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#1 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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![]() Ok I'm gonna put two 12" AudioBahn subs in my car. I need help designing a box for the back hatch. Someone here must have subs in a hatch back. What are the demntions on your box.
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
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#2 |
HEY I CAN SET A NAME NOW!
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,556
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![]() A box doesn't depend on your vehicle, it depends on your subs. Making a "Perfect" sub box is very hard! Like professional hard. You need to get how many squar feet cubed your box has to be and go from there, and you have to have the box a special shape. Try looking on the internet they may have some dimensions. It may be alot easier and probably cheaper in the end to get someone to make one for you professionally. You'll most likely get better sound qualitly out of it. But if you have your heart set on trying it, it can be pretty cool thing to do. =)
Enjoy! And keep pumpin' that bass! ![]()
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1969 Mustang Mach 1**Sold** ![]() 351-4V Windsor, 4 Speed MACH 1 - Moving At The Speed Of Sound. 1979 Mustang Indianapolis 500 Pace Car **For Sale - Email me for Info** 302-2V, 3-Speed Auto One of 2,106 made One of 405 sent to Canada. Yes those are caution lights, and No you can't pass me when there on. ![]() ![]() Ricer Hater's Club - Member #4 |
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#3 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 1,643
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![]() You want a sealed box, ported box or bandpass? Hoiw much air space do each of those subs need. You should Also fire the sound into the back glass. And let it come back to the front of the car. IT will sound killer. Just get me what specs i need on the speakers (air space) and the width of the hatch in the most narrow part (between shock mounts) the height at the back of the hatch (between the hatch and floor) and I wil lsee what I can come up with. I've done a few box designs. They came out real good and I've built a few too.
Brad
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1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator |
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#4 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
|
![]() Ok the hatch is 3' 1" at it's narrowest point, and just below the top of the back seat is 14". I want the box to slop off at a angle so that the subs will hit off the back glass. I want to keep SOME space in the hatch area, so I was only gonna make the box 16" thick. Each sub needs a min. air space of 1 cubic foot and the max. is 2 cubic feet per sub. I want a sealed box because I really don't have the room for a ported box and a bandpass is out of the question. Heres a link with the specs on the subs I want.
http://www.audiobahninc.com/prod/woofers/AWC12.htm Or course these subs would ROCK, unfortunly I can't afford them(needless to say my ear drums are glad I'm poor ![]() http://www.audiobahninc.com/prod/woofers/AWT12.htm
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide Last edited by tireburner163; 12-29-2001 at 02:20 AM.. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: middleburg, fl, usa
Posts: 1,134
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![]() Those subs sound best in 1.5 cu ft sealed.
Just get the dimensions you have and multiply them Height x width x depth and remember to take the size of the wood that you are working with out of the equation. Divide that by 1728 and that will give you your cu ft. If you want you can even take out the size of the sub but it is not necessary. Just keep working with it until you get your box size right. Tip: Do not build it in multiple of each other, example 10x 10x 20 or 7 x 14 or 6 x 12. Try to stay away from that. Good luck. If you have anymore questions let me know.
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James Cox RHC Member #44 nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX Dart iron eagle block, 4340 28oz 347 crank, 4340 h-beam rods, probe ultra light pistons canfield heads “race ported by Brent Frazier”, solid roller cam and lifters “custom grind”, kooks 1 7/8" race headers, and much more. Engine built by Brent Frazier. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kelowna BC, Canada
Posts: 82
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![]() Building a subwoofer box isn't all that hard. I've built about 7 of them since I was 16.
The first piece of advice I have for you is to build the box to fit the subwoofer first, car second. Use 3/4" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) for your wood. Screw and glue the box together. Isolate the 2 subwoofers(put a divider in the box) I'd recomend a sealed box for a beginner (they're very forgiveing in design) Seal the box as air-tight as possible(I always silicone mine) Remember to use INNER box dimensions to calculate your box volume. Shape in a sealed box really isn't important, but volume is. Build your box as close to the manufacturers specs for volume as possible. Don't subtract the displacement of the subwoofer while calculateing your box volume like I believe Five0 is telling you. The manufacturer has already taken this into consideration when suggesting a box volume. It probably wouldn't make a difference anyway (like Five0 stated). Good luck! |
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