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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 157
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![]() What are the best brand of sub frame connectors for a 91GT Conv that you can buy?
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#2 |
College Stanger
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Aiken,south carolina, usa
Posts: 1,097
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![]() I think Steeda and Kenny brown Sub frames are both good.
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2003 Sonic Blue Cobra |
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#3 |
Conservative Individualist
Join Date: May 1997
Location: Wherever I need to be
Posts: 7,487
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![]() I have Global-West (tubular) subframe connectors.
Excellent quality and recommended, but in fact, there are many good brands around, including KB. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Raynham, Ma, USA
Posts: 189
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![]() I have the same question for a 95 GT. I don't see why it would be different so I'm just gonna go with the recommendations in here, thanks guys.
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95 Red Mustang GT Pro 5.0, MAC fenderwall cold air induction kit, BBK Off-Road H-pipe with Magnaflow cat-back system Mostly stock(looking to modify) Rice Haters Club Member #63 |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: McSherrystown PA (near Gettysburg)
Posts: 26
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![]() I hear Maximum Motorsports make full length subframes and they are supposed to be really good.
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 536
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![]() I've got the MM full length subs with seat braces. If I got another stang, I'd buy the same ones again without a doubt. But as mentioned before, there are many good brands out there. I mean really, think about it.....How hard can it be to make good subframe connectors? It's just metal that connects two other pieces of metal with two slight bends in them...
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Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!! |
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#7 |
dude5l
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 603
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![]() There not hard to make. I made my own, and I'm an idiot!
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Good luck! Brad R. 1992 L.X. 5.0 coupe MODS: A few little bolt ons ![]() New Best time ...11.60 @ 128 mph @ 2000+ ft altitude. Rice Haters Club member #39 Users rides #2542 |
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#8 | |
GOT TORQUE ????
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: New Hudson, Michigan, USA
Posts: 689
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![]() Quote:
The only problem you might run into is installation might be more expensive, since these come with more parts to weld up. The shop that did mine charged $150. It took two guys, two hours, so actually that price isn't too bad. He normally charges around $75 to install standard length subframes.
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1991 GT, AOD, Moroso Cold Air, 3.73s, Pulleys, H-pipe, MAC Pro-Dumps, FMS c-springs, and KYBs, A/c delete, 190 LPH fuel pump, 3-row radiator, Maximum Motorsports full length subframes 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada(wife's car) 2005 Ford Taurus SEL (company ride) GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS !!!! |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 105
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![]() I'll put in a plug for the MM full length connectors. I have their Road & Track kit on my 91 vert. and it amazes me every time I drive my car.
There's much more welding room on the MM pieces as opposed to tubular-style connectors because these sit flush against the entire frame rail. While some might consider it overkill, the vert. needs all the support it can get in the "chassis-stiffening" department, so I welded those bad boys in everywhere it touched the chassis. Installation is more complicated on a vert. tho with the full length connectors because you need to clearance the factory stiffening braces. When you do it, I would recommend keeping the factory braces and just grinding the flanges down where it interferes with the connector. Any full length connector will get the job done for you, I only push for the MM products because they rock! Everything they produce is well-engineered, fits perfectly, and is thoroughly supported... if you decide to go with MM, ask for John Fabry when placing your order, he'll hook you up. -John
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1991 GT Vert- Black/Black/Black Exhaust, Tremec, Tri-Ax, Centerforce Dual Friction, 3.73's, Rear Seat Delete MM Road & Track Kit PBR 5-Lug Brakes Cobra R's w/ 255 Rubber Rice Hater's Club #60 |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 334
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![]() The MM braces are about the best, but I went one step better. Tear out your interior and bring it to a chassis shop. Have them cut the floor and install 2x3 steel right onto your subframe. It creates a solid frame that follows the path that the real frame would (if it had one). They can weld in seat braces too. It cost me $195 to have that done. That was material and labor.
TwiLighTBluEGT where abouts in MA are you? The shop I use is in Hanson, called Tube Chassis Designz. They have been written up in all kinds of magazines for their work. Last edited by Phantom5oh; 08-12-2002 at 09:36 AM.. |
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