general v8 question

[srv1]

Originally posted by Crazy Horse GT
thank's srv1 appreciate it my brotha.

you know that your my left hand man!

Originally posted by srv1
hey Digital: -FOR SALE - Iraqi rifle. Never fired. Dropped once.
i had to think about that for a sec and after i figured it out, i laughed my asz off!! good one!

lol yeah when i found that one, i thought it was a good one too and had to throw that in there.

[Crazy Horse GT]

Originally posted by srv1
you know that your my left hand man!

as long as i aint gotta be your right hand man & do that nasty thing, bwahahaha, j/k.

[The Deuce]

Originally posted by this is not cbring
...........where a camaro owner spit on my "nazi car".........

That is the most intelligent Camaro owner I've heard of in a long time. Since the first Volkswagen or "peoples car" (literal translation) was built under commision of Hitler, he was totally correct.

It is no reason for him to spit on the car, and if I could stand fwd, I might have on myself, but he was correcter than he though saying that.

[PKRWUD]

You might find the labor as cheap as srv1 suggested, but don't count on it. I don't know anyone that would even consider it for less than $1500. Swapping out an entire driveline with an entirely different one is not an easy job. Don't get me wrong, you may very well find someone that will do it for $800, but plan on spending $1500. At least. That way you won't be stuck with all your parts, and not enough to get the work done if the cost is higher.

Take care,
~Chris

[Crazy Horse GT]

Originally posted by this is not cbring
i don't expect your help, but..........

for the record, i never called you a dick..........i was referring to my poor reception as the only import at knoxville dragway on test & tune night earlier this summer...........where a camaro owner spit on my "nazi car".........and a cutlass owner told me that i wasn't welcome there

wrong thread bud, i challenged you to race, that's when you called me a dick,duuuhhh. remember???? hhhuuuhhh. btw i will give you credit, you are toneing it down, i know about 3 or 4 places to get the parts you need , but i only help people who are nice.

[this is not cbring]

here is your challenge and my reply:

quote:
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Originally posted by Crazy Horse GT
man give it up, ricers include domestic cars with the same stupid body mod's , sticker's, clear taillight's etc, i live an hour away, wanna line up against a stock gt? auto -even, i will smoke you like a cheap cigar, just ask the rice boy 3000 gt i burned 2 nights ago, he tried the fly by, tell you what, i will give you a 1 mile head start! since your peak is what 1800 rpm's, i cruise at 75mph at 2200 rpm's, LET"S ROCK!, put up or shut up. bling bling. how about it rabbit boy. case closed, pm me for my phone # lets rock. your bs is starting to get on my nerves ,STFU. go away silly wabbit.
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you didn't follow very well, did you? i never claimed that i could beat anyone......i know that a 99-up should have no problem beating me

1) you want to race to race me, why would i call you long-distance? if i get out of the office early today, i don't end up buying a 68 chevelle (which seems to be falling through for me ), and i'm in the mood to put up with the import-hating bullsh!t i get at the track on test & tune night, ima run the volkswagen at knoxville dragway for the first time tonight..........warning: i run for fun, so i don't run people who are being dicks

2) in your sig, you mention k&n and flowmasters,yet claim to be "bone stock".......how do YOU define "bone stock"???

i implied that i suspected you as very capable of being a dick, but nowhere did i call you one.

[srv1]

Originally posted by PKRWUD
You might find the labor as cheap as srv1 suggested, but don't count on it. I don't know anyone that would even consider it for less than $1500. Swapping out an entire driveline with an entirely different one is not an easy job. Don't get me wrong, you may very well find someone that will do it for $800, but plan on spending $1500. At least. That way you won't be stuck with all your parts, and not enough to get the work done if the cost is higher.

Take care,
~Chris

well no offense Chris, but how hard is it to swap out a whole driveline in a 1970 vehicle? simple as pie!(assuming this isnt northern vehicle with RUST!) The hardest part would be the front brackets for the accesories for the motor. all electrical, fuel, and suspension is all basic. now if we were talking about a late model Fox 4cyl-8cyl Fuel Injection swap, then that would be alot of money to do. my figures were not low, they were average. heck, i would charge him $800 to do everything. as long as he brings ALL the parts, all i have is labor. Also you got to remember i am not on flat rate when i do it. i do it at my pace at my convience. if i was flat rate, your figure would be correct. i assume this is bolt out, bolt in procedure with some minor modifications. what i dont guarantee in that labor time is tuning of the driveline. that would be additional.

BTW, did you ever get the clutch working right?

