Ignorant, ignorant people...

Well hello all. It's been over a year since I last posted on this board. I still see some of the same people on here as I did then, lol.

Anyways, I have kinda a techincal question to go along with my story.

I was talking to someone about my car, and I told him what it ran(11.21/1.53/121 - don't worry I'm gonna update profile and signature). Well he went into this whole line of what was wrong with my combo, I tried to steer him to NMRA's website so he could see that guys with my similar combo have run as fast as 10.40s(My car was built over last winter to run Real Street but I was unable to attend any races) - he wouldn't have any of it, and said my head(twisted wedge) itntake(Edl Perf. 5.0) and cam(stock) combo were way mismatched. The heads, which were milled by Fox Lake Power Products, were way too misaligned with the lower intake ports, thus causing major turbulence and nitrous explosions(So he said). Thus he came to the conclusion I wasn't running spray or I would've blown it up.

So my question - how many of you have come across this kind of ignorance? I really though everyone knew the potential of basic induction mods combined with a power adder can lead to some pretty quick stangs. Apparently not. I could not do anything to change this guy's mind. Just wondering what everyone else has experienced.

Also, Can anyone offer any experience with milling heads, and the need to mill the intake on the 5.0?? I have never heard of the need to do so unless a radical head/intake combo is used or the heads have been milled drastically. I'm going to post that question in tech too.

[1969Mach1]

Havn't had that much ignorance but I had a guy at school tell me his Accord (Older Model) could beat my stang cause I only have a 4 speed and it doesn't have a high top load. I wasn't there at the time but a buddies just laughed at him.

There is no such thing as a stupid question on stupid people.

[tireburner163]

Ok there is this IDIOT at school, who like to act like he knows alot about cars, when he don't know jack. He's smashed up like 7 cars.

incident #1)One day his 66 Mustang(smashed it after 3 months) was making a loud squealing noise(belt).

"Hey what do you think that is"
"Muffler bearings"
"Yea that's what I thought it was too"

incident #2)He said the "317" in he 86 GT(smashed after 2 1/2 months) would waste my dad's 69 F-100

incident #3)He said his dad's 97 V-6, auto Chevy truck(full size) would waste my brothers GT(5-speed) because I would "have to shift." (I couldn't resist that one, but I nearly had to beat the crap out of him to get my 100 bucks)

[PKRWUD]

There needs to be a law against stupidity.

Take care,
-Chris

[Rev]

My machine shop guru says you can angle mill heads up to .050" without anything needing to be done to the intake manifold. He's an old drag racer with lots of experience, so I believe him.

Rev

[Unit 5302]

Actually, I have heard of the Edelbrock Performer not matching up well with the TFS TW heads. I've seen information stating the Edelbrock parts don't match up well to other companies parts.

Some people go overboard on their beliefs/hearsay.

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by Unit 5302
Some people go overboard on their beliefs/hearsay.

Amen! (wait, do my Mac beliefs count? )

er, uhm, okay, guilty.

Take care,
-Chris

[Rev]

For this once Unit, I hope to hades you're wrong. I'm sitting here with my brand new pocket ported TFTW heads here in the computer room with me that I've been drooling over for about a month now waiting for deer season to end in Texas so I'll have weekend time to install them. I do have an Edelbrock performer dual plane carb manifold. It has done fine with the 351W heads for 5 yrs. now. I'll just have to cross my fingers on the installation, hoping that it seals OK. I just hate a vacuum leak, especially those hard to find ones. Anyone else heard of problems with Edelbrock manifold/TFTW inconsistancies?

Rev

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by Rev
I just hate a vacuum leak, especially those hard to find ones. Anyone else heard of problems with Edelbrock manifold/TFTW inconsistancies?

Rev

I haven't heard that, but that doesn't mean it's not sometimes true. I have posted, in the past, a pretty easy way to determine whether or not you have an internal vacuum leak. It saves alot of time and confusion. If you like, I'll post it here for your future reference.

Take care,
-Chris

[Rev]

PKERWUD, I'm thinking of those intake lesks down at the bottom of the ports into the lifter valley. Those are tough to find for me. I had one once that drove me ugh...something...crazy. If you have a good way to find those, please let me know. Haven't had to go into that for a long time, but the last time was a bugger.

Rev

[PKRWUD]

Originally posted by Rev
PKERWUD, I'm thinking of those intake lesks down at the bottom of the ports into the lifter valley. Those are tough to find for me. I had one once that drove me ugh...something...crazy. If you have a good way to find those, please let me know. Haven't had to go into that for a long time, but the last time was a bugger.

Rev

Those are exactly the ones I'm referring to. Here's the routine:

1) Hook up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold.
2) Fully close the carburetor throttle plates by turning out the idle screw.
3) Plug up the PCV valve opening.
4) Disconnect and plug up any vacuum hoses attached directly to the intake manifold.
5) Disconnect the battery feed wire to the coil to prevent the engine starting.
6) Crank the engine and observe the vacuum gauge. From 3" to 7" of vacuum (at a minimum of 250 cranking rpm) is normal. A defective intake manifold gasket will give, in most cases, a zero vacuum reading.

Take care,
-Chris

[Rev]

Thanks, PKRWUD, that makes sense to me. Does more cam overlap make lower cranking vacuum? I would assume that it does. Do you remove spark plugs to increase cranking RPM? Seems that would help make a more normal vacuum. Again, thanks for that input.

Rev

[PKRWUD]

Cam overlap can affect your readings, but it should still be between 3" and 7". Plugs in or out shouldn't affect the readings either if it's bad. I leave them in. If you feel like pulling them, go for it, but for a quick test, it's not necessary. Bottom line, if you suspect the intake gasket of not sealing, run this test and you'll know for sure. If you get a reading of 3" or higher, the gasket is fine and the problem lies elsewhere. I've wasted an afternoon before removing and reinstalling an intake because I thought the gasket failed, or slipped, only to discover it was fine. I was thrilled when I discovered this time saving test!!! I guess it comes with age. Time saving tips seem to mean more to me the older I get!

Take care,
-Chris

[Rev]

Thanks again Chris. I learn a little something as time moves along as it has been for awhile now.

Rev