Stock Brakes Suck! Help!

07-06-2001, 01:16 PM

Hey guys, I still have my stock braking system......starting to feel a little sloppy (basically braking sucks). How can I upgrade my brakes w/ out spending too much $$$? Your advice/thoughts are appreciated.

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'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

Mr 5 0 · 07-06-2001, 02:51 PM

The easiest way to upgrade braking is to get better pads and be sure your system is in top condition (rotors, calipers, lines, etc).
Kevlar pads are quite popular and not that expensive. With those and maybe a fill of DOT-4 brake fluid and an otherwise sound brake system you should notice a difference.
If you're still not comfortable with the braking ability of your Mustang, you can go to bigger front brakes or even 4-wheel brakes, but that's getting into big bucks.
Try new pads, first.

07-06-2001, 04:20 PM

Thanks. I'll try that out.......since even my pads are stock (not alot of mileage but they're still 11 years old)

.

------------------
'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

red82gt · 07-06-2001, 04:53 PM

Stainless steel caliper bushings will help a little and are only about $30, you can also get 73mm Lincoln mark VII calipers and they'll bolt right on. Stainless steel brake hoses are also available. These should make your car stop much better with a good set of pads.

------------------
GT-40 heads (ported, polished, + milled), B303 cam, 1.7rr's, JE pistons, Offy intake, Carter AFB 625cfm carb, Flowtech 1 5/8" shortys, Flowtech X-pipe, MAC Flowpath exhaust, MAC pulleys, 373's, subframes, Eibachs+Tokicos, B&M ripper, FMS Clutch, Zoom Quadrant+cable, 17" CSA Ultra rims, 235/45ZR17 Yokohama AVS S4's, MSD 6A ignition+coil, FMS 9mm wires, Carbed, Naturally Aspirated, and Nasty!

trbkrb · 07-07-2001, 07:18 PM

As always - see Matt's website - LOTS of good info
http://svo73mm.cjb.net/

------------------
Basically stock 87 LX 5.0, owned since 3/31/1987. 216,000+ mile daily driver, GT interior, King Cobra clutch, World Class T-5, GT turbine wheels.
Plans: GT hatch & spoiler, rear disk brakes, and a PAINT JOB!

07-06-2001, 01:16 PM	#1
bada$$lx Guest Posts: n/a	Stock Brakes Suck! Help! Hey guys, I still have my stock braking system......starting to feel a little sloppy (basically braking sucks). How can I upgrade my brakes w/ out spending too much $$$? Your advice/thoughts are appreciated. ------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

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07-06-2001, 02:51 PM	#2
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	The easiest way to upgrade braking is to get better pads and be sure your system is in top condition (rotors, calipers, lines, etc). Kevlar pads are quite popular and not that expensive. With those and maybe a fill of DOT-4 brake fluid and an otherwise sound brake system you should notice a difference. If you're still not comfortable with the braking ability of your Mustang, you can go to bigger front brakes or even 4-wheel brakes, but that's getting into big bucks. Try new pads, first.

07-06-2001, 04:20 PM	#3
bada$$lx Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks. I'll try that out.......since even my pads are stock (not alot of mileage but they're still 11 years old) . ------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

07-06-2001, 04:53 PM	#4
red82gt Sober voice of Reason Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada Posts: 1,514	Stainless steel caliper bushings will help a little and are only about $30, you can also get 73mm Lincoln mark VII calipers and they'll bolt right on. Stainless steel brake hoses are also available. These should make your car stop much better with a good set of pads. ------------------ GT-40 heads (ported, polished, + milled), B303 cam, 1.7rr's, JE pistons, Offy intake, Carter AFB 625cfm carb, Flowtech 1 5/8" shortys, Flowtech X-pipe, MAC Flowpath exhaust, MAC pulleys, 373's, subframes, Eibachs+Tokicos, B&M ripper, FMS Clutch, Zoom Quadrant+cable, 17" CSA Ultra rims, 235/45ZR17 Yokohama AVS S4's, MSD 6A ignition+coil, FMS 9mm wires, Carbed, Naturally Aspirated, and Nasty!

07-07-2001, 07:18 PM	#5
trbkrb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 9	As always - see Matt's website - LOTS of good info http://svo73mm.cjb.net/ ------------------ Basically stock 87 LX 5.0, owned since 3/31/1987. 216,000+ mile daily driver, GT interior, King Cobra clutch, World Class T-5, GT turbine wheels. Plans: GT hatch & spoiler, rear disk brakes, and a PAINT JOB!