Need some professional advice - head work, valve springs, rockers, cam. pretty long.

AxemanZZ · 01-10-2001, 11:46 AM

I am doing some work on a set of stock E7 heads to install with my GT-40 intake. I am going to have the larger 1.94/1.60 vlaves put in them and I am doing a little port work on them myself.

I also would like to bump my compression up by shaving the heads .030 or so. Can anyone tell me where this will put my compression? I've been told .030 is a safe number to take off of the heads. Is this info correct, and wouldn't I have to shim the rockers?

For a cam and rockers, I am considering an F or custom grind with 1.6 roller rockers. I've been told that would work good with my intake. Any other recommendations here? Please be specific as to duration, lift, etc because I know absolutely nothing about cams.

I need help ASAP because I have a mill free at work to shave the heads down and I need to get these heads and everything else ready to install pronto because I just can't wait to see how the GT-40 improves my performance.

Thanks.

Oh yeah, my engine is completely stock right now if that helps.

------------------
90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

[This message has been edited by AxemanZZ (edited 01-10-2001).]

Tom351 · 01-10-2001, 11:52 AM

.030 should be around half a point of compression. That amount of milling won't cause any problems. F cam sounds good, be sure to check piston-valve clearance. Standard Abrasives has a online head porting guide at their website if you need info on that. Are you installing screw in studs for the rockers?

------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

silver_pilate · 01-10-2001, 12:23 PM

Axeman,

As far as the cam goes...let me tell you that I absolutely love the Wolverine 1087. I run it with ported iron Windsor Jr.s, 1.6 Crane rockers, and 10:1 compression. The cam really eats up the extra compression and screams from 2500 past 6000 rpms. Works great with my tranny setup.

Cam specs: 222/232 durtation at .05" lift; .510"/.534" lift; 112 LSA.

The cam performs great on the street with no major idle issues other than it sounds meaner that Hades.

--nathan

------------------
--silver_pilate

'91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods...

Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh...
--Texas Panhandle--
Check out my site

AxemanZZ · 01-10-2001, 12:31 PM

What's involved in installing the screw in studs for the rockers? And how would they benefit me?

What should I have for the minimum piston to valve clearance?

I'll check out that cam silver_pilate

Thanks a lot guys.

------------------
90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

silver_pilate · 01-10-2001, 12:36 PM

Oh...forgot to mention, I'm not sure how much clearance that cam will give you on stock pistons. You may have to notch the pistons (if I had to guess...I'd say likely). I'm running some Keith Black pistons with a big ol' dish cut in them so I have a ton of clearance.

Make a few calls to quality engine builders (Keith Craft Racing, DSS, etc.) and see what they think.

Oh, and again....I LOVE this cam.

--nathan

AxemanZZ · 01-10-2001, 02:00 PM

I didn't want to have to swap out the pistons because the engine is staying in the car. Has anyone run an F cam with 1.6 roller rockers on the stock heads that can tell me what they had for piston to valve clearance?

Thanks again.

------------------
90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

spinemup · 01-10-2001, 02:13 PM

there are some flow #'s on the corral's tech article section for ported e7's that might help you with your cam choice (f cam seems perfect)

Tom351 · 01-10-2001, 03:54 PM

for studs, they need to pull the old ones, and tap the head for screw in studs. The press in studs can get puled out with big cams that use higher valve spring pressures

------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

gray87GT · 01-10-2001, 06:52 PM

You should be fine with the cam, as long as you stick with 1.6 rockers

AxemanZZ · 01-11-2001, 02:42 AM

Ok, the pedastals are already tapped and there aren't any studs in there. I got these heads from a friend so maybe he already installed studs on them? They seem to be pretty small studs though. And what size studs do I need?

I started porting one of the heads tonight. Man, this is fun! I haven't done anything in the bowls yet, and am kinda scared to. But I am going to grind off the exhaust valve boss inside the bowl and smooth out the intake one a bit. Anyone do there own port work? If so any tips you might have will be much appreciated.

I do have another question that I hope someone can answer (sorry to be asking so much of you guys). I was thinking about getting some header gaskets and lay out the ports on the head for a guide to open the ports up a bit. Are the ports (pipes) on the MAC long tubes big enough that they won't be smaller than the openings in the heads if I open them out this far?

------------------
90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

Tom351 · 01-11-2001, 09:26 AM

Do not grind the valve guide boss off, just streamline it!

