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Taking Estimates...
Well Im going to the track this saturday. Anyone have estimates as to what my car will run? Im hoping for a tenth or two more, but I'm not going to hope for anything more then some more 12.5's.
2 of my friends are going to run their cars also, I'll list their mods and you guys can take cracks at the ET's. #1 - MY Car - TFS TW Heads, Holley Intake, 70mm TB, shorty headers, E-303 Cam, 3.73 gears, on 26x10 slicks. Lightened #2 -88 Notch- TFS TW Heads, RPM Intake, 70mm TB, Longtubes, .540lift 230 duration cam, 3.73 gears, 11:1 compression, on 26x8 slicks w/ lowering springs. Full weight #3 -89 Notch- Lightly Ported TFS TW Heads, Custom Cam, Vic Jr Intake, 750 carb, Longtubes, 4.10 gears, lightened, some accesories removed. ON 26x10 ET Streets. Skyler |
You didn't mention your rr's. Are they in?
Take care, -Chris |
Nevermind. I didn't see your sig.
Take care, -Chris |
My guesses....
#1 = 12.3 @ 109 #2 = 12.8 @106 #3 = 12.1 @ 111 This was based on what your car ran before. I'm curious to see what all the extra work you did was worth. |
#1 12.00@112mph
#2 11.90@115mph #3 11.50@118mph |
#1 12.20@110
#2 11.80@115 #3 11.70@116 |
Havnt put the rockers on yet... Got my motor all together to that point. I havnt installed rockers before, I was lookin for an article online how to do it.. any suggestions?
Skyler |
As far as your rockers, try it this way:
1) Install one rocker arm at a time by inserting the 5/16" bolt through the top of the rocker arm, MAKING SURE THAT THE FLAT SIDE OF THE FULCRUM IS FACING THE BOLT HEAD. After this is done, slide the pedestal onto the bolt with the curved area of the saddle contacting the rounded side of the fulcrum. Next, slide the guide channel onto the bolt with the raised edge facing up toward the rocker arm, then loosely thread the bolt into the head, while making sure that the pedestal is in the channel and the saddle is in the correct location on the fulcrum. Install all 16, and snug down the bolts by hand. 2) Rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke. 3) Check the rotor in the distributor, and verify that it is pointing at the #1 wire on the cap. If it's not, rotate the engine 360 degrees. 4) With a 1/4" drive ratchet, tighten the following rockers until you can no longer rotate the pushrod: Cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, Cylinder #3 exhaust, Cylinder #4 intake, Cylinder #7 exhaust, Cylinder #8 intake. 5) Now torque each of those to 20 ft.lbs. 6) Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so the balancer reads TDC again. 7) With a 1/4" ratchet, tighten these rockers (again, to zero lash): Cylinder #3 intake, Cylinder #2 exhaust, Cylinder #7 intake, Cylinder #6 exhaust. 8) Now torque each of those to 20 ft.lbs. 9) Rotate the engine 90 degrees, and with the ratchet, tighten to zero lash on these rockers: Cylinder #2 intake Cylinder #4 exhaust Cylinder #5 intake and exhaust Cylinder #6 intake Cylinder #8 exhaust 10) Now torque each of those to 20 ft.lbs. ***If it takes more than a full turn to reach 20 ft.lbs. torque, after you have reached zero lash, you're gonna need shims. Take care, -Chris |
****, sounds kinda complicated, Im gonna have to take my time on this.
Skyler |
C'mon, Sky, those are the easy instructions! It's not that tough. I know you can do it!
:) Take care, -Chris |
Sky, do your TFS heads use stud mount or pedestal mount rockers? Those instructions are for the pedestal ones, which TFS stopped making a few years ago due to problems with the valvetrain geometry.
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I have stud mount.
Skyler |
Fine.
1) Install all 16, and snug down the nuts by hand. 2) Rotate the engine until the balancer reads TDC on the compression stroke. 3) Check the rotor in the distributor, and verify that it is pointing at the #1 wire on the cap. If it's not, rotate the engine 360 degrees. 4) With a 1/4" drive ratchet, tighten the following rockers until you can no longer rotate the pushrod: Cylinder #1 intake and exhaust, Cylinder #3 exhaust, Cylinder #4 intake, Cylinder #7 exhaust, Cylinder #8 intake. 5) Now tighten each of those an additional 3/4 turn beyond zero lash. 6) Rotate the engine 360 degrees, so the balancer reads TDC again. 7) With a 1/4" ratchet, tighten these rockers (again, to zero lash): Cylinder #3 intake, Cylinder #2 exhaust, Cylinder #7 intake, Cylinder #6 exhaust. 8) Now tighten each of those an additional 3/4 turn beyond zero lash. 9) Rotate the engine 90 degrees, and with the ratchet, tighten to zero lash on these rockers: Cylinder #2 intake Cylinder #4 exhaust Cylinder #5 intake and exhaust Cylinder #6 intake Cylinder #8 exhaust 10) Now tighten each of those an additional 3/4 turn beyond zero lash. Take care, -Chris |
I don't mean to be a pain Chris, but I don't understand the torque to 20 ft.lbs. and shim part for stud mounts. I've always adjusted stud mounts by tightening the rocker to 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn past zero lash, then use an an allen wrench to lock them down. :confused:
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you're not a pain, you're right.
I had edited it for bolts, and never retyped it after learning Sky's were newer heads. my bad thanks for being gentle with me. :) i'll edit again Take care, -Chris |
all better.
Take care, -Chris |
Quote:
BTW, how's the sprint car doing this season? |
After 6 races, we're 3rd in the points. We've had some lousy luck, but the car is fast, so we're still in there. We should be in 2nd after the next race.
Thanks for asking! Take care, -Chris |
Zero lash is when its tight?
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zero lash is when the pushrod can no longer be moved up and down at all. It's easiest to spin it between your thumb and middle finger while you're tightening. As soon as you can't spin it anymore, you're close. You want to be right at that fine point between being able to spin it, and not being able to. That is zero lash.
Take care, -Chris |
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