don't laugh!
 

Ok... ok... so I did one of the dumbest things you can do. I let my mustang run out of gas coming home one night from band practice. I have a 45 minute drive and I thought I could make it home. Well it stalled right when I pulled up to the gas pump. It's a '97 Mustang GT and now everywhere I go the "Check Engine" light is on and it won't go out. I figured maybe it would go out once I got gas running through the engine again, but it's been a day or two and the light is still on. Has anyone else had this problem? Did I burn up a sensor?

I think that the fuel injection cars are made so that when u run out of gas, the check engine light comes so so that u have to go to the dealer to have it looked at.

http://www.westsidemustangs.com/foru...s/rotflmao.gif http://www.westsidemustangs.com/foru.../thatfunny.gif http://www.westsidemustangs.com/foru...les/stupid.gif

OK OK OK... I'll stop now. I just had to rub it in a little more :D.
I have never heard of what Kasper said is true :rolleyes: . Clear the codes on the computer. This is how to do it if you don't know.... Disconnect your battery for 30 mins. Turn your head lights on. With the head light switch on, this will drain any stored power in the cars electrical system. Reconnect the battery and the check engine light "should" be gone. :D

I would suggest checking the codes first before you clear them. But thats just me.

Caymon

Ok, so how do I check the codes first?

Before you do any checking of codes or disconnecting the battery, get off your seat, go out to your car, pop open the gas door and check to see if your gas cap is completely tight. Vehicles with OBDII diagnostic capabilities ('96+ mustangs) monitor Evaporative System Pressure/Vacuum and control it. If you cap is loose it well put on the check engine light. Since you just filled up, then the light came on, that to me is the most likely answer. Even having the cap a little bit loose with cause a System leak.
Keep us posted.

...actually the check engine light kicked on about a quarter mile before it stalled out... just as the engine started sputtering cause it wasn't getting enough gas... it flashed on and off for a few seconds then stayed on and it hasn't gone out yet...

Check the codes, It may be a whole differant problem, just happened all at once.

Well what do ya know. I just went to get dinner a little while ago and noticed when I was almost home that the light finally went out! Nevermind guys... lol, but thanks for all the tips and advice. I appreciate it!

oh....must have detected a misfire from lack of fuel, but that's odd it just went out. oh well....hooray, no more light :D

I know your problem was allready fixed.. but I was kinda curiose to find out what it was. Because my check engine light was coming on when I first bought my car also. I took it in, and they said it was a faulty ignition (that someone with them ugly huge key chains had let it hang from it for too long) and they fixed it.. (for 390 bucks) the check engine light is off, but my check oil light is on now. Its not low, I've allready checked and had it changed, tho it didn't need it. If anyone's got any useful information... I would really appreciate it! :D Seems I don't really wanna spend 400 more bucks.

OBD I & OBDII
 

lil drummer boy.......My understanfing of the OBD system is that it will turn on the Check Engine Light when it has encountered an Emissions Error. Your "sucking the bottom" of your tank created an emission error so the ChecK Engine Light popped on. The OBD will turn the light off once you have made three (or 4, I can't remember) complete engine cycles (Starting the car..driving until the engine reached Normal Op Temp. and then off). The gas cap not being tightened will cause a similiar error.

I had an Exploder that did it frequently (to the EX..I never go below a 1/4 tank unless it is once a month for a complete run on the tank to the "Low Fuel".....)

Glad things worked out!

SmokeDatRicer<<< You Sir may have a wiring issue....I have a 2003 that encountered, after engine seating, a low oil level....but the Oil Light did not come on.... This idiot light is usually reserved for an oil PRESSUE issue. Oil Pump may not be getting the correct signals. You can go to any reputable ASE certified shop that can pull the codes and they can tell you where to go from there. If they are good, they will go to "bat" for you as a middleman with the Dealership. You DO NOT have to take it to the dealer. It will cost around $70.00 to get the codes pulled, or you can try to figure it out yourself. That is up to you. I DO NOT recommend your "speedy" oil change places, regardless of the Franchise. I have located a reputable shop that can perform warranty work and extended warranty work, as well as your usuual run-of-the-mill tech problems. IMO my auto tech is up there with my Primary Care Physician.

Good Luck!
Jenn

Wow thanks for the tip! ...and just for the record, my keychain only has my ignition key, two other keys, my drum key and a bottle opener on it. Not that heavy :D

yea, i was kinda wonderin bout the wiring issue.. dont wanna accept it tho! thanks for the info jenn, sounds like you know alot, and just because you seem nice, you can call me madam;) lol. sorry bout that drummer boy, didn't mean to attack you. i wasn't trying anyways. thanks again!

Yes Madam......SmokeDatRicer
 

Yes Ma'am I know enough to get myself into trouble..or keep me out of trouble..Haven't decided yet........and good luck with your Stang!

Jenn

Thankyou very much, and right back at ya. I wouldn't mind having some of that knowledge there!:D

Knowledge is acquired...
 

SmokeDatRicer ma'am...although my father was a machinist and an aerospace engineer, much of my "knowledge"... (lol) is acquired through reading. I suggest to most folks regardless of age or sex to get an up-to-date manual for their vehicle. Even the most seasoned mechanics need reference books.

Second...read, read, read and then practicle application.

So never fear..you too can become a nerd, if you just try...LOL

Jenn