Damn Car, Good Mileage
 

Well my cars been acting weird, and after I get home from San Diego (Atleast it got me home) I try and start it up and click, nothing. Lights work and come on, dash lights go on, but it doesnt do anything when I try to start it, not even a sound.

Gonna be a pain figuring this out.... It did get 21mpg going down to San Diego going between 3400-3900rpm the whole way, and 1 15min streach of 4200rpm on the toll freeway. :) I wasnt being gas concious at all so the mileage really surprized me. On the way home I got 19.5, but I raced a new GT and 2 rice rockets so that would account for the loss in mileage.

Skyler

Fuel pump relay, the fuel pump itself, the starter solenoid, or the starter. That's whats on the top of my head. I've had three of the four go on me. The fuel pump twice.


Where PKRWUD?? He'll know.

I'll take ignition or starter relay for $500 alex.

I've got $20 that says the car would run if you bump started it, based on what you are saying is wrong. Check the entire ignition sys for an open wire or ground, and you should be all fixed up.

I'll tell u right now it's not anything to do with the fuel, if it won't turn over.

Here I go, if it's a auto tranny, it could be the neutral safety switch. If it's a manual, then it sounds like it's the starter solenoid. To find out if it's the solenoid or starter, here's what u do. Find an old screwdriver and then find your solenoid. U will see either three or four posts on it. I hope three because it makes this easier to type out.

Here's what u do, take the screwdriver and connect it to the side from the batt, to the one small post(three config), this might cause some arcing, but don't worry about it. If u did this right, and the solenoid works, the car should turn over(make sure it's in park or out of gear first!). If this did work, then if your cars a auto, it's prob your safety switch. If it's a manual, then it's prob your ignition switch.

If nothing happends, then try to connect from the batt side directly to the starter side of the solenoid. This will cause lots of arcing. If it turns over then, then it's the solenoid. If still nothing. Then it's prob your starter.

Doh!!!! You're right. I should have read more closely. "Doesn't start" registered in my brain, but thats it.

Geeeeze you guys are ready to rebuild the whole car before you check the battery ???

put a voltmeter on the battery terminals ... should read around 12.6 volts or so ... have somebody try to start the car while you watch the voltmeter... if the voltage drops way down (like below about 9.5 volts ) then your battery is shot.

I just had the same problem in a 97 GT and the battery read 12.68 volts but if you even opened the door and the dome light came on it dropped clear below 9 volts ... put in a new battery and whamo ... runs like the finely tuned machine that it is

:cool:

Sky, did it start to run a little funny on the way back and did you have any loss of power? what i am thinking is it isnt charging and you were running on just your battery. Do what HotRoddin says first, then check to see if you are charging.

sky dont remember your year car, but on newer models, that arcing crap might fry you computer, it was ok on older model's, but i wouldnt even go there. :eek: :)

The starter/solinoid/battery are all less than a year old. It was definatly charging so I dont think thats the problem. It probably is the solinoid or a bad connection, will start to try and figure out whats going on with it tomrrow.

Skyler

It's just a little arc, should cause no problems at all. Depends on how quickly he applies the screwdriver, if he's slow, more sparks. But as for the comp, he doesn't have to have the car even on.

good luck sky man, cya. ;) :)

I thought the voltage was supposed to be around 14 between the terminals on a properly operating electric system. I had around 12.5 when I tested mine last week and I assumed that was low. My car doesn't charge well at idle because of the pulleys.