Finally got it in , how's it look?
 

Well after 6months of delays I'm closer than ever to starting my car. I was suppose to use a Hooker Header but they didn't fit. Kooks is making me a set now and are suppoe to fit like a glove.
Radiator shroud was being fitted . Two weeks tops and we'll be running.
http://members.cox.net/gpherbert/MVC-585F.jpg

wow, looks very nice:cool:

351?

whats the specs?

Nice looking. When you get it done, if you can, post a dyno run sheet so we all can see what kind of hp and torque you are making.:D

Thanks !!!! The car is a 1983GT , I'm the original owner , its only got 38,000 miles. The engine is a 408W w/ TFS"R" heads. Forged everything,,,,,,,Lunati Solid Roller, 10.5 to 1 COMP. SuperVictor w/ BIGGS 950. Oh yea its also got a "REAL" 5 SPEED in it, DOUGNASH w/ LONG VERTGATE shifter. Dr.Gas 3 1/2" Xpipe into 3" MaC pro dumps , Cervini 4" cowl hood.

Built to go 610-625FWHP. If we get 550; I'll be happy........on pump gas. A/C will go back on as soon as its running and I know It'll handle the heat.

The entire car has been gone through over the last few months. It's sat idle for over 6yrs now. We also put a complete HAL(QA1) tubular front end on it. Hoping it'll go some 10.0's @130+ on the motor and deep 9's with a small squeeze of NOS.

Totally streetable. It won't be long now ..............................

WOW that's a beast, I love it :)

Dude your car is awesome man. The engine is a beautiful sight! I will be waiting to hear what you run in the 1/4 mile. Keep us posted.

You should DEFINITELY post some sound clips and/or videos when you get it running. The x-pipe with 3" dumps probably won't sound very tough, OH WAIT!

SWEET!!
 

KILLER CAR MAN, I'D LOVE TO SEE WHAT SHE PULLS IN THE 1/4. SOME QUICK QUESTIONS. HOW MUCH DID IT ALL COST AND HOW LONG TO PUT TOGETHER??? I WANT TO START A PROJECT SIMILAR TO YOUR'S BUT I AM TORN BETWEEN WHAT KINDA MUSTANG TO DO IT IN. ANY ADVICE??:confused:

thats awsome..look sgood..im doing a 408 with AFR's in a 95 now..but i am going DFI with a spider intake...wideband 02 owns me

Re: SWEET!!
 

Go FOX BODY MAN!!! Anywhere from 89-93 LX (which are the lightest). Although from 90' on they do come with air bags. So get an 89'! Can you tell I am biased? :cool:

That is SEXXXXXXY! Can't wait to hear some stats on that badboy! :D :D Did you build the engine or a shop?

§am.

Re: Re: SWEET!!
 

Try to find a 79-81 Notch. They are the lightest. They are before side impact laws so the doors weigh about 90lbs less.

sweet
 

thanks man, i'll look into 79-81 notch's, peace bro.

If you find a cheap 79-81 notch but like the later front ends, you could convert the front end with a late model nose.

Very nice engine it sounds like you have there :) The picture didnt work but that may be because Im at school

Later,
nick

The older Fox's are definitely light. Even my '79 Hatch only weighed 29xx lbs with 302 and C4.

Really nice. I just got mine back in but am having computer problems.

One thing I notice, though, is that it looks like you have deleted the air pump but routed the belt as though it were stock. You should probably reroute the belt so that it comes out from under the crank pulley up to the alternator instead of from the top of the water pump pulley to the alternator. It may look backwards, but it's not.

You can route it so it goes around the power steering pump, over the water pump, and then around the crank up to the alternator.

Can't help you with the belt size, though, since I have AC.

Re: Re: Re: SWEET!!
 

I know that the 79-81 notch's are the lightest, however i was not sure what you were going for. IMO the 88-93 fox bodies look better than the earlier ones, so if you are going for some looks you should consider that, or maybe swap a front end. but if you are going for the lightest car then the earlier model fox's is the hot ticket. also, do you plan to for the 351W to be carbuerated, or fuel injected? what is more popular with the 351??? what is better as far as performance results for the 351 (carbuerated or fuel injected)???? just curious cause i have no clue.

Thanks !!! I'll be sure to post a mpeg as soon as we get it running.

AS soon as we get it running I'll have the camera rolling. I was told the car should rival a IROC car as far as engine tone is concerned. I just hope its not TOO loud. I'm sure though its going to sound fine.

ehhh, its ok:(

Re: SWEET!!
 