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by srv1
well no offense Chris, but how hard is it to swap out a whole driveline in a 1970 vehicle? simple as pie!(assuming this isnt northern vehicle with RUST!) The hardest part would be the front brackets for the accesories for the motor. all electrical, fuel, and suspension is all basic. now if we were talking about a late model Fox 4cyl-8cyl Fuel Injection swap, then that would be alot of money to do. my figures were not low, they were average. heck, i would charge him $800 to do everything. as long as he brings ALL the parts, all i have is labor. Also you got to remember i am not on flat rate when i do it. i do it at my pace at my convience. if i was flat rate, your figure would be correct. i assume this is bolt out, bolt in procedure with some minor modifications. what i dont guarantee in that labor time is tuning of the driveline. that would be additional.

BTW, did you ever get the clutch working right?

I used to quote $500 for engine swaps, and always came away underpaid. The customer never has all the parts, or refuses to buy a new water pump because the old one is only six months old, but because it's been sitting dry for 4 weeks, the seals have cracked, and I get to swap the water pump after everything is done, while he says "oh, you were right".

I won't even consider an engine swap for less than $1000, and I'm cheap. I do include dialing it in. When I'm finished, the customer will drive their vehicle home.

A 1970 Tempest or LeMans, or what ever it was he's looking at is pretty routine, but you'r going to have to rebuild the front suspension too. The springs are different between the 6 and the 8, and as long as you're in there, it's silly not to do the bushings (probably will crumble as you take the a-arms out anyway). Then there's the tranny crossmember, and whichever shifter he's going to want you to install. You'll need to measure and locate a driveshaft, and hope that there isn't too much welding involved with the new rearend. The brake lines should line up fine, but you know he's going to need disks up front, and the '70 6'ers had 4w drums, without a power booster, which means new brake lines anyway.

Then, you have to ask yourself; how many miles are on this 400 from a donor goat? Is it complete? You wouldn't install a points ignition, would you? Of course not, so start checking the local yards for a Pontiac HEI. The carb is going to need a rebuild, too. The p/s will be different, and the radiator will be too small. The shocks are going to suck, too.

Then there's the exhaust.

Bro, if you want to do that for $800, God bless you.

I'm too big of a prick, and my time and tools are worth more than that. Hell, I still need to come up with another $200 for a reverse power bleeder!!!

Take care,
~Chris

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by srv1
BTW, did you ever get the clutch working right?

Yeah, today. I took the weekend off and just did stuff around the house, and went back at it today. I reverse pressure bled it with a cleaned out quart-sized oil pump can. By the time the fluid was clear up top (from the bottom), I put the cap and bellows thingy on the master, propped a 2x4 between my seat and a fully depressed clutch pedal, and just cracked the beeder for a sec. A slight puff of air, followed by a dribble, was all I gave it a chance to emit. I removed the 2x4, and pumped that pedal like Fred Flintstone taking off in his car. That was the part that just felt wrong, but you were 100% correct. Within 15 minutes, the pedal felt normal, so I measured the bearing travel, and it was just over 1/2" (specs are .460" or more). I was thrilled.

I was also kinda stupid. I've needed to pull my upper intake and reseat my air injection tubes for over a year now because of a periodic exhaust leak. I felt brave today, and pulled the upper intake. I got the injection tubes out, and discovered the #6 tube was rotting through. I tried welding uit, but didn't turn the Mig down, and put a damn hole in it. An hour later, it looks okay, but then I had to watch my Packers kick some Chicago butt.

Should be done tomorrow. besides, this gives me a chance to check all the stupid plastic vacuum lines Ford likes to use for the EGR system.

Thank you very much for your help. I had input from about 5 or 6 sources, and they really pretty much said the same thing, just in different ways. Following your advice to the T was what paid off, though. Thanks again, James!!!

Take care,
~Chris

[srv1]

Originally posted by PKRWUD
I used to quote $500 for engine swaps, and always came away underpaid. The customer never has all the parts, or refuses to buy a new water pump because the old one is only six months old, but because it's been sitting dry for 4 weeks, the seals have cracked, and I get to swap the water pump after everything is done, while he says "oh, you were right".

I won't even consider an engine swap for less than $1000, and I'm cheap. I do include dialing it in. When I'm finished, the customer will drive their vehicle home.

A 1970 Tempest or LeMans, or what ever it was he's looking at is pretty routine, but you'r going to have to rebuild the front suspension too. The springs are different between the 6 and the 8, and as long as you're in there, it's silly not to do the bushings (probably will crumble as you take the a-arms out anyway). Then there's the tranny crossmember, and whichever shifter he's going to want you to install. You'll need to measure and locate a driveshaft, and hope that there isn't too much welding involved with the new rearend. The brake lines should line up fine, but you know he's going to need disks up front, and the '70 6'ers had 4w drums, without a power booster, which means new brake lines anyway.