I have ported 351W heads and Trick Flow Aluminum heads, I would suggest just cleaning the ports up without removing much metal. Finish the intake ports with 60 grit and make the combustion chamber and exhaust ports as smooth as possible. If you polish the chambers be sure to remove a minimum amout of material.
The studs are usually 3/8" or 7/16" at the top, but I am not sure about the threads that go into the head.

Check out this website for porting tips
Good Luck
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

01-11-2001, 11:19 AM

I have an F cam with GT-40 heads shaved 30. So you should be safe in doing that. I would double check it though by claying the pistons.

Capri306 · 01-11-2001, 12:16 PM

Be careful when working in the bowl area. A LOT of ppl screw up by taking too much out of there. Remember you need the radii so the air can curve and go through the port, not slam into the side of it. Be Careful!

------------------
Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

<--- New Timeslips

AxemanZZ · 01-11-2001, 12:37 PM

Yeah that's the part I'm afraid of. But I have a pretty good eye when it comes to radii and that kinda stuff since I do a lot of carving, wood working, machining of jet engine parts, etc. I think I'll be ok.

As for the exhaust side I think I am ready to start on the bowls. I smoothed the exhaust ports a bit and made the opening more rectangular in shape. I didn't open the port up more than 1/16" or so.

AxemanZZ · 01-11-2001, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tom351:
Do not grind the valve guide boss off, just streamline it!

I have been following the article over at Ford Muscle's website. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ng/index.shtml
It says to grind the exhaust valve boss even with the roof of the bowl.

------------------
90 Mustang LX 5.0
My Ride*My Site

Tom351 · 01-11-2001, 01:30 PM

OK maybe you can remove it, but I have seen articles and books that say not to remove all of it. That may be overcautious though.

------------------
67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint
351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars.

My 351W Fastback

01-10-2001, 11:46 AM	#1
AxemanZZ Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Indiana Posts: 984	Need some professional advice - head work, valve springs, rockers, cam. pretty long. I am doing some work on a set of stock E7 heads to install with my GT-40 intake. I am going to have the larger 1.94/1.60 vlaves put in them and I am doing a little port work on them myself. I also would like to bump my compression up by shaving the heads .030 or so. Can anyone tell me where this will put my compression? I've been told .030 is a safe number to take off of the heads. Is this info correct, and wouldn't I have to shim the rockers? For a cam and rockers, I am considering an F or custom grind with 1.6 roller rockers. I've been told that would work good with my intake. Any other recommendations here? Please be specific as to duration, lift, etc because I know absolutely nothing about cams. I need help ASAP because I have a mill free at work to shave the heads down and I need to get these heads and everything else ready to install pronto because I just can't wait to see how the GT-40 improves my performance. Thanks. Oh yeah, my engine is completely stock right now if that helps. ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site [This message has been edited by AxemanZZ (edited 01-10-2001).]

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Summer Plans	Stang_Girl617	Blue Oval Lounge	12	06-06-2004 02:22 AM
valve springs....questions	Old Guy with 87 GT	Windsor Power	5	05-03-2002 06:36 AM
Valve Springs & Roller Rockers	StreetStang37	Windsor Power	4	04-17-2001 03:54 AM
1.6 rockers, will the stock valve cover work?	Shotgun28	Windsor Power	2	02-22-2001 02:09 PM

01-10-2001, 11:52 AM	#2
Tom351 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Atlanta,GA,USA Posts: 278	.030 should be around half a point of compression. That amount of milling won't cause any problems. F cam sounds good, be sure to check piston-valve clearance. Standard Abrasives has a online head porting guide at their website if you need info on that. Are you installing screw in studs for the rockers? ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback

01-10-2001, 12:23 PM	#3
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Axeman, As far as the cam goes...let me tell you that I absolutely love the Wolverine 1087. I run it with ported iron Windsor Jr.s, 1.6 Crane rockers, and 10:1 compression. The cam really eats up the extra compression and screams from 2500 past 6000 rpms. Works great with my tranny setup. Cam specs: 222/232 durtation at .05" lift; .510"/.534" lift; 112 LSA. The cam performs great on the street with no major idle issues other than it sounds meaner that Hades. --nathan ------------------ --silver_pilate '91 GT, Built 306, Wolverine 1087 cam, ported Windsor Jr. Irons, and all the goodies...click the link to the left to see a full list of my mods... Tried and True 302 Being Built to Outrun You! heh heh heh... --Texas Panhandle-- Check out my site

01-10-2001, 12:31 PM	#4
AxemanZZ Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Indiana Posts: 984	What's involved in installing the screw in studs for the rockers? And how would they benefit me? What should I have for the minimum piston to valve clearance? I'll check out that cam silver_pilate Thanks a lot guys. ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site