Don't fret now but the cost of getting it where it is today is somewhere in the area of about $12,000. The engine alone has over $8,000 in it. I started this in November, 2001. When I started this project though all I had from the original engine were the accessory brackets. Everything else , and I mean everything is brandnew. I bought a used but running 1974 351W for $150.00; I tossed everything except the block. Hell it didn't even need to go .030 on the bore but no one sells a Eagle ESP 4340 Stroker Kit in standard bore. The Stroker kit was 1950.00, BB&T Racing has the best price hands down. The kit includes a FORGED 4" Crank , Eagle 6.250 H-beam rods, and JE pistons designed for the TW or TFS "R" heads. Bearing and rings were also included. After hunting the internet for about a month for the heads SummitRacing agreed to match prices of JD's Performance for the mech roller / O ringed assembled TFS"R" heads for 1513.00 w/free shipping( These heads sell for $1750.00 from Summit) . I also has a set of COMP CAM titanium retainers($130.00) put on them also. The heads are stock except for the light polish and bowl blending that I did myself I had the springs installed to there right height and the valves lapped also($400.00). I also prepped the block for a oil restrictor kit that Ford Motorsports sells($30.00). The block was 0.0 decked, line bored, and honed w/ torque plates. I believe I spent somewhere around 1100.00 for the block to be done. After talking it over with number of people I opted for a Lunati Solid Roller cam, its actually a Oval track cam , its suppose to be a touch softer on the ramps so as not to wear out the valve springs too fast. New springs are $330.00 , ouch. I'm told i can expect change these out once a year. The cam's specs are 290/296 advertised duration 248/258 at .050 w I/.629 E/.663 lift. Lunati's Kit was $630.00, CAM and LIFTERS only. At the time, Doug Herbert Racing sold me a set of the GOLD RACE roller rockers for $280.00 Since then they've went up to $360.00 for the set. Comp Cams newest 5/16" 8.800 pushrods($180.00) I also bought a set of TFS's Rocker stud girdle's($180.00). I've bought at least 4sets of Valve covers..the Only ones that clear the girdles are the TFS one's($120.00) I also have another set that won't fit with the girdle's on but; they were CNC'd at work and read "POWERED BY One Bad Mofo" (PRICELESS!!!) :) I'm trying to have some spacers made for them now. Moroso Oil pan $300.00. C.A.T. Main Stud girdle and Chrome Fliud Dampner($400.00). The biggest Griffin radiator Summit sells(180.00). SPEC STAGE III cover and disc ($300.00), Mcleod 11lb. Aluminium Flywheel ($380.00). I also bought a PowerMaster XS Starter($200.00) and a 140AMP Altenator ($170.00) I'm using all ARP fastners(about $200.00) HEADS,INTAKE,OILPAN,FLWHEEL, and PRESSURE PLATE. Intake is a Edelbrock 9.5 SuperVictor($240.00) and my new prized BIGGS STAGE5 950 Holley carb($680.00) Energy Suspension Engine mounts to hold it down($130.00) MSD Small base 351W distributor( $225.00) K&N 3 1/2" X 14" dropped base AIRCLEANER(120.00) All this tucks up under my new 4" Cowl Cervini hood($440.00) A 3 1/2" Dr.GAS X-pipe kit ($300.00) and 3" MAC ProDumps will do the exhaust duties. WHEW!!!!! Thats the first time I've written everything down, I'm not even sure that's everything but these are the pieces that stick out. Its a touch over 8000.00 but I know there's more in it. Hell the headers are being built as we speak for 650.00. BUT thats its. I'm still here and all the bills are still being paid.............hahaha......... We hoped to attend the FORD vs CHEVY DRAGS in Gulfport,MS. But I'll be cutting it really close. I intended to put the car on a Chassis Dyno before its ever being driven to tune the CARB and TIMING for optimal performance.

It should be quite a ride! When I started all this, all I wanted to do was to get my PONY running again................Here's a pic of the car, remember now its been sitting under a cover for 6yrs. It's going in for the paint job the week after I get it running. It's going to done EXACTLY as it was when it was brand new.

Nice car PONYONE.

Seems like a lot of hard work (or well, at least a lot of money spent :)). Don't know if I would've done a few things the way you did 'em, but that's b/c I'm just different. It really helps how you have listed everything out like that-- a perspective that most people are not willing to give. I can relate to the money issue b/c of the method of madness I am planning for my car. I figure, to get it running the way I want will run me about $9000 total. But then again, like I said, I'm going a slightly different route.
Glad you got that thing together, must really feel good. Now lock that thing up TIGHT! I don't wanna hear no "My car got stolen" posts from you!!!!! :eek: :mad:

It's running , where to from here..........
 

WOW! MAN have I forgot how I use to play............. I could get hurt playing like this. The engine is a f'ing beast . I had the exhaust hooked up today. From open headers its not as loud but not by much. Hope to post some MPEG's and sound clip's over the weekend.

that is one b.a. looking engine, looks really great, what a beast, let us know how it runs. :D :D :D :cool: