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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: sloatsburg
Posts: 261
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![]() i want to pull my motor but i dont really feel like pulling the whole tranny out can i pul it and leave the tranny in just unbolt the bellhousing has anyone done it this way i ussually just pull the trasnny and motor in one shot
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306 edelbrock 6037 heads full mac exuast 1.7 rr 373 rear hd clutch tremec mighty demon 650 carb msd ignition rpm air gap intake custom cam still trying to get it to run right |
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#2 |
Get down.....
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Room 103
Posts: 2,095
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![]() just unbolt the bellhousing from the tranny, not the motor and you are good to go. simple as pie.
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Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------ |
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#3 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 799
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![]() last time i pulled my motor i did that, the only thing that is going to be a pain is getting the motor back in with the trans still bolted in place. i had a helluva time getting the input shaft to line up, it took me 2 hours to get it right, you might have better luck.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: sloatsburg
Posts: 261
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![]() thats what i thought just being hard to get back in cause these tremecs are a pain even when you try doing it when the motor and trans are on the ground
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306 edelbrock 6037 heads full mac exuast 1.7 rr 373 rear hd clutch tremec mighty demon 650 carb msd ignition rpm air gap intake custom cam still trying to get it to run right |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Fort Leonard Wood, MO
Posts: 179
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![]() So what's the deal easier to take the trans and motor out as one or unbolt the bell housing from the trans? I have always done it the first way as well but I don't want to pull the trans if i can get away with it. Is there an easy way to line up the engine with the input shaft?
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93 GT, 5.8 EFI usual bolt ons, 3.55's, subs, hurst, K+N 78 F100 Short bed, 5.8, dual pipes 4 bbl 03 Sable |
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#6 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 799
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![]() from my experiance i would say just drop the trans then pull the motor. then put the motor back and bolt up the tranny. or if you wanna wrestle with it just pull them together and put them in together. thats what i would do, i also had a helluva time just swapping out the old t5 with the tremec, tremec didnt want to go in for nothin. just my .02
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#7 |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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![]() Having done this over the summer, I would say just pull and install the whole kit and kaboodle (engine and tranny
![]() Hope this helps. E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Gatineau, Qc, Canada
Posts: 62
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![]() I would suggest all at once... At least to put them back in. Will save you time and swearing.
Nik |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() I've done both and I like leaving the tranny if your going to use an engine stand once the motor is out because you'll just be unbolting the tranny anyway then. it didn't take me long at all to line up the input shaft with the motor.
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: southeast texas
Posts: 90
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![]() I always just put a jack under the front of the tranny and pull the motor and bell together(lakewood)...the first time going back in I had a hard time but found a trick that worked for me that sounds weird but has worked the last 3 times I've went back in. Figured the trick out while I was shoving and cursing because it would'nt line up( go all but an 1 1/2 inch in).
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AFR 1492 heads,Track Heat Intake, d.s.s super pro bullet 331, lakewood bell, king cobra, 3550 ,UPR shifter, aluminum shaft, 4.10, 31-spline, spool,hoosier27x10, moroso ds-2, 175-juice, egt...11.40 on motor spray pass coming. |
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#11 |
motors done......woohooo
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 799
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![]() transam86: little off subject but, who is that in your avatar
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: southeast texas
Posts: 90
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![]() I always connect my clutch cable up and have someone in the car pressing on the clutch. but only do this if the trannys almost all the way in....(another words spline on tranny already through clutch splines...if not youll have to pull bell and re-align with an alignment tool again( major pain in the back if you have a lakewood. this has worked for me the last few times....none of my friends or me have put much thought to it but it worked.
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AFR 1492 heads,Track Heat Intake, d.s.s super pro bullet 331, lakewood bell, king cobra, 3550 ,UPR shifter, aluminum shaft, 4.10, 31-spline, spool,hoosier27x10, moroso ds-2, 175-juice, egt...11.40 on motor spray pass coming. |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Sanford NC USA
Posts: 155
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![]() yeh im with sn95gt19 who is that?
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88 Hatch 10.60's @ 130 89 Hatch Not as fast but holds its own |
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#14 |
Sober voice of Reason
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Kelowna, B.C., Canada
Posts: 1,514
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![]() I always leave the tranny in, I haven't had a problem lining up the input shaft and the clutch, I get it in place with the engine still dangling and then drop it the rest of the way onto the mounts. easy stuff.
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393W: AFR 205's, hydraulic roller, TKO600. |
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#15 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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![]() Either way Motor+tranny or Motor without tranny.
I have done both. With an automatic, I would ONLY do both at the same time. With the TKO, I did it 3 times, twice without the tranny (but tranny was already out for repairs, before I started on motor). Here are some photos: http://www.dariusrudis.com/mustang/engine
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
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#16 |
Mustang Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 528
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![]() It wasn't too bad lining up the shaft.
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#17 |
Mustangs
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,938
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![]() IF you have two people lining up an engine and tranny, it's easy as pie. I've had to do this a few times, and that's the way i would to it. I'd think lining up the mounts after re-installing the trans/engine would be more of a pain that just dropping the engine in and jiggling it till it falls together. I've never had any problems getting in an engine just by itself.
It really helps when you have a jack under the trans bellhousing and a leveler on the engine hoist chain, those are worth their weight in gold when installing an engine.
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2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem ![]() 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 ![]() 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock) |
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