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03-03-2004, 06:00 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Norman, Oklahoma
Posts: 2
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High Mileage 93 Cobra Help
Hey all. I just signed up today, so I hope no one minds me getting some of these questions out and off my chest.
I've got a 93 Cobra with 185,000 miles. I know, I know, that's quite a few...but what fun is leaving a car to sit and gather dust. Besides, I'm not what you would call "loaded." With that in mind, I've been facing the fact that I may be replacing/rebuilding the engine soon. I've never done anything internally to the motor, but I can perform an engine swap if needed. My problem is that I think I'm burning oil. The reason I "think" that is that I can smell it while I'm driving. I have a small oil leak somewhere around the front oil pan seal, but I don't think that is the source of the burnt oil smell. I'm getting tired of constantly checking my oil guage only to see it (most of the time) on the very last hash mark above Zero I haven't had any (noticeable) problems with the coolant system, so I don't think I've got bad heads/head gaskets. I originally thought I may have some oil buildup on the valves because I would only see a small plume of smoke exit the exhaust after idleing, then reving a little. So, I'd like to know... 1) Is there anything I can do to prolong the life of the engine? 2) Would it be better to rebuild now, or when/if it breaks down for good? 3) Would it be better to get a new crate motor? If so, where's a good place to get one and what's a decent price? If your thoughts are anything like my friends' (and in my dreams), then you're probably thinking..."Get a new, high end motor." Unfortunately, my goal is to retain driveability, endurance (more than performance), and if possible, retain as much of the "originality" of the car as possible. One last question (sorry for the marathon)...Has anyone had a drivers seat repaired? Mine is distorted (from pushing against the back, trying to get my wallet out...that sort of thing). Did you remove the apholstery? Did you have it welded, then re-covered? Thanks for your help! It's been a long time since I've talked to anyone about mustangs, and in the past, it was all performance, not maintenance
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I'm real nice 'till you piss me off...so don't piss me off! |
03-04-2004, 02:44 PM | #2 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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I'd just buy a D.S.S short block, have the heads worked. new oil pump, etc and put it back together.
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
03-04-2004, 05:25 PM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The South, USA
Posts: 143
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I'm no expert, but it would seem to me that the engine would have more value if you took care of things before a serious problem occurs, since it may be able to be refurbished/rebuilt and resold. I don't know if you wait until it dies if it can be saved in that manner without a lot more expense.
It doesn't cost anything to talk to an engine refurbisher in your area. See what he tells you about the value of choices. In fact, talk to a few. Just remember that a consensus doesn't make them right...
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------------------------------ Big Band John 1996 Cobra Convertible 1966 Mustang Coupe Future Owner - 2006 Mustang :-) |
03-04-2004, 06:01 PM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Norman, Oklahoma
Posts: 2
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Thanks for the insight! I'll get around to the local engine shops and ask around. Heck, they might (accidently) give me a free diagnosis, and it may be something I can fix myself...who knows!
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I'm real nice 'till you piss me off...so don't piss me off! |
03-04-2004, 11:40 PM | #5 |
Mustangs
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,938
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If you let your engine idle and then when you give it throttle and there's smoke, it's probably worn valve guides. If it starts to smoke under load (like for example up hills) it's more likely piston rings. Also try putting in a thicker weight oil like 15w40 or 25W50, it will be thicker so it will take up clearances better (better oil pressure) and it doesn't leak near as fast - but that's only a temporary solution. It's probably worth your time to save up and buy an assembled long block and drive this engine till it starts to knock. Your engine with that mileage will more than likely need to be fully machined and rebuilt with most everything replaced anyway. Anything you do to this engine may only last temporarily and band aid the engine for a little while.
Good luck on whatever you decide.
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2005 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300-R 1980 Ford Thunderbird - 255 V8 ported heads, 5.0L ported stock headers, O.R. H-pipe and Flowmaster 2-chambers, dual roller timing chain hi-po Mack Truck hood emblem 1985 Mustang GT 5.0L T5, F-303, GT40p, headers, off-road h, flowmasters, MSD stuff, etc. Sold 02/06/04 1989 Mustang GT ET: 13.304@102.29 mph (5-24-03) Sold - 1998 Mustang Cobra coupe, 1/4 mile - street tires: 13.843@103.41 (bone stock) |
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