01-10-2001, 12:36 PM	#5
silver_pilate DURKA DURKA!! Join Date: Sep 1997 Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle) Posts: 1,418	Oh...forgot to mention, I'm not sure how much clearance that cam will give you on stock pistons. You may have to notch the pistons (if I had to guess...I'd say likely). I'm running some Keith Black pistons with a big ol' dish cut in them so I have a ton of clearance. Make a few calls to quality engine builders (Keith Craft Racing, DSS, etc.) and see what they think. Oh, and again....I LOVE this cam. --nathan

01-10-2001, 02:00 PM	#6
AxemanZZ Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Indiana Posts: 984	I didn't want to have to swap out the pistons because the engine is staying in the car. Has anyone run an F cam with 1.6 roller rockers on the stock heads that can tell me what they had for piston to valve clearance? Thanks again. ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site

01-10-2001, 02:13 PM	#7
spinemup Registered Member Join Date: May 2000 Location: middleboro,ma, usa Posts: 734	there are some flow #'s on the corral's tech article section for ported e7's that might help you with your cam choice (f cam seems perfect)

01-10-2001, 03:54 PM	#8
Tom351 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Atlanta,GA,USA Posts: 278	for studs, they need to pull the old ones, and tap the head for screw in studs. The press in studs can get puled out with big cams that use higher valve spring pressures ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback

01-10-2001, 06:52 PM	#9
gray87GT Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Minnesota Posts: 177	You should be fine with the cam, as long as you stick with 1.6 rockers

01-11-2001, 02:42 AM	#10
AxemanZZ Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Indiana Posts: 984	Ok, the pedastals are already tapped and there aren't any studs in there. I got these heads from a friend so maybe he already installed studs on them? They seem to be pretty small studs though. And what size studs do I need? I started porting one of the heads tonight. Man, this is fun! I haven't done anything in the bowls yet, and am kinda scared to. But I am going to grind off the exhaust valve boss inside the bowl and smooth out the intake one a bit. Anyone do there own port work? If so any tips you might have will be much appreciated. I do have another question that I hope someone can answer (sorry to be asking so much of you guys). I was thinking about getting some header gaskets and lay out the ports on the head for a guide to open the ports up a bit. Are the ports (pipes) on the MAC long tubes big enough that they won't be smaller than the openings in the heads if I open them out this far? ------------------ 90 Mustang LX 5.0 My Ride*My Site

01-11-2001, 09:26 AM	#11
Tom351 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Atlanta,GA,USA Posts: 278	Do not grind the valve guide boss off, just streamline it! I have ported 351W heads and Trick Flow Aluminum heads, I would suggest just cleaning the ports up without removing much metal. Finish the intake ports with 60 grit and make the combustion chamber and exhaust ports as smooth as possible. If you polish the chambers be sure to remove a minimum amout of material. The studs are usually 3/8" or 7/16" at the top, but I am not sure about the threads that go into the head. Check out this website for porting tips Good Luck http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback

01-11-2001, 11:19 AM	#12
88GT5.013.02 Guest Posts: n/a	I have an F cam with GT-40 heads shaved 30. So you should be safe in doing that. I would double check it though by claying the pistons.

01-11-2001, 12:16 PM	#13
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	Be careful when working in the bowl area. A LOT of ppl screw up by taking too much out of there. Remember you need the radii so the air can curve and go through the port, not slam into the side of it. Be Careful! ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch <--- New Timeslips

01-11-2001, 12:37 PM	#14
AxemanZZ Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Indiana Posts: 984	Yeah that's the part I'm afraid of. But I have a pretty good eye when it comes to radii and that kinda stuff since I do a lot of carving, wood working, machining of jet engine parts, etc. I think I'll be ok. As for the exhaust side I think I am ready to start on the bowls. I smoothed the exhaust ports a bit and made the opening more rectangular in shape. I didn't open the port up more than 1/16" or so.

01-11-2001, 01:30 PM	#16
Tom351 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Atlanta,GA,USA Posts: 278	OK maybe you can remove it, but I have seen articles and books that say not to remove all of it. That may be overcautious though. ------------------ 67 Fastback - Arctic White Pearl paint 351W ,Trick Flow Aluminum Heads, Edelbrock TorkerII, Comp. Cam, Performance Automatic C-4 Trans, 3.55 gears, Front Disc Brakes, 1-1/8" Fr. 3/4" rear sway bars. My 351W Fastback