Then, you have to ask yourself; how many miles are on this 400 from a donor goat? Is it complete? You wouldn't install a points ignition, would you? Of course not, so start checking the local yards for a Pontiac HEI. The carb is going to need a rebuild, too. The p/s will be different, and the radiator will be too small. The shocks are going to suck, too.

Then there's the exhaust.

Bro, if you want to do that for $800, God bless you.

I'm too big of a prick, and my time and tools are worth more than that. Hell, I still need to come up with another $200 for a reverse power bleeder!!!

Take care,
~Chris

YOU ARE RIGHT! but all he wanted was the drivetrain dropped in. he never mentioned anything else. i quoted him just to put a motor, tranny and rearend in with little modifications if needed. now any ADDITIONAL time like the brake conversion, brackets and cables for the tranny and anything else is extra. if he didnt have the right parts or didnt have all of them, then this would take time and of course more dough.

i should have explained myself better. i would do it for $800 bucks still, just bolting it in and modifying it to work. I would definitaly would tell him up front what ways he could go and what he could also do. all he asked was a fair price for just installing it! so i dont think $800 is too little just to put in the drivetrain with the correct parts given.

also just to let you know, not all 6's came with drums!

[srv1]

Originally posted by PKRWUD
Yeah, today. I took the weekend off and just did stuff around the house, and went back at it today. I reverse pressure bled it with a cleaned out quart-sized oil pump can. By the time the fluid was clear up top (from the bottom), I put the cap and bellows thingy on the master, propped a 2x4 between my seat and a fully depressed clutch pedal, and just cracked the beeder for a sec. A slight puff of air, followed by a dribble, was all I gave it a chance to emit. I removed the 2x4, and pumped that pedal like Fred Flintstone taking off in his car. That was the part that just felt wrong, but you were 100% correct. Within 15 minutes, the pedal felt normal, so I measured the bearing travel, and it was just over 1/2" (specs are .460" or more). I was thrilled.

I was also kinda stupid. I've needed to pull my upper intake and reseat my air injection tubes for over a year now because of a periodic exhaust leak. I felt brave today, and pulled the upper intake. I got the injection tubes out, and discovered the #6 tube was rotting through. I tried welding uit, but didn't turn the Mig down, and put a damn hole in it. An hour later, it looks okay, but then I had to watch my Packers kick some Chicago butt.

Should be done tomorrow. besides, this gives me a chance to check all the stupid plastic vacuum lines Ford likes to use for the EGR system.

Thank you very much for your help. I had input from about 5 or 6 sources, and they really pretty much said the same thing, just in different ways. Following your advice to the T was what paid off, though. Thanks again, James!!!

Take care,
~Chris

That is great you made your own tool! saves money! you would think the Fred Flinstone way would be wrong, but it works.

Is your AIR tubes in the manifold or the head? Did you have a hard time getting the nut out? I have tried welding them also, but welded shut!!! you cant do that their, and neither can i technically, but who is going to prove it? we dont have sniffers here except the boroughs and NYC. the ones that are the pain are the 2.8's Camaros and Caprices body styles. The Olds blocks can be too, but so far knock on wood for them!

I'm glad that my advice worked for you. One hand washes the other.

[PKRWUD]

edit

[PKRWUD]

I get it.

I used to bid jobs that way too, but it seemed like no matter how clear I made things up front, they always expected more for the money, so i just found it easier to bid high, and do the work necessary.

i must admit, though, if I'd taken Spanish in high school instead of "let's cut class and go to In-N-Out Burger", I would probably have had better luck with most of my prior problem customers.

[PKRWUD]

The air tubes go into the head, just below the upper intake. After you suggested it, I took my camera out to the garage, and took a bunch of pics. I'll show you what I mean in a few. (BTW, I just used small pipe plugs in my Olds heads). I called Ford to see if they could suggest where I could find another one, and to my surprise, they said they could get one, but it would have to be ordered. They only want $106 for it, too! Man, I almost fell down when he told me that.

Today was the first real test. It drove great, and felt so much snappier than it was. I can't tell if it's because the clutch was slipping, or because I cleaned my injectors.

The pedal is better than it's ever been. I have at least 4-5 inches from the floor before the clutch engages.

Thanks again. This really helped me when I needed it, and I do appreciate it. You just may get a Christmas card this year!

Thanks Bro.

Take care,
~Chris