got as far as the 10's on a stock bottom end but it doesnt last. oh, and girdles, well they dont really help. so if you think you can use one and make more power youre wrong. they keep the bottom mains together a little better but it doesnt allow you to make more power.

07-03-2001, 09:43 PM	#5
Lexicon Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Evansville, Indiana Posts: 182	Very much intend to use the best components. I do not wish to cut any corners. I am going to try and advance my skills with this project and very much appreciate the advice from your experience. I am not going to go super nuts on this project, but will work for a realistic limit. I am still deciding the class I wish to compete in, but again have not decided. Any suggestions are welcome and again, appreciate your input.

07-04-2001, 02:18 AM	#6
sweet88coupe Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: westville, fl 32464 Posts: 10	I just purchased two 351W complete engines for 150 bucks, one run and one did'nt. I would not pay no more that 100 bucks for a single 351.

07-04-2001, 11:53 PM	#7
juiceman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: ny Posts: 197	its good that you have good intentions and are realistic with this project. the fact that you want to learn is also good. the best way is to just do it. one thing though, you plan on running a class with that car. that will be very demanding on both you and the car. meaning, you will end up putting more money than you think in it and more time. since these classes are so competitive that motor will have to be in top shape all season. if thats not a problem then go for it. but if you just want to get your feet wet, build a good motor and race open comp. good luck with